EV Digest 7002

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Got Amps
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: weight savings
        by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Got Amps
        by "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Honda Civic Crankshaft?
        by "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) RE: melted battery post
        by Ted Sanders <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Honda Civic Crankshaft - clarity of terms
        by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: Got Amps
        by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: Plexiglas enclosures.
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Digest 7000
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Discover Channel to cover Wayland Invitational, July 14th
        by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: Honda Civic Crankshaft?
        by "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: White Zombie 11s in 07
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) RE: Converted super cars
        by "Dean Thompson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Digest 7000
        by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: White Zombie 11s in 07
        by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Discover Channel to cover Wayland Invitational, July 14th
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Electricity Book
        by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) RE: Another EV smile
        by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: Honda Civic Crankshaft?
        by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) RE: Converted super cars
        by Jerry Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Electricity Book
        by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: White Zombie 11s in 07
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: White Zombie 11s in 07
        by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: White Zombie 11s in 07
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
You need to subtract the sag of the battery pack before you multiply by the
current.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: Got Amps


> I checked out his evalbum entry at
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.html.
> It says the car has a 128V pack (I'm assuming it's the same car! ;)
>
> 128V * 25A= 3.2KW @35mph, or 6.4KW at 50A.
>
> I *think* this yields between 90 and 180 Wh/mile, but I am not at all
> sure that I've done the calculation correctly.
>
> If so, those seem to be pretty impressive efficiency numbers.
>
> On 7/7/07, Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Rich-
> >
> > 25 -50 amps at 35 mph sounds very good.
> >
> > What is your pack voltage?
> > I would be interested to know how many watts you use at that speed,
also.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > >From: "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > >Subject: Got Amps
> > >Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2007 14:52:21 -0400
> > >
> > >My new ammeter arrived this week and I installed it this morning.
> > >
> > >Now I'll be able to record my consumption at various speeds, try
different
> > >driving styles and generally have an indicator of how hard I'm pounding
my
> > >batteries, controller and motor.
> > >
> > >It was a trick to hook up though. Lol..you gotta love a "used" EV where
you
> > >puzzle out the PO's wiring scheme. Turns out that the ammeter wires run
> > >from the shunt, through a 12v relay to the meter. I finally found the
> > >relay, wires, and a keyswitch 12v source to hook everything up.
> > >
> > >I haven't had a reason to get out on the highway yet, but I have
learned
> > >that I only draw 25-50 amps cruising at 35 mph in my E-Beetle. Soon
I'll
> > >have stats on cruising to work at 55, and 65 mph, as well as the return
> > >trip. I suspect my rates of consumption are different due to an overall
> > >uphill trend on the way to work. Then I'll be able to figure out my
KW's
> > >and all that.
> > >
> > >Thanks to EA for getting it to me!
> > >
> > >Rich A.
> > >
> > >_________________________________________________________________
> > >http://newlivehotmail.com
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> >
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
> >
> >
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I don't know.  My system would be more expensive, but
> I think would weigh less and provide significant
> performance (range and cycle life) over Optima 31s or
> parallel strings of YT.

I don't see how.  Even with the lower discharge rates, the flooded 12V
batts won't last as long as well maintained AGMs.  The A123s have a much
higher cycle life, except you are cycling them multiple times on each
trip, so that pretty much cancels out.  They might las twice as long as
AGMs, but then they cost 8X as much per WH (not counting the required
balancing circuitry).

The small gain in capacity you get for the 12V Lead-Acid is used up in the
charge efficiency of the A123s.  I don't know what the charge efficiency
of A123s is, but it can't be better than 80-90%.

You don't say which 12V deep cycle you are talking about, let's assume
it's the Trojan SCS200.  That weighs about 60 lbs and at the 1hr discharge
rate is good for about 700-750 Whrs.
10 of these would be about 7.5 KWhrs, plus the ~1Khr for the A123s gives
you a total of 8.5 KWhrs (to 100% DoD) and total weight of about 625 lbs.
This will NOT give you 60 miles of range, unless you have an incredibly
aerodynamic car, or you drive slowly.  And of course, at 100% DoD your
flooded 12V batts won't last a year.
Note the 8.5 KWhr figure assumes that you do NOT charge the A123s from the
floodeds.  If you do charge them, then you'd have even less energy
available due to the charge efficiency of the A123s.
Used the way you propose, the total energy available (to 100% DoD) will
probably be between 7.5-8 KWhrs

8.5 KWhrs (@ 100% DoD) worth of Optima Grp 31s would weigh about 250 lbs
more.   8 KWhrs worth would be less than 200 lbs more.
This extra weight is fairly low compared to the total weight of the car.
The Optimas will also prove a MUCH peppier ride than the floodeds even
when backed up with 96V worth of A123s.

