The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 234 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Fart Sensors Re: Fart Sensors Re: Fart Sensors Re: Fart Sensors Advice Wanted - E30 Rear Hub Removal Re: Advice Wanted - E30 Rear Hub Removal Re: "Catalyst Damage" code from Check Engine Light 2002 M Coupe for sale (Sapphire Black Metallic) **update** Re: 2002 M Coupe for sale (Sapphire Black Metallic) 2002 M5 rims & tires for sale For sale: 2004 X5 rims Re: <E36> Turn the key and the (ABS and ASC) light braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions body shop in LA, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 16:00:48 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Karl Zemlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Fart Sensors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Depends how close it is positioned to the exhaust manifold. Thoug odorless in natural form, sensing is made easier when the gas is scented. Rofl. Karl Zemlin wrote: >I guess the next question is whether it's better to have a fart sensor with >a heater, or one that gets heat from the system it is installed in. > >[Beavis&ButtheadLaugh] he said "fart sensor" [/Beavis&ButtheadLaugh] > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 11:56:18 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Fart Sensors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Decades ago a friend of mine wanted to develop a bathroom exhaust fan that is triggered by the detection of gas. It would have a recorded voice that would proclaim, "WARNING! GAS DETECTED!" And then the fan would kick in. You can only imagine the marketing that would accompany such a product. :^) On an automotive note, I recall reading about a detector in the HVAC system of some Mercedes Benz automobiles. When it detects unpleasant smells, it switches the system to recirculate. I always wondered how it knew that the unpleasant smells were coming from OUTSIDE the car? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 20:06:22 -0700 >From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: Fart Sensors >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Kindergarten humor, maybe. But seriously, there is such a thing. >Methane sensors are used with >natural gas powered engines. >Happy Moon in Taurus, no bull. Lol. >Barry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 18:13:10 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Fart Sensors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, How about a system that drops oxygen masks from the overhead panel? "Oxygen will be flowing to the mask even if the bag does not inflate..." -Jay ************** > On an automotive note, I recall reading about a detector in the HVAC system > of some Mercedes Benz automobiles. When it detects unpleasant smells, it > switches the system to recirculate. I always wondered how it knew that the > unpleasant smells were coming from OUTSIDE the car? > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 17:49:05 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Fart Sensors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <SNIP> On an automotive note, I recall reading about a detector in the HVAC system of some Mercedes Benz automobiles. When it detects unpleasant smells, it switches the system to recirculate. I always wondered how it knew that the unpleasant smells were coming from OUTSIDE the car? <SNIP> The E-46 Automatic Climate control does this also, I don't think it matters where the offensive odor is coming from. Farts smell just as bad in that car as in others. Regards Jamie Howton ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 17:49:49 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Advice Wanted - E30 Rear Hub Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm attempting to replace the rear wheel bearings on my '90 325i. The axle shafts are out (BTDT). The Bentley manual says to "drive out" the hubs from the wheel bearings. What is the preferred method for "driving" them out? Anyone who has done this successfully? Got pictures? I've tried beating on a 1/2" drive extension with a 30mm socket at the other end, against the inner part of the hub, from the back side. It is being very stubborn. It seems like using some kind of puller would be better, but I don't see anything that the center rod of a puller could brace against. I have borrowed the official BMW installation tool (thanks John), although it is not yet exactly obvious how this is used. Is it also used for hub removal? TIA, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 18:07:12 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Advice Wanted - E30 Rear Hub Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sun, Jun 13, 2004 at 05:49:49PM -0700, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: > I'm attempting to replace the rear wheel bearings on my '90 325i. The > axle shafts are out (BTDT). The Bentley manual says to "drive out" the > hubs from the wheel bearings. What is the preferred method for > "driving" them out? Anyone who has done this successfully? Got > pictures? You just keep driving until they're gone. Then replace. JB, attempting to do a "smiller" -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 20:21:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Donn York <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: "Catalyst Damage" code from Check Engine Light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Catalyst damage code has nothing to do with cat > condition. It means there's > a problem that can, or will, cause damage to the > cats. > > EGI? Not a BMW abbreviation. > > Email me the last 7 digits of your VIN and the P > code for the EGI fault and > I'll see if I can convert them to useful information > for you. > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > > -----Original Message----- > > My '97 328iA just had the Check Engine light go on > > last night. I had AutoZone read the code(s) > today, > > and there were two: > > > > 1) P1421 Catalyst Damage > > 2) EGI Functionality Test Failed > > > > My car still has 6 months and 27000 miles of > catalytic > > converter warrantee left on it, so I'm bringing it > > into the dealer tomorrow. They said that the > > catalytic converter would be covered unless the > > problem was caused by debris/etc. damaging the > > converter. Then it's around, gulp, $1000. > > > > Any advice on dealing with the dealer and/or this > > issue? If they won't cover it under warrantee, I > > don't plan on having the dealer do the work. > > > > Also, anyone ever heard of the other code (#2)? > I'm > > hoping it's caused by the cc and it all gets fixed > > together, of course. Brett: Thanks! I already took the car into a local dealer and it turned out to be the secondary air pump. I had them do the repair and the car was fine over the weekend. Thanks anyway. BTW, I think the P codes were 1421 and 1423. The VIN ends with "AV46749". Donn __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 22:22:51 -0700 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 2002 M Coupe for sale (Sapphire Black Metallic) **update** Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In response to inquiries: The cost does not include shipping. I'm located in Los Angeles. If you have any questions, call me at 818.613.1122 Group, Rather than being redundant, I've created a website with a ton of pictures and information on my M Coupe and it can be seen here: http://www.inlacal.com/mcoupe Beyond the sale price of $40k, I would consider a trade for an e46 M3 or a 2001-2002 M Coupe in Alpine White/Imola Red with black interior (only). If you have any questions, just let me know. Chris ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 01:32:11 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 2002 M Coupe for sale (Sapphire Black Metallic) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> why are the wheels re-painted in an (in my opinion) unattractive normal BMW wheel silver rather than the OE dark shadow ? (or whatever they call the '01/'02-unique color for the MZ3 wheels) ? for my $40k I'd want the wheels to be the correct color. Ben would probably go JimC blower on an S52 M coupe instead... