EV Digest 6962
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Chains and belts (was Re: ft-lbs or lbs-ft)
by "paul compton \(RRes-Roth\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Cheap
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: n00b in your midst
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) unsubscribe
by John Weber <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) thanks
by John Weber <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: ???kWh EV battery pack
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: I have an IDEA!
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Your "IDEA" of using 4 DeWalt packs
by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Dead Weight Vs Torque
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: To Gear or Not to Gear a Motorcycle (was Manly EV's, etc.)
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Air Drag?
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: To Gear or Not to Gear a Motorcycle (was Manly EV's, etc.)
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Air Drag?
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Nobody wants my money.. (rant for the day)
by Matthew Drobnak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Adapter Problem
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Sailboat Conversion
by "Michael Bittle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Air Drag?
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Sailboat Conversion
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Nobody wants my money.. (rant for the day)
by Marcin Ciosek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Sailboat Conversion
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: EV air conditioning, how to connect motor?
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Weird Questions
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Potential BMS solution for lithium-ion packs.
by Rob&Amy Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: Home built hybrid-electrics
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) RE: EV air conditioning, how to connect motor?
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) RE: I have an IDEA!
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
33) RE: reed switch application
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
> This reminds me to ask: teethed belts don't require as much tension as
> V-ones and don't slip. Wonder why they aren't used more widely? Sure,
> alternator and A/C compressor don't require exact timing as valves do,
> but still, is it just noise and extra expense of teethed belts and
> pulleys, or some other technical reasons?
> Victor
It's mostly the cost.
Lowest cost, conventional 'V' or wedge belt.
Next lowest; Poly V.
More grooves to cut, but quieter, more efficient and less tension
needed. Large pulley many not even need grooves (Like Citi-El final
drive) and can be run as a flat belt.
Toothed belt; pulleys effectively gears with specialised tooth shapes,
same production method, but no heat treatment needed.
Paul Compton
Rothamsted Research is a company limited by guarantee, registered in
England under the registration number 2393175 and a not for profit
charity number 802038.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yeah, it is. When I send 10+ amps through it, I can see it turning red, it's
almost like a light bulb filament. :) Then it breaks and cools down. I hope
that redness doesn't cause any other damage, though.
- Tony
----- Original Message ----
From: Shaun Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 12:15:42 AM
Subject: Re: Cheap
On 6/28/07, Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've done something like using nickel fuses. From testing, I'm using a 0.003"
> thick, maybe 1/16" wide piece of nickel battery tab as a 10+ amp fuse (very
> very inaccurate "blowing" current!). The cell is rated for max 4 amps
> discharge, but they are massively in parallel, so the fuse should work fine.
> The tabs are 1/8" wide, I just cut a little bit of it in the middle, so that
> the whole tab isn't high resistance. Also my thinking is that by having the
> "fuse" part of the tab in the middle, it's farther from the cells, so it will
> heat up more on high current draws?
>
> - Tony
Hi Tony,
Wow, 3 thou seems awfully thin, even for 10A. Thanks for the
construction ideas, this is what I need to play with.
Cheers,
Shaun
www.electric-echo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
it only accepts plain text here. no html or images
I know what you are thinking, isn't that a little 1970s unix style. yes
it is : )
you can join me in suggesting this be moved to a nice clean webbased forum
Dan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Unsubscribe
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--- Begin Message ---
signoff ev
____________________________________________________________________________________
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play
Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
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--- Begin Message ---
Then most likely the batteries will die of old age before they wear out.
:)
Occasional discharges to 80% will reduce life span, but only by a small
amount (each time). Of course eventually the batteries will wear down to
the point where they won't be able to provide 80% of the original
capacity, while still being more than capable of producing 20% or even
50%.
> So what happens if you only go to 20%DOD regularly and once in a while
> go to 80%?
>
> --
> TEhben
> 'hElix EV'
> evalbum: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1225
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
If you use the DeWalt changer, it has a ballancer built in.
> I just got this idea and it probably won't work!
>
> How about I take 4 36 volt DeWalt battery packs and use them in an
> electric car!Then, I'll program the charger not to charge them all the
> way to 100%. I'll need to either have a battery balancer or tend to
> each cell to make sure that they are balanced.