You could also replace the pack of Optimas two or three times for the
extra cost of the A123s and supporting circuitry.

>
> I think so at least.  Of course what you are
> recommending is simpler and I definnately considered
> it.  But, I am looking for a pack that can do 50 - 60
> miles and 2500 cycles, and weighs about the same as 14
> golf cart batts ....
>
> Gel cells will do 2500 cycles if loaded light like
> this ...
>
> 2 parallel strings of optimas - 30 - 35 miles, 600
> cycles (maybe)
>
> Don't know about Group 31.
>
> I don't see any way to make that happen with any kind
> of Optimas.  If it would, I'd buy them.  I also don't
> see any way to make it work with golf cart batts.
> Even 14 T-875's will only get me about 25 miles, and
> maybe 500 - 700 cycles absolute max.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated
> for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
>


-- 
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message.  By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
    Ah. I figured the calculation must be more complex than I had portrayed.
    Is there any way to estimate the voltage sag without actual
empirical numbers from the vehicle involved? I'm guessing this is
where Peukert's Exponent comes in but I do not know how to apply it.

On 7/8/07, Joe Smalley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
You need to subtract the sag of the battery pack before you multiply by the
current.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: Got Amps


> I checked out his evalbum entry at
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.html.
> It says the car has a 128V pack (I'm assuming it's the same car! ;)
>
> 128V * 25A= 3.2KW @35mph, or 6.4KW at 50A.
>
> I *think* this yields between 90 and 180 Wh/mile, but I am not at all
> sure that I've done the calculation correctly.
>
> If so, those seem to be pretty impressive efficiency numbers.
>
> On 7/7/07, Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Rich-
> >
> > 25 -50 amps at 35 mph sounds very good.
> >
> > What is your pack voltage?
> > I would be interested to know how many watts you use at that speed,
also.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > >From: "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > >Subject: Got Amps
> > >Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2007 14:52:21 -0400
> > >
> > >My new ammeter arrived this week and I installed it this morning.
> > >
> > >Now I'll be able to record my consumption at various speeds, try
different
> > >driving styles and generally have an indicator of how hard I'm pounding
my
> > >batteries, controller and motor.
> > >
> > >It was a trick to hook up though. Lol..you gotta love a "used" EV where
you
> > >puzzle out the PO's wiring scheme. Turns out that the ammeter wires run
> > >from the shunt, through a 12v relay to the meter. I finally found the
> > >relay, wires, and a keyswitch 12v source to hook everything up.
> > >
> > >I haven't had a reason to get out on the highway yet, but I have
learned
> > >that I only draw 25-50 amps cruising at 35 mph in my E-Beetle. Soon
I'll
> > >have stats on cruising to work at 55, and 65 mph, as well as the return
> > >trip. I suspect my rates of consumption are different due to an overall
> > >uphill trend on the way to work. Then I'll be able to figure out my
KW's
> > >and all that.
> > >
> > >Thanks to EA for getting it to me!
> > >
> > >Rich A.
> > >
> > >_________________________________________________________________
> > >http://newlivehotmail.com
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> >
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
> >
> >
>



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
    Briefly, my understanding of this issue is: many Honda motors are
designed to spin "counter-clockwise" when the observer is looking at
the main pulley (NOT  the output shaft). Since most Honda automobile
engines are transversely-mounted the easy way to tell if this is the
case is to look at which side of the engine compartment contains the
alternator and other engine "fixtures" (power-steering pump, vacuum
pump et al). If the fixtures are on the left-hand side as you face the
rear of the car, then the engine probably rotates clockwise. If the
fixtures are on the right-hand side then the engine probably rotates
counter-clockwise. Of course the shop manual (or Haynes/Chilton book)
for the car will tell you for sure.
     To "advance" an electric motor refers only to brushed DC motors;
it means to physically move the brushes forward along the motor's
circumference such that commutation takes place later in the motor's
"cycle".


