Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Fri, 27 Jul 2007 20:47:38 -0700
EV Digest 7072
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question
by Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: parallel batteries
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Hanging with Victor...EVision replaces all gauges in White Zombie
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: was DIY Electric now forums redux
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Bridgestone Ecopia EP-03 Tires
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Lester SCR Battery Charger
by Tom Gocze <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Controller precharge resistor drain?
by "Roger Daisley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) NEDRA Nationals Raffle motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Hanging with Victor...EVision replaces all gauges in White Zombie
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: NEDRA Nationals Raffle motor
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: NEDRA Nationals Raffle motor
by Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) AMC project motor, DIY potbox kit thoughts
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: NEDRA Nationals Raffle motor
by Tim Brehm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: NEDRA Nationals Raffle motor
by Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: NEDRA Nationals Raffle motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Bridgestone Ecopia EP-03 Tires
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Controller precharge resistor drain?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: A123 chemistry
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: NEDRA Nationals Raffle motor
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message --- I see this is lacking responses. I don't have one apart at this time but I have in the past...On Jul 24, 2007, at 11:59 PM, Mike Willmon wrote:The stock flywheel seems to have to set down about ~3/8" into the housing with about an RCH clearance. I mean its pretty tight. The flywheel doesn't seem to be perfectly true or else the alignment holes are not prefectly true on center because it rubs the housing. We wound up trying 3 different flywheels as well as rotating them 90 degrees until just about the last one fit and didn't rub the side of the adaptor housing. So has anyone done a Bug that can tell us if the flywheel is supposed to sit down inside that housing, or are we mounting it in too far? If it is supposed to fit inside somewhat, is there any problem turning offthe ring gear as well as .125" off the OD.The Beetle flywheel sits just *slightly* inside the stock engine case. The amount is not very much, I don't think any part of the flywheel is outside the face of the transaxle (in other words, its inside by less than the thickness of the centering ring on the back of the engine.) The ring gear should be completely inside the transaxle.You mentioned that one flywheel fit. You should make sure its not a 180mm clutch flywheel. That's no fair and no good (they have enough trouble with later stock VW engines, that's why VW went to a 200mm clutch.)While we got one iteration of our different fitments to work without rubbing I'm concerned that the weight of the motor hanging unsupported off the transaxle might set down on the flywheel causing it to rub again. Would .125" off the O.D. be sufficientclearance?Things here better not be moving! The Beetle had no problem hanging a 247 lb. engine off the back of the transaxle. Shake, rattle, and roll, it was never a problem (unless someone didn't tighten the bolts!) When grinding out a 40HP tranny to fit a 200mm clutch flywheel its not uncommon to stop grinding with only 0.01 inch of clearance for the larger ring gear.HTH, Paul "neon" Gooch
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--- Begin Message --- NiMH parallel no problem to discharge. They can't be charged in parallel because their voltage drops once fully charged, but they still accept current, so the other strings will continue to overcharged the weakest one to death. The solution is to use a switch or diode so a string can't be charged by another one, and charge each string independently. You need a BMS to handle it, its not difficult, just adds expense, but adds a lot of other value as well, like balancing and monitoring.Jack Dale Ulan wrote:As I understand it, lead acid batteries work okay being in parallel and NiMH don't work well in parallel.Question for those who have more knowledge on this point... NiMH don't parallel well, but what about having several strings that are either higher or lower in voltage than the motor+controller need, and a buck/boost bidirectional converter for each string, dumping power into (or out of, in the case of regen) the main 'bus'. Say, 6 or 10 192 volt strings, with a 156 volt bus. Each converter would need to be capable of maybe between 40 and 100 amps, depending on your power level. Obviously, synchronizing them might be a bit of effort, but could this work? I would think buck for driving, boost for regen would make the most sense to me from an efficiency and minimizing switching loss point of view. Obviously the output capacitors on the bus would need to handle full ripple current of the motor and controller.
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--- Begin Message ---I'll be releasing them for general sale in about 4 weeks. John got to give me a feedback first... Victor Zeke Yewdall wrote:So... where do we get them? I want one. Z On 7/26/07, Joseph T. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:It's like the iphone, but for EVs. On 7/26/07, John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello to All, > > Just a short post (is that possible?) about last week's enlightening > time spent with Metric Mind's Victor Tichonov! I'm sure many have...