>
> Can someone please point out to me why this won't work?
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
OK. 4 DeWalt packs do not have enough energy storage
(Volts x AH) to power a car no matter how you do the
math. You need at least 800 - 1200 cells. Divide
that by number / pack and that's how many of those
packs thay you need ... bare minimum. But, your
"idea" is not that far out if you use a few of "these
packs", and string them together in series and then in
parallel with your existing pack as a range extender.
I'd try one string first. That's what I did. Two or
more strings and things start getting real messy.
Now, you could use that while the car is sitting in a
parking lot, at stop lights, in traffic, or any time
you don't have the accelerator pressed. Or, you can
try to get it to work at all times, but expect
difficult getting the 2 packs to interact nicely when
you have those hugh current surges and voltage sage on
hard acceleration. It can be done, but difficult.
You need 2 chargers, a current limiter, overvoltage
protection on the main pack, over and under voltage
control on the aux pack, and the boost pack has to
maintain a higher voltage than the main pack at all
times. You also probably need a minumum 30 - 50 Amp,
high voltage boost converter with precision voltage
regulator to keep the aux pack above the main pack.
Read between the lines ... this is getting expensive.
I say "these packs" because I'm not sure what the
internal safety circuit looks like in those. Most of
them already have overvoltage, undervoltage, and over
current built in. But the "tripped condition" is not
what you would expect in most cases, and you have to
"reset the circuit" which can be a challenge to do on
the fly if it trips.
OK, can you tell, I already tried this and had
difficulty. Not these same packs, but something
similar. I believe given enough motivation and time,
it can be made to work.
Most people just crack open the packs and take the
cells out. Then, you need to make your own BMS. I
figured, why not try to use the one already in there?
Because, it is tricky making it work, and you can only
pull about C/2 drain rate max. Also, don't expect
those safety circuits to interact well when they are
strung together in series / parallel. You may end up
with a situation of no safety circuit at all, even
though you think you have one.
That's 2 AH worth from someone who tried something
very similar.
Steve
____________________________________________________________________________________
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news,
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http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was wondering how much dead weight can 1 ft-lb of torque lift?
I took a bolt put some wire wrapped around it and set the torque wrench to
click at 10 ft-lbs.
I put a 25lb weight at the other and and started to rotate the bolt, it
lifted the 25lbs off the floor and never clicked. I started to realize that
1 ft-lb of torque must be able to lift a tremendous amount of weight.
God bless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/28/07, Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I was wondering how much dead weight can 1 ft-lb of torque lift?
I took a bolt put some wire wrapped around it and set the torque wrench to
click at 10 ft-lbs.
I put a 25lb weight at the other and and started to rotate the bolt, it
lifted the 25lbs off the floor and never clicked. I started to realize that
1 ft-lb of torque must be able to lift a tremendous amount of weight.
Um, it can "lift" 1 pound at a 1 foot radius. You had a radius of
perhaps 1/4"? If that was exactly the case you'd be able to lift 48
lbs, therefore 480lbs with that torque wrench setting.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> logic behind Tesla Motors' rollout at the high end of the market, where
> overall design panache and sporting character matter enough to justify the
> $25,000 "Energy Storage System" cost (at least to several hundred buyers
> so
> far). Of course, on a bike the ESS will be significantly less expensive.
I guess that depends on how you define "Significantly". Motorcycles have
really, REALLY, bad aerodynamics. To get similar range at highway speeds
a motorcycle will need a pack that is at least 2/3 the size of the Tesla's
pack.
Assuming you can get the same deal on the batteries, that works out to
$16,000, or so.
--
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--- Begin Message ---
At what speed does aerodynamics start to play a role in a vehicle?
Obviously when you are pushing a car by hand aerodynamics play an almost
impractible role, so I was wondering at what speed do aerodynamics start to
have a significant impact?
I'm guessing around 15-25mph range?
( I realize this question also depends on the type of vehicle., just going
for ballpark figures here to get a better understanding.)