On 7/8/07, Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On Sat, 2007-07-07 at 23:50 -0400, Joseph T. wrote:
> "Please follow the link to my webpage (below), then
> "CivicWithACord journal, and this is described in
> detail. "
> www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
>
>
> I see no "civicwithacord" journal.

On that page, do a text search (Ctrl-F in Firefox) for the word
"journal" and you'll land on the link.  It's just above the link to the
Powerpoint presentation, near the bottom of the page.

Or, just go here:

http://home.budget.net/~bbath/Civicwithacordjournal.html

--
Christopher Robison
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ohmbre.org          <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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*     This post contains a forbidden message format       *
*  (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting)  *
*       Lists at  sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT         *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting  *
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- To advance a motor, rotate the brush assembly in the direction opposite to the motor's rotation. To me, this is the clearest way to say it. This means that commutation takes place EARLIER when you advance the timing.

Also, it is conventional to talk about CW or CCW motor rotation when looking at the drive end of the motor. Most cars have engines that rotate CCW when looking at the drive ( or transmission) end. Many Hondas have engines that rotate CW.

Phil


From: "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Honda Civic Crankshaft?
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2007 06:52:52 -0400

    Briefly, my understanding of this issue is: many Honda motors are
designed to spin "counter-clockwise" when the observer is looking at
the main pulley (NOT  the output shaft). Since most Honda automobile
engines are transversely-mounted the easy way to tell if this is the
case is to look at which side of the engine compartment contains the
alternator and other engine "fixtures" (power-steering pump, vacuum
pump et al). If the fixtures are on the left-hand side as you face the
rear of the car, then the engine probably rotates clockwise. If the
fixtures are on the right-hand side then the engine probably rotates
counter-clockwise. Of course the shop manual (or Haynes/Chilton book)
for the car will tell you for sure.
     To "advance" an electric motor refers only to brushed DC motors;
it means to physically move the brushes forward along the motor's
circumference such that commutation takes place later in the motor's
"cycle".


_________________________________________________________________
http://liveearth.msn.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Andrew,

You are correct about my car. It's still set up the same way.
I'm also not sure about the calculations. Supposedly the calculation is volts * amps= watts but what volts? 128 volts (my pack voltage?) or whatever the voltage has sagged to while I'm drawing 50 amps, or what?

I live in an area with a lot of gentle, rolling hills, even in my residential area so it's a bit difficult to get an average. Once I get the motor spun up to max RPM's and 33-35 mph, I bounce between 25-50 amps with 75-100 on the steepest residential grades.

I suspect efficiency will fall off drastically when I take it on the highway tomorrow morning for my daily commute. I'm betting 175 amps average for 55 mph and 225 or worse for 65+ mph. I'll have to make a video and post it one of these days.

We'll see.

Rich A.

Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2007 19:54:12 -0400
From: "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Got Amps
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

I checked out his evalbum entry at http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.html.
It says the car has a 128V pack (I'm assuming it's the same car! ;)

128V * 25A= 3.2KW @35mph, or 6.4KW at 50A.

I *think* this yields between 90 and 180 Wh/mile, but I am not at all
sure that I've done the calculation correctly.

If so, those seem to be pretty impressive efficiency numbers.

_________________________________________________________________
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In general I have mentioned the issue with the flamability of plastic
many times, recommending against it for belly pans for example. I used
to work in plastics.

Plexiglass(acrylic) is no generally available with flame retardant.
Search google and you will find many references to building fire codes
for public buildings that say plexiglas is not allowed, polycarbonate or
glass only.

If you get lexan(PolyCarbonate) instead of acrylic, it is available with
a flame retardant. You probably have to specify it when buying sheet.
And may find the sales people have no clue. Probably need to try a
plastics supply place, not the local hardware. The difference is when
exposed to a ignition source it chars and flames out. (This made it a
pain to melt out of a mold with a propane torch when stuck)

http://www.polymerplastics.com/transparents_lexan9600.shtml

Now the downsides. Although we shouldn't have to much of either.

    All plastics are degraded by UV. Manufactures put in a prescribed
number of years worth of UV protection.
    Polycarbonate is damaged by oils and greases. it crazes and looses
strength.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have noticed recently that the digest numbers I am recieveing have gaps.

Were their 6991,6992,6994,6995,6998, and 7000 digest or are the numbers
just skipping

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I just got confirmation that the folks from the Canadian Discovery Channel program "Daily Planet" are coming to Portland International Raceway this coming weekend to cover the NEDRA race on July 14th.

