P.S. Forgot to mention that you and then separate the seeds from the grit with a kitchen strainer.
On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Hugh Thomas <hughthoma...@gmail.com> wrote: > Try a rock tumbler. This is a small rotary drum that is rubber lined. You > can add the seed plus a grit, say silicon carbide or sand. Basically, the > thing turns and the seeds will wear away in time. Might only take a few > minutes or may take a day or two. I'm thinking the 120/220 grit would work > well. http://geology.com/rock-tumbler/rock-tumblers.shtml > > On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 11:05 AM, Ian Alexander Merwin <i...@cornell.edu> > wrote: > >> Lee- >> We used to germinate thousands of apple seeds each year to use in our >> replant disease soil bioassays. Our protocol was to collect the seeds from >> apples that had been in cold storage for a month or so; rinse them in a 10% >> clorox solution; then dust them with captan or a similar fungicide; then >> line them out in trays of moist peat moss or vermiculite. We could >> germinate several hundred seeds per 12 by 24 inch tray, planting them about >> 1 inch deep in parallel seed lines about 2 inches apart. After several >> months in a 40 degree F refrigerator the healthy seeds would germinate and >> sprout. We would transplant them into 4 inch pots with soft tweezers, when >> they had 2 to 4 true leaves (not counting the cotyledons). You could also >> group the resultant seedlings by their probable chill unit requirements, >> assuming that those germinating first had lower chill requirements. Hope >> this is helpful! >> >> By the way Lee, those cider apple trees that I got from you on Bud.9 >> rootstocks about 20 years ago are all still growing and producing well in >> my home orchard! Several of them (Kingston Black, Stoke’s Red, Magog >> Redstreak, White Jersey, etc.) have provided a lot of useful budwood for >> local nurseries to propagate those varieties, which has been a great help >> to craft cider-makers. Thanks! >> Cheers >> Ian >> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >> Ian & Jackie Merwin >> Black Diamond Farm, LLC >> 4675 East Seneca Road >> Trumansburg, NY, USA, 14886 >> E-mail: i...@cornell.edu >> Website: www.incredapple.com >> >> >> >> >> On Jan 05, 2015, at 11:27 AM, lee elliott <pippm...@yahoo.com> wrote: >> >> Anyone know an easy way to excise malus seeds, in my efforts to breed >> next generations of my Honey Crisp crosses I always have about half of my >> collected seeds are excised (split) and embryo are easy to remove. >> (germination rate of embryos removed from seed coat are much higher, close >> to 90% while unexcised seeds is about 15%) The best way so far is to soak >> the seed(after statification) and drag the seed gently accross a piece of >> sandpaper, rubbing the side of the seed where the hilum is located, then >> prying it apart with fingernails. this a very slow tedious procedure and >> may even contaminate the embryo. With hundreds of seed to excise and poor >> eyesight this is a most daunting task. I have googled this but nothing >> comes up, any ideas? Lee Elliott, Cider Hill Nursery, Winchester, Illinois >> >> _______________________________________________ >> apple-crop mailing list >> apple-crop@virtualorchard.net >> http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> apple-crop mailing list >> apple-crop@virtualorchard.net >> http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop >> >> >
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