God bless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Disregard, I'd forgotten how big the battery pack on the Tesla was, you'd
never fit 2/3 of that on a bike.
In fact you'd be doing good to squeeze in 1/5 of that pack.
So $5k or so for the pack alone, but you'd only get maybe 100 miles range
at highway speeds. Less if you take adavantage of all of that
acceleration.
> I guess that depends on how you define "Significantly". Motorcycles have
> really, REALLY, bad aerodynamics. To get similar range at highway speeds
> a motorcycle will need a pack that is at least 2/3 the size of the Tesla's
> pack.
> Assuming you can get the same deal on the batteries, that works out to
> $16,000, or so.
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
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junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
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legalistic signature is void.
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--- Begin Message ---
The project I'm hoping to build requires a minimum of 60lbs of torque.
If I'm understanding this correctly a motor for this particular project
should be able to lift 720 lbs of dead weight if it had a 12" sprocket,
pulley or whatever the preferred choice?
Thank you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
On 6/28/07, Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I was wondering how much dead weight can 1 ft-lb of torque lift?
I took a bolt put some wire wrapped around it and set the torque wrench
to
click at 10 ft-lbs.
I put a 25lb weight at the other and and started to rotate the bolt, it
lifted the 25lbs off the floor and never clicked. I started to realize
that
1 ft-lb of torque must be able to lift a tremendous amount of weight.
Um, it can "lift" 1 pound at a 1 foot radius. You had a radius of
perhaps 1/4"? If that was exactly the case you'd be able to lift 48
lbs, therefore 480lbs with that torque wrench setting.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Start to play a role? Probably 1 mph.
At around 20-30 mph it becomes the dominate loss on flat ground. The
exact speed depends on the aerodynamics of the vehicle and how low it's
other losses are (i.e. LRR tires, etc.)
> At what speed does aerodynamics start to play a role in a vehicle?
>
> Obviously when you are pushing a car by hand aerodynamics play an almost
> impractible role, so I was wondering at what speed do aerodynamics start
> to
> have a significant impact?
>
> I'm guessing around 15-25mph range?
>
> ( I realize this question also depends on the type of vehicle., just going
> for ballpark figures here to get a better understanding.)
>
> God bless
>
>
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junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ian,
I've had good luck contacting PHET, and that's probably who I'm going to
go with when it's time. What were your impressions of the company? A
coworker (who is Taiwanese) noted that the stock of the parent company
is doing pretty well compared to most stocks there.
-Matt
PS On another note, I ordered my Zilla 2k 300V yesterday. :-)
Ian Hooper wrote:
So over the space of the last week or so I've been trying to buy some
motors and batteries. Who'd have thought it'd be so hard?!
ThunderSky..
Trying to order 40x 160Ah LFPs for the MX5. I emailed my contact
(Brandon), no reply. Used their online order form, no reply. Phoned
them, it rang out and hung up on me. *sigh*
Advanced DC..
I was hoping to talk to them about becoming a reseller for their
motors in Australia, since they're very under-represented over here.
Currently there just one guy over east (~2000 miles from here). So I
phoned them, left a voice mail, no reply. Used their online contact
form, no reply. Phoned them and left another voice mail, no reply.
It's a pity neither of these companies have much competition - maybe
that's why they don't worry too much about customer service..
End rant, thank you for listening ;)
-Ian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
www.grassrootsev.com has a CD on how to build your own
adapter. It might be helpful when taking the
transmission to a local shop. $12.00 with shipping.
--- Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I finally got a reply from Electro Automotive and
> they don't have the
> pattern for my R150F transmission and you have to
> get on like a 12
> week waiting list :\
> I don't feel inclined to ship it down to California
> and the wait time
> is kinda long.
> Making my own adapter seems kind of daunting. Is
> there anyone else
> that makes them or a general pattern -substitute
> measurements- that I
> can get a machine shop to make?
> I need help. :'(
>
> Thanks,
> --
> TEhben
> 'hElix EV'
> evalbum: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1225
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
an infinite amount. just depends on 'gearing' or where you couple the
rotational strength (torque) to a translatory strenght (lift force)
in your case of a bolt you coupled it very close to the axis which means
it gets very strong but slow. if you made a wider spool it would be
faster but weaker. gearing.