        Good news for NEDRA and all that compete.

Bill Dube'

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
 ""To "advance" an electric motor refers only to brushed DC motors;
it means to physically move the brushes forward along the motor's
circumference such that commutation takes place later in the motor's
"cycle".""

Do motors from ADC already come advanced? How are you supposed to know
how much you advance the motor?

On 7/8/07, Andrew Kane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
    Briefly, my understanding of this issue is: many Honda motors are
designed to spin "counter-clockwise" when the observer is looking at
the main pulley (NOT  the output shaft). Since most Honda automobile
engines are transversely-mounted the easy way to tell if this is the
case is to look at which side of the engine compartment contains the
alternator and other engine "fixtures" (power-steering pump, vacuum
pump et al). If the fixtures are on the left-hand side as you face the
rear of the car, then the engine probably rotates clockwise. If the
fixtures are on the right-hand side then the engine probably rotates
counter-clockwise. Of course the shop manual (or Haynes/Chilton book)
for the car will tell you for sure.
     To "advance" an electric motor refers only to brushed DC motors;
it means to physically move the brushes forward along the motor's
circumference such that commutation takes place later in the motor's
"cycle".


On 7/8/07, Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Sat, 2007-07-07 at 23:50 -0400, Joseph T. wrote:
> > "Please follow the link to my webpage (below), then
> > "CivicWithACord journal, and this is described in
> > detail. "
> > www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
> >
> >
> > I see no "civicwithacord" journal.
>
> On that page, do a text search (Ctrl-F in Firefox) for the word
> "journal" and you'll land on the link.  It's just above the link to the
> Powerpoint presentation, near the bottom of the page.
>
> Or, just go here:
>
> http://home.budget.net/~bbath/Civicwithacordjournal.html
>
> --
> Christopher Robison
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://ohmbre.org          <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!
>
>



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks John for forwarding Tim's post.  It's great to hear the story from 
Tim's view.  After all, he is in the drivers seat!
My hat is off to you and the whole team.  I really appreciate, not only your 
extreme efforts but also sharing the experience with the rest of us through 
your posts and writings.  This is really major stuff -- very inspiring!
The bad part is -- it is driving me insane with my conversion sitting in 
financial hold!!!  Grrrr.
Oh, well, as you have proven, as long as the effort doesn't fade success is 
inevitable!
 
Ken
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/6/2007 4:50:34 AM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hello to All,

I'm forwarding Tim's post to the EVDL, because for some reason, 
it didn't make it when he sent it directly:



Hello everyone,

After many hours of work on the car to get ready for
racing, Friday finally came. It had been raining off
and on all day with downpours in the afternoon. It
was starting to look like the anti-EV vortex was back. 
I arrived at Wayland's around 4:00 pm to find the shop 
full of cameras and crew interviewing Wayland. Between 
the weather and the distractions it wasn't looking good
for racing.

Marco Mongillo had arrived in his electric Fiat. We waited 
out in the rain for the cameras to stop rolling so we 
could load all the racing gear in the service truck. 
When the cameras stopped, we debated going to the track. 
With the occasional sun breaks and the dark clouds moving 
to the north though, we headed to the track.

We arrived at the track at around 6:00, the rain
had completely stopped, but the sky looked like it could
open up at anytime. John drove the service truck directly
to our charging area to connect the giant power
cable to the PIR transformer for charging while I drove
the Zombie to tech inspection. After the inspector's
quick look at the car, I was off to the charging area. 

With a full charge, I pulled up to the water box
for the first burnout since the brush timing change. I
wasn't sure what to expect, and I was worried about
arcing or loss of some torque from the 5 more degree 
advancement of the motor. I eased into the go pedal,
the tires immediately spun up and turned into rolling
balls of white smoke. I thought to myself "Wow, the
car feels like it has more torque, the launch should
be interesting". I pulled up to the line next to a
new bright yellow Corvette. Yellow, yellow, yellow,"I
hope this thing goes straight when I hit this pedal" 
green, GO!

I stomped the pedal and the car launched perfectly, the front 
end came up just enough to get good weight distribution, but 
not far enough to loose any time or waste too much torque. The 
tires stuck to the track and catapulted the car in a perfectly 
straight line. I thought "oh, here comes the 1/8th mile mark, time 
for the motor to quit pulling so hard", but it never stopped pulling. 
This was a whole new car, the batteries were still cold and the brushes
were barely broken in. I saw the Corvette coming up in the mirror,
but it was too late I had already crossed the finish
line nearly a full second in front of him. I pulled
up to the shack to grab my time slip, oh, 12.4 @ 101
not bad for the first run.