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 22:24:06 -0700 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 2002 M5 rims & tires for sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I have a set of M5 rims and tires for sale. $1500 obo takes them. Pictures of the set can be seen here: http://www.inlacal.com/m5rims Chris ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 09:15:11 -0700 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: For sale: 2004 X5 rims Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I have a brand new (literally...only 22 miles) set of 2004 X5 rims that are in perfect condition. They can be seen here: http://www.inlacal.com/04x5rims If you have any questions, just let me know. Chris ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 09:55:41 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> Turn the key and the (ABS and ASC) light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 12:52 PM 6/12/04, Steve.Goldstein talked about: >So I got into the silver chariot yesterday for the grueling >8-mile commute home and both the ABS and ASC lights remained >on. They have continued to do so through several more on/off >cycles today. Car is a 1999 323is, and yes, it's an E36 - the >coupes didn't change to E46 until MY2000. > >Any hints? Is this something a mere mortal has a chance to >fix or am I in for a visit to my favorite independent? This happened on my M3. Turned out to be the brake pedal travel sensor that is located in the brake booster (big round object behind the master cylinder). Get the repair kit: 34 33 1 182 594 When you remove your old one, it will have a colored plastic cap on the end of the rod. Use the same cap from the repair kit (kit comes with several colored caps). Hope that helps, Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:11:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey all, Before I had replaced my front shocks with the Bilstein/H&R setup, I noticed that while driving slowly (10-15mph) and giving the brake pedal short jabs, a small clunk noise is produced from the front end. Now that I have replaced the shocks and springs, it seems a bit worse (louder). Anyone know what could be wrong? It only does it going forward, not reverse. Could this be the control arm bushings? On another note, with the new shocks and springs, the car has AMAZING turn-in. Even when I bought the car over 2 years ago, it wasn't this good. I'm thinking that the shocks and springs on the car were all original from when the car was new =-O. One of the shocks was so bad when I took it off that I was able to press the shaft into the cylinder with one finger. This of course was the shock which was giving me the noisy and clunky rattling sounds. To further support my thought that they were original shocks and springs, after replacing the front shocks, it actually sat a tiny bit HIGHER than with the stock shocks. Obviously the original ones on the car were pretty tired. I have yet to replace the rear springs. Bentley says to remove the axles from the diff, but when I replaced my stock spring a few months ago because the original one had broken, I recall that removing the axle from the diff didn't really give me any more space to remove the spring. Is it supposed to give me that much more space, or is something is wrong? Thanks, Brian __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:23:21 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Check your sway bar end links to make sure they are tight - that can cause the clunk. Or - the front subframe may be cracked where the motor mounts bolt (I'm guessing you have an E36, you didn't say in the email). Or - you didn't tighten down the big shock retaining nut enough. Bentley is smoking crack wrt removing the rear axles. Just unbolt the rear shock and if you're lucky you can force the control arm down far enough to pull out the spring. Otherwise get a spring compressor. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Ruiz Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 2:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Hey all, Before I had replaced my front shocks with the Bilstein/H&R setup, I noticed that while driving slowly (10-15mph) and giving the brake pedal short jabs, a small clunk noise is produced from the front end. Now that I have replaced the shocks and springs, it seems a bit worse (louder). Anyone know what could be wrong? It only does it going forward, not reverse. Could this be the control arm bushings? On another note, with the new shocks and springs, the car has AMAZING turn-in. Even when I bought the car over 2 years ago, it wasn't this good. I'm thinking that the shocks and springs on the car were all original from when the car was new =-O. One of the shocks was so bad when I took it off that I was able to press the shaft into the cylinder with one finger. This of course was the shock which was giving me the noisy and clunky rattling sounds. To further support my thought that they were original shocks and springs, after replacing the front shocks, it actually sat a tiny bit HIGHER than with the stock shocks. Obviously the original ones on the car were pretty tired. I have yet to replace the rear springs. Bentley says to remove the axles from the diff, but when I replaced my stock spring a few months ago because the original one had broken, I recall that removing the axle from the diff didn't really give me any more space to remove the spring. Is it supposed to give me that much more space, or is something is wrong? Thanks, Brian __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:44:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: body shop in LA, CA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My car was in a front end accident before I ever got it, and I don't know how well it was repaired. Everything seemed to be in alignment, but the frame rail you can see from the front of the engine comparment was still wobbly and not straight (or whatever that rail you can see from the engine compartment that holds the bumper shocks...don't know if that's actually a frame rail or not). In addition, I had a very slow speed run in with the back of my friend's jeep about 2 years ago. The front metal piece that houses the grills was damaged, so I had it replaced. The new one fits okay, but it is slightly pushed in on the side of the car I bumped my friend's Jeep on, and it doesn't line up perfectly with the edge of the hood. Pictures would probably explain better; perhaps I'll take some tonight and post. In addition, the paint on the hood is cracking under the clear coat, and is a huge eye-sore. In any case, I am looking for a good priced body shop (of course, seeking good quality) in the Los Angeles area that can do a good job for me. Thanks, Brian __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