Dan
(christian)
Rob Hogenmiller wrote:
I was wondering how much dead weight can 1 ft-lb of torque lift?
I took a bolt put some wire wrapped around it and set the torque
wrench to click at 10 ft-lbs.
I put a 25lb weight at the other and and started to rotate the bolt,
it lifted the 25lbs off the floor and never clicked. I started to
realize that 1 ft-lb of torque must be able to lift a tremendous
amount of weight.
God bless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Or your torque wrench isn't very accurate at 10 ft lbs. Or you didn't
have the weight located 1 ft away from the bolt.
If everything is working correctly 10 ft-lbs of torque will exactly
ballance a 10 lb weight located 1 ft from the axis.
> I was wondering how much dead weight can 1 ft-lb of torque lift?
>
> I took a bolt put some wire wrapped around it and set the torque wrench to
> click at 10 ft-lbs.
>
> I put a 25lb weight at the other and and started to rotate the bolt, it
> lifted the 25lbs off the floor and never clicked. I started to realize
> that
> 1 ft-lb of torque must be able to lift a tremendous amount of weight.
>
> God bless
>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I need advice on how to reverse the rotation on a series-wound motor.
I am converting a 1968 sailboat from an old, smelly, messy, water and air
polluting gasoline 4-banger to a nice, new, quiet, pollution-free dc motor.
I have acquired a no-name 48-v series-wound dc motor with CW rotation and 2
external leads. When I apply voltage to the leads, the motor turns CW. When
I reverse the polarity of the voltage, the motor still turns CW.
Under normal circumstances this would not be a problem since I do not intend
to drive the boat backwards very much. But from time to time, I will have to
back out of my slip. So I need the motor to be able to turn CCW.
If the motor had four leads (A1, A2, S1, S2) solving this problem would be
simple. But as it only has 2 leads, I'm going to have to open the motor up
to fix this - but I am not sure what I have to do.
Can anyone give me (relatively detailed) advice on how to proceed? Thanks.
Michael Bittle
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well sprockets are usually speced by their DIAMETER not their radius. SO
a 12" sprocket will have a 6" radius.
At 6" out 60 ft-lbs of torque would lift 120lbs, not 720.
If you ment a 12" radius, then 60ft-lbs or torque would lift exactly 60
lbs (well hold it level techinically)
> The project I'm hoping to build requires a minimum of 60lbs of torque.
>
> If I'm understanding this correctly a motor for this particular project
> should be able to lift 720 lbs of dead weight if it had a 12" sprocket,
> pulley or whatever the preferred choice?
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 5:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
>
>
>> On 6/28/07, Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> I was wondering how much dead weight can 1 ft-lb of torque lift?
>>>
>>> I took a bolt put some wire wrapped around it and set the torque wrench
>>> to
>>> click at 10 ft-lbs.
>>>
>>> I put a 25lb weight at the other and and started to rotate the bolt, it
>>> lifted the 25lbs off the floor and never clicked. I started to realize
>>> that
>>> 1 ft-lb of torque must be able to lift a tremendous amount of weight.
>>
>> Um, it can "lift" 1 pound at a 1 foot radius. You had a radius of
>> perhaps 1/4"? If that was exactly the case you'd be able to lift 48
>> lbs, therefore 480lbs with that torque wrench setting.
>>
>>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rob Hogenmiller wrote:
At what speed does aerodynamics start to play a role in a vehicle?
it grows as the square of the speed. so it explodes in high air speed.
doubling the speed quadruples the drag.
It might be 50% of the rolling loss at 35mph depending on specific design
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TO reverse the direction on a series wound motor, you need to reverse the
dirrection of current flow in either the Field or the Armature, but not
both.
Since you only have two external connections you'll need to rewire it
internally.
Basically reverse the wiring to either the brushes OR the field (coils
that are on the outside of the motor).
If you can put some photos of the internals up on the web, then someone
(maybe Jim Husted) can help you with specific instructions.