With another cycle on the mighty Enersys/Hawker
batteries, I was ready for a second run against the
Corvette (this time with his traction control on). A
second effortless tire boiling burnout and up to the
line again. I smashed the pedal, again a very
controllable almost gentle launch (very gentle
compared to how the car use to launch). The Corvette was
getting smaller and smaller, it was another nearly
perfect run, no tire spin, no aggressive sideways
launch, no arching or vibration, just a smooth
100+ mph cruise down the track. I checked the time slip,
12.14 @ 107! Wayland and I had been a little concerned with
the brush timing, but it seams to have dramatically
increased performance at both the beginning and end
of the track. I can't wait to see what the next run
will be!

Charged a third time and just starting to get
warm, these batteries were laughing at the 500 amps we are
pulling from each of them for the 12 seconds. I pull up to the 
line next to a pretty hot looking BMW M3. This might be the 11
second run. I hit the pedal expecting the now warm batteries to 
pull the front end up a little more, but the Zombie just kept it's 
head down, stuck to the track and shot down the track with a quick 
time of 12.03 @??? (Wayland is more protective of the time slips 
than he is the car, I only get to look at them when I pick the up 
at the timing booth, then I never see them again.) Damn, this is 
going to be another one of those nights, the track is getting cold 
and the rain looks close, 12.03 is almost as close as you can get to
the elevens without touching them.

We immediately got the car on charge to hopefully get
in another run or two. After a quick charge, I lined
back up with the BMW, this time with his traction control
on (this seams to be a common excuse). This is it,
the car will either break the 11s on explode. White Zombie
launched hard, but still very controlled, no
explosion yet, we passed 1/8 mile, still no failures! At this
point the BMW was just a speck in the mirror, Now I
can see the finish line, the car still feels great,
I can't hear any arcing, I can't smell any burning,
I'm still going straight, is this it? I flew through the
finish line with an 11.94 (YES 11.94, finally).
After being so close so many times, the elusive 11s are now
ours! It's amazing how many hours $$$$ and ideas it
takes to shave off that .15 seconds! 

After a lot of celebrating in the pits Wayland was ready to 
leave the track (I know, I'm not sure where this voice came 
from, the Wayland I know doesn't have a "voice of reason" um, 
we blow things up, so you don't have to???) It took some convincing 
from some fans, but he agreed to let me have one more run.

Without a second thought I jumped in the car and
hauled ass to the starting line before he could
change his mind. I pulled up to the line and looked over
the see a 64 Pontiac Tempest with huge drag tires in the
rear, with a huge 455 under the hood. Oh great, I line
up against the one car here that will smoke the little
battery powered Datsun, oh well, it should be
another 11. I hit the pedal (a little too early, red light
-0.03 too early) I expect this roaring monster to
fly by me at a million miles an hour, but to my surprise
he stays just close enough behind me to rattle my
teeth with his big block screaming to keep up. The
Zombie flew through the traps at another impressive
11.96 at 110 something!

I have to thank Jim Husted for not detuning the
motor while he had it back in his possession, so he
wouldn't have to worry about us blowing it up. Jim, I
know how hard it is for you, to work so hard so we can try
our hardest to break it ; )

Tim





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

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--- Begin Message ---
On 8/7/07, Joseph wrote:

> It's in Palm Beach. I live nearby; I've thought about visiting there
> before but honestly I kind of think it's just a scam.

Isn't that Steve Clunn's friend (http://www.grassrootsev.com/index.htm)?
Paul I think it is, he does kit-car EV conversions. I don't think it is a
scam as such. Anyone know what Steve is up to these days? I used to enjoy
reading his posts about is lawn mower antics and backyard conversions. 

Dean

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 8 Jul 2007 at 7:04, Jeff Shanab wrote:

> I have noticed recently that the digest numbers I am recieveing have gaps.

I don't see any gaps in the Yahoo digest archive

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/

or the Mail Archive archive

http://www.mail-archive.com/ev@listproc.sjsu.edu/

They sometimes arrive out of sequence when your mail server has had some 
problems (bouinces cause the server to delay further releases).  Wait 36-48 
hours and see if the missing ones show up.

David Roden
EVDL Administrator
http://www.evdl.org/

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
putting some A123 lithiums in it should make it go
get it under 10

if the 138 amps peak per cell is true you won't even need that many
maybe 1000 cells. maybe less

is 400lbs less an advantage? :)

Dan

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I just got confirmation that the folks from the
> Canadian Discovery 
> Channel program "Daily Planet" are coming to
> Portland International 
> Raceway this coming weekend to cover the NEDRA race
> on July 14th.
> 
>       Good news for NEDRA and all that compete.

Hey Bill, all

Great news for EV's in general 8^)  I'm really looking
forward to seeing Killacycle tear up some track and
break into the 7's 8^o  I've wanted to see it run in
person long before doing any motor work and I just
can't wait!

I'll have your extra leads and I got a new order of
comm stones in so any new brushes needed to be
installed can be given a good seating.

I'll be bring out a bunch of motor paraphernalia
ranging from Mike Willmons 9's, my baby Siamese6
disassembled for people to touch and feel, and a pile
of "hall of flame" remnants of races past, and some
spare parts just in case.

Wayland told me just a day or two ago that there
should be 4 media companies that'll be there, this
might make 5?  

Hopefully lots of EV'ers come out to support the EVent
and root you guys into what should be the quickest EV
1/4 miles ever run 8^o  PIR and it's crowds just love
the EV's so you better be prepared to go home horse
from all the talking you'll be doing, LMAO!

Anyway Bill, I remember you catching me looking up
Killacycles skirt at Joliet looking at her motors 8^o
Getting to work on them and now getting to watch it
run is kinda like a "super freak" moment for me 8^)

You guys have a safe trip over, see you at the Wayland
Juice bar.

Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


 
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Smartflix has a basic Electricity video course

smartflix.com/store/video/4630/Basic-Electronic-Theory

I know it is not a book but I found it to be a nice
refresher course from my Electronic training in the
military. 

--- "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I am wondering if anyone here knows of any good
> books about
> electricity that cover from the real basics to
> electronic components?
> 
> 



 
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--- Begin Message ---
Good job Jeff.  Keep us posted on performance as you
get her broke in.

kEVs


---Original Message-----

> Subject: Another EV smile
> 
>  Well my 928 is finally on the road! It took its
> maiden voyages on Wednesday.
>  Thanks to everyone on the ev-list for your help.A
> few
> that have helped directly are , Cor van de Water,
> Bob
> Bath for pointing me in the right direction. Most of
> the time I remained in lurk mode and used many great
> ideas from the very knowledgeable people here. In
> particular Lee Hart for his voltage clamper and pack
> monitor designs. So simple that even a electronic
> novice like myself can understand. :<)
> Thanks again, 
> Jeff McCabe
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/736
> 
> 



       
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It sounds like you still haven't followed the link
(below, then to my journal).  The ADC motors come with
pre-drilled holes.  You don't get to "choose" where to
advance to.
peace,

--- "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>   ""To "advance" an electric motor refers only to
> brushed DC motors;
> it means to physically move the brushes forward
> along the motor's
> circumference such that commutation takes place
> later in the motor's
> "cycle".""
> 
> Do motors from ADC already come advanced? How are
> you supposed to know
> how much you advance the motor?
> 
> On 7/8/07, Andrew Kane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >     Briefly, my understanding of this issue is:
> many Honda motors are
> > designed to spin "counter-clockwise" when the
> observer is looking at
> > the main pulley (NOT  the output shaft). Since
> most Honda automobile
> > engines are transversely-mounted the easy way to
> tell if this is the
> > case is to look at which side of the engine
> compartment contains the
> > alternator and other engine "fixtures"
> (power-steering pump, vacuum
> > pump et al). If the fixtures are on the left-hand
> side as you face the
> > rear of the car, then the engine probably rotates
> clockwise. If the
> > fixtures are on the right-hand side then the
> engine probably rotates
> > counter-clockwise. Of course the shop manual (or
> Haynes/Chilton book)
> > for the car will tell you for sure.
> >      To "advance" an electric motor refers only to
> brushed DC motors;
> > it means to physically move the brushes forward
> along the motor's
> > circumference such that commutation takes place
> later in the motor's
> > "cycle".
> >
> >
> > On 7/8/07, Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > > On Sat, 2007-07-07 at 23:50 -0400, Joseph T.
> wrote:
> > > > "Please follow the link to my webpage (below),
> then
> > > > "CivicWithACord journal, and this is described
> in
> > > > detail. "
> > > > www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I see no "civicwithacord" journal.
> > >
> > > On that page, do a text search (Ctrl-F in
> Firefox) for the word
> > > "journal" and you'll land on the link.  It's
> just above the link to the
> > > Powerpoint presentation, near the bottom of the
> page.
> > >
> > > Or, just go here:
> > >
> > >
>
http://home.budget.net/~bbath/Civicwithacordjournal.html
> > >
> > > --
> > > Christopher Robison
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > http://ohmbre.org          <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre
> + Z2K + Warp13!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> 
> 


Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic?  My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too! 
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
                          ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
  =D-------/    -  -         \  
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? 
Are you saving any gas for your kids?


      
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dean, you are correct.  I got a ride in one of Paul's conversions at Steve's 
Ft. Pierce EV rally this spring.  He ran in fifth gear and it was quite 
impressive.  Very nice car.  I believe the selling price is around $60,000 
however.

Steve is alive and well and is swamped with conversion work.  I just talked to 
him last week.  He said he has not had time to read the discussion list at all.

Jerry Wagner

-----Original Message-----
>From: Dean Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Jul 8, 2007 9:52 AM
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>Subject: RE: Converted super cars
>
>On 8/7/07, Joseph wrote:
>
>> It's in Palm Beach. I live nearby; I've thought about visiting there
>> before but honestly I kind of think it's just a scam.
>
>Isn't that Steve Clunn's friend (http://www.grassrootsev.com/index.htm)?
>Paul I think it is, he does kit-car EV conversions. I don't think it is a
>scam as such. Anyone know what Steve is up to these days? I used to enjoy
>reading his posts about is lawn mower antics and backyard conversions. 
>
>Dean
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My all time favorite is the ARRL Handbook, you can buy it on Amazon.com or
check it out from your local library (I've yet to find a library that
doesn't have it).

It starts out simple and works it's way up.  It's geared for radio
communications, but the basics are the same for all electronics.  You can
skip the section on Tubes and, if you're not interested in
transmitters/receivers, pretty much everything after it covers basic
amplifiers amplifiers.

They publish an updated version every year, so if you buy one it's pretty
much guaranteed to be up to date.

> I am wondering if anyone here knows of any good
> books about
> electricity that cover from the real basics to
> electronic components?
>

-- 
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message.  By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> putting some A123 lithiums in it should make it go
> get it under 10
> 
> if the 138 amps peak per cell is true you won't even
> need that many
> maybe 1000 cells. maybe less
> 
> is 400lbs less an advantage? :)
> 
> Dan

I believe the pack he'll be using is 880 cells.  John
was saying WZ will be trimming down from 2580 lbs to
1900ish, and also thought 10's just might be in the
making.  The fun part will be watching John weasle the
track officials into letting him make a second run to
lock in the record 8^o  Of corse we might just watch
Tim rip the car half.  Being that two of my more
notable (and most pounded) motors will be running,
I'll be the guy who looks like I'm about to vomit, for
those looking to find me, LMAO!
Mother Hen Mode, full on! 8^)
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
BTW Wayland, finish part 2 before next weekend would
you!  Yeah, Yeah, I don't want to hear about you being
busy 8^P


       
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--- Begin Message ---
I just love being right :)
what will they cost and where does he get them?
and please no secrecy bullshit

Dan

Jim Husted wrote:
I believe the pack he'll be using is 880 cells.  John
was saying WZ will be trimming down from 2580 lbs to
1900ish, and also thought 10's just might be in the
making.  The fun part will be watching John weasle the
track officials into letting him make a second run to
lock in the record 8^o  Of corse we might just watch
Tim rip the car half.  Being that two of my more
notable (and most pounded) motors will be running,
I'll be the guy who looks like I'm about to vomit, for
those looking to find me, LMAO!
Mother Hen Mode, full on! 8^)
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
BTW Wayland, finish part 2 before next weekend would
you!  Yeah, Yeah, I don't want to hear about you being
busy 8^P


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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I just love being right :)
> what will they cost and where does he get them?
> and please no secrecy bullshit

I'm the motor guy, you're barking up the wrong tree,
again! LMAO!!

Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


      
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