> I need advice on how to reverse the rotation on a series-wound motor.
>
> I am converting a 1968 sailboat from an old, smelly, messy, water and air
> polluting gasoline 4-banger to a nice, new, quiet, pollution-free dc
> motor.
>
> I have acquired a no-name 48-v series-wound dc motor with CW rotation and
> 2
> external leads. When I apply voltage to the leads, the motor turns CW.
> When
> I reverse the polarity of the voltage, the motor still turns CW.
>
> Under normal circumstances this would not be a problem since I do not
> intend
> to drive the boat backwards very much. But from time to time, I will have
> to
> back out of my slip. So I need the motor to be able to turn CCW.
>
> If the motor had four leads (A1, A2, S1, S2) solving this problem would be
> simple. But as it only has 2 leads, I'm going to have to open the motor up
> to fix this - but I am not sure what I have to do.
>
> Can anyone give me (relatively detailed) advice on how to proceed? Thanks.
>
> Michael Bittle
>
>
>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I can confirm, that PHET will be very good cooperation partner if they find
you a good customer.
I've ordered 2000 cells and they were able to deliver the package in 3 weeks.
Best regards,
Marcin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The unit of torque are always a force times a distance. Examples are in-lb,
ft-lb, and ( for for those with a Metric Mind, like Victor) newton-meters.
If you meant 60 ft-lbs of torque, then that torque could lift 120 lbs at the
edge of a 12 inch sprocket.
Torque = F x D ( force x distance)
60 ft-lbs = F x 1/2 foot ( the lever arm from the center to edge of a 12"
sprocket is 6 inches, or 1/2 ft)
So, F = 120 lbs.
Phil Marino
From: "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 06:23:23 -0500
The project I'm hoping to build requires a minimum of 60lbs of torque.
If I'm understanding this correctly a motor for this particular project
should be able to lift 720 lbs of dead weight if it had a 12" sprocket,
pulley or whatever the preferred choice?
Thank you.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: Dead Weight Vs Torque
On 6/28/07, Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I was wondering how much dead weight can 1 ft-lb of torque lift?
I took a bolt put some wire wrapped around it and set the torque wrench
to
click at 10 ft-lbs.
I put a 25lb weight at the other and and started to rotate the bolt, it
lifted the 25lbs off the floor and never clicked. I started to realize
that
1 ft-lb of torque must be able to lift a tremendous amount of weight.
Um, it can "lift" 1 pound at a 1 foot radius. You had a radius of
perhaps 1/4"? If that was exactly the case you'd be able to lift 48
lbs, therefore 480lbs with that torque wrench setting.
_________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Micheal
If you can send me a couple pics so I can have a look
at it so I can make an informed how to. The basics
will require splitting the field coils and adding a
second "F" terminal and sepperating the "connected to
coil" brush lead and then attaching that to a new
terminal to make a second "A" terminal. You'll need
to create two new terminal housing holes and aquire
the needed insulators.
ID'ing the motor or getting a pic will allow me to
suggest more.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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--- Begin Message ---
www.Northerntool.com has a lot of V belt pulleys for various diameter
shafts. They are keyed so they should have one that will mate to the
shaft of your electric motor. You can also try www.mcmaster.com for a
pulley. They have a wide selection.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Shaun Williams
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 17:55
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: EV air conditioning, how to connect motor?
On 6/28/07, Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Has anyone connected a relatively modern car A/C compressor to a
> motor, inline? The discussion about belts and chains is reminding me
> that I need to figure this out, and I'd like to avoid a belt if I can
> -- amongst other reasons, I've still not found a good source for small
> lightweight K-section ribbed pulleys to fit on a standard keyed shaft
> or bushing. So, I'd like to have the motor somehow directly coupled to
> the compressor.
>
Hi Christopher,
I used the original ICE pulley to drive the original A/C compressor and
alternator. All that was needed was a bit of machining to bore it out
and make up a bush insert the right dimension for the motor shaft.
Most engineering shops wouldn't charge too much for this sort of job.
Here's a rough drawing I used as a guide for the machinist;
http://www.electric-echo.com/PulleyDrawing.htm
and lots of pic's;
http://www.electric-echo.com/journal3.htm
Then I just bought a smaller K-section belt to fit.
Shaun
www.electric-echo.com
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I thought I might take a moment to explain the basis of a few questions
I've asked, as they might seem a little weird.
What I'm hoping to build is an EV-Hybrid.
The Concept.
Use an existing gas powered vehicle (in my case a 2007 Ford Fusion) to
propel the vehicle up to 60mph (legal highway speed in my state).
Once reaching 60mph, flip the electric motor on to maintain 60mph.
So basically I'm trying to learn the terminology and also understand what
kind of components I would need to accomplish this project.
Currently I'm thinking of something very simple a on off switch no
controller, and cut off switch (not sure if that is the right term) when the
brakes are applied, basically like the way cruise control works. I would
then set my cruise control on the car at 55mph, or whatever to kick in if
the electric motor became under stress.
This should bump my gas mileage very high, I'm hoping for well over 100mpg.
Obviously this type of setup would not benefit all, but would be a nice
setup for a commuter that has a fair share of highway traveling/commuting.
You can see some of the things I'm learning/progress at www.7change.com
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Sounds pretty interesting. I will have to give this thing a read
when I get a chance.
Rob
On Jun 26, 2007, at 7:59 PM, Thomas Brannan wrote:
While doing a Google search for BMS circuits, I ran across an
interesting chip set from Texas Instruments. The 2 chips work
together, the processor is called the BQ20Z80 and works with another,
called the bq29312A Analog Front-End (AFE) Protection IC. A pdf of all
the info on the chips is called SLUA380 and can be searched for on the
TI site. They call the system a "gas gauge" because they have an
algorithm which "learns" the max and min operating points of the pack,
to allow accurately calculating remaining capacity. It will directly
monitor 4 series cells, and a maximum of 15 Ah, I believe, looking at
the max of the registers of the chip, but I'm thinking that some kind
of "factoring" could be added to do more, like fool the chip into
thinking 150 Ah is really full scale. Since each chip pair can monitor
4 series cells, if you want to put a total of 40 in series, you could
use 10 chip pairs. The pair cost about $10-ish so it's not too bad to
buy 10 sets for a total of $100, of course a few other components are
needed, but I think it's worth looking into. The chips communicate via
I2C so a display can be created to display the pack status. They also
sell evaluation boards, and have free Windows software to program the
system.
I have not yet bought any of them to play with, but was wondering if
anybody has any experience with these? Or interest? Comments?
Regards,
Tom Brannan
--
"It is better to meet a mother bear robbed of her cubs
than to meet some fool busy with a stupid project"
Proverbs 17:12 (TEV)
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Tom,
Very nice project! One thing you need to start thinking about
is where you are going to put your battery boxes and the gas tank for
your engine. I saw on your site that someone was wanking about your
choice of motors for the GSXR engine. The GSXR is a great choice.
600cc is plenty to move a car like that. I am going to propose
something that might take you on a different track though - ever hear of
the megasquirt controller (www.msefi.com)? The reason I am brining this
up is because if you want to run in parallel hybrid mode you are going
to need some way of getting electric drive to sync up with your GSXR
motor. The megasquirt can easily do this. It has quite a few outputs
available on the series 3 board to control all sorts of things. It also
has a PWM output that could theoretically drive your electric with some
sort of IGBT in between. I am just theorizing on that but it could be
doable. Maybe it could provide a POT output to a curtis controller to
make matters simpler. As for buying components on Ebay to get the bike
back to running condition, don't buy too many "bike specific" parts.
The fuel pump can be any pump capable of 45 psi. Any automotive fuel
injection one would do. In fact, your cars stock pump should work just
fine. If you are planning on keeping the fuel tank for the car in place
then just use the fuel pump it has in the tank already and feed the line
to the GSXR motor.
Jody
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tom Eberhard
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 13:31
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Home built hybrid-electrics
Hi,
I'm building a hybrid electic car and am interested in getting in touch
with other people that have started or completed similar projects.
Does anyone have the email address of this guy:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=29720&highlight=
(I registered on the site but the admins there have not blessed my
request)
For anyone who's interested, I post weekly updates of my progress here:
http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=3070
and occasionally on my own site:
http://www.GreenPlanetGarage.com
Best Regards,
Tom.
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--- Begin Message ---
How about using this product?
http://www.masterflux.com/products/sierra/
It was brought up on another thread and would easily do what you need
without any modifications. A little pricey but still a very workable
solution.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jim, Saturn Guy
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 20:44
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: EV air conditioning, how to connect motor?
Christopher,
Hi, my name is Jim. I am an ASE master mechanic and have been toying
with the A/C requirements of my own EV. The direct drive is an OK idea,
but the automotive compressors have the electromechanical clutches on
them for a reason. They are made to "cycle"
frequently under normal operating conditions. Without this "cycling" of
the compressor, the system will not operate as it was designed to do.
Start you ICE vehicle, turn on the A/C and hold the engine RPM up at
2000 like your going down the road. No watch how often the compressor
cycles. This action should be duplicated using your direct drive. And
if it is duplicated, I would think the life of your DC accessory motor
will be short. I have been looking into the possibility of using the
compressor from a wrecked Toyota Prius. They use a "compressor/motor"
assembly. There are no external moving parts. Just feed it power. But
I'm still investigating what the power requirements are for these
compressors. If you want to use the compressor you have, I would use
belt or chain drive and let the compressors clutch do it's job. Have
fun!!
Jim
--- Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Wed, 2007-06-27 at 13:04 -0700, Alan Brinkman
> wrote:
> > Christopher,
> >
> > I wrote this huge reply to your message and
> deleted it and here are the
> > key points I can add. I have trouble creating
> short messages.
> >
>
> Thanks for the effort Alan, I really appreciate it.
> I'm going to fiddle
> around with the compressor and see what I can do with it, and I'll
> refer back to your email and Roland's and see if I understand more
> once I have the parts in front of me. I'm hoping to do something like
> what you're talking about, attaching to the front face of the
> clutch/pulley assembly, and using the bolt into the shaft end to
> center everything.
> Balancing might be an issue especially if I weld, but we'll see how it
> goes...
>
>
> --
> Christopher Robison
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://ohmbre.org <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre +
> Z2K + Warp13!
>
>
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It will. Monster garage did it with 28V Milluakee batteries. They used
a whole lot more than 4 though. If I remember right they used close to
300.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Joseph T.
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 21:06
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: I have an IDEA!
I just got this idea and it probably won't work!
How about I take 4 36 volt DeWalt battery packs and use them in an
electric car!Then, I'll program the charger not to charge them all the
way to 100%. I'll need to either have a battery balancer or tend to each
cell to make sure that they are balanced.
Can someone please point out to me why this won't work?
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Is there any reason why you wouldn't just use the brake switch to
control the SPDT relay directly? Why have two switches to control the
same thing?
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 21:24
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: reed switch application
I've spent the past couple of hours doing some online reading about reed
switches. I have found a couple of questions unanswered. I bet some list
members have the answers.
My situation is that I want to add a reed switch along one of my EVs
motor power wires as part of a system to shut a Curtis controller down
quickly in the event it shorts on. The basic concept is [brake light on
power] > [reed switch] > [SPDT relay with coil diode]. The switching
contact is connected to ignition power in. The N.C. contact goes to the
main contactor. The N.O. contact is connected to the one side of the
coil and the other side of the coil is connected to ground. The brake
light on power and reed switch in series can apply power to the same
side of the coil as the N.O. contact to pull it in and the N.O. contact
will latch it on.
I have been looking at the test coils for reed switches and it appears
that the reed switch to be tested is supposed to be slid inside the
coil. If that is correct would that mean that I should put a round core
around the power cable and slide the reed switch inside the same
direction as the cable? When the power cable just passes through (or the
reed switch is laid on the wire) what percentage of a turn is that
approximately? Suggestions about the amp-turn rating of the selected
reed switch would also be useful. I'm trying to get in the ball park
before I just start buying parts half randomly :-)
Thanx,
Paul "neon" G.
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