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--- Begin Message ---At 04:57 PM 7/27/2007, john fisher wrote:An advantage of forums that I haven't seen mentioned here is the real-time posting. With digests you get a cacophony of duplicate and out-of-order answers.Umm, that is only an advantage if you are crazy enough to use Digest mode.Most people I know just get each email as it comes in, which is "real-time" posting.-- John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
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--- Begin Message ---That may just mean they used more rubber and its probably a little heavier than a similarly sized tire. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Friday, July 27, 2007 11:38 am Subject: Re: Bridgestone Ecopia EP-03 Tires To: EV List <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu> > It was just brought to my attention that the Ecopia's > I'm trying to get are load rated 89S or 1279lbs! > That's a lot for a 14" tire. > > Rick > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Need a vacation? Get great deals > to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. > http://travel.yahoo.com/ > >
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--- Begin Message ---Hello Paul, You do not need the ring gear. It will just press off. For spacing any flywheel, go to a transmission shop and pick up a flywheel shim that fits between the motor coupler and flywheel. You get these shims in any thickness. Yes, you can thin down the flywheel if its made of forge steel, not cast. I have my flywheel reduce from 1.5 inch to about 3/4 inch. Most of this material was at the edge of the flywheel which was step to hole the ring gear. The center of the flywheel was at about 3/4 inch anyway. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 6:11 PM Subject: Re: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question > I see this is lacking responses. I don't have one apart at this time > but I have in the past... > > On Jul 24, 2007, at 11:59 PM, Mike Willmon wrote: > > > The stock flywheel seems to have to set down about ~3/8" into the > > housing with about an RCH clearance. I mean its pretty tight. > > The flywheel doesn't seem to be perfectly true or else the > > alignment holes are not prefectly true on center because it rubs the > > housing. We wound up trying 3 different flywheels as well as > > rotating them 90 degrees until just about the last one fit and > > didn't rub the side of the adaptor housing. So has anyone done a > > Bug that can tell us if the flywheel is supposed to sit down > > inside that housing, or are we mounting it in too far? If it is > > supposed to fit inside somewhat, is there any problem turning off > > the ring gear as well as .125" off the OD. > > The Beetle flywheel sits just *slightly* inside the stock engine > case. The amount is not very much, I don't think any part of the > flywheel is outside the face of the transaxle (in other words, its > inside by less than the thickness of the centering ring on the back > of the engine.) The ring gear should be completely inside the transaxle. > > You mentioned that one flywheel fit. You should make sure its not a > 180mm clutch flywheel. That's no fair and no good (they have enough > trouble with later stock VW engines, that's why VW went to a 200mm > clutch.) > > > While we got one iteration of our different fitments to work > > without rubbing I'm concerned that the weight of the motor hanging > > unsupported off the transaxle might set down on the flywheel > > causing it to rub again. Would .125" off the O.D. be sufficient > > clearance? > > Things here better not be moving! The Beetle had no problem hanging a > 247 lb. engine off the back of the transaxle. Shake, rattle, and > roll, it was never a problem (unless someone didn't tighten the > bolts!) When grinding out a 40HP tranny to fit a 200mm clutch > flywheel its not uncommon to stop grinding with only 0.01 inch of > clearance for the larger ring gear. > > HTH, > Paul "neon" Gooch > >
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--- Begin Message ---Hey Jim,I have dealt with tech support at Lester several times on non-SCR chargers. I would suggest giving them a call. Their main person at tech support is a great guy( I think his name is George) who answered all my stupid questions about using and troubleshooting a 20 year old Lester 120V charger that I was trying to use with nicads.He was kind enough to FAX me all the operating info plus a schematic and troubleshooting guide. Then he told me what pins to check for component testing over the phone. Their parts are relatively reasonable and are worth the price of the free support.I am sure he would be happy to answer your questions AND they occasionally have old stock and prototypes available.Lester makes a big heavy charger but it is relatively efficient and is a great domestic manufacturer to do business with!Tom
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--- Begin Message ---Curtis recommends a 750 ohm (25w) precharge resistor for a 1231C. Since it is permanently connected across the contacts of the main contactor, it seems like there would be a slow drain on the HV pack, even when the contactor is OPEN. What am I missing here? Roger Daisley Pullman, WA http://www.96-volt.com
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--- Begin Message ---Hey all Being that lots of folks made the trek to PIR for the Wayland invitational and being that it falls just a month before the Nationals, I feel it makes it a bit tougher to rally up the troops to come out and support the group again. As this is NEDRA's 10th year (a banner year at that!) anniversery I feel that it should be supported and recognized for the efforts made by those who have all helped to make doing an EV convertion better, faster, and safer by pushing things at the track and developing better ways to do things 8^) With that said I was hoping to do more than the small 6.7" motor that I try to donate to the NEDRA events 8^) but I didn't have anything I could part with larger than than a 6.7" 8^( Last week Wayland calls me up and tells me that Tim Brehm saw some motors in the scrap bin and shot him a call (my ears perk up and I'm like ooH, do tell 8^) Turns out John fetched out 5 motors for me! Four of these are 7.5" X 13" Crown drive motors, two are sep-ex and two are series wound. I'm going to be stuffing an L91 shaft (old ones out already) into one of the series wound motors and work it up so NEDRA can raffle it off 8^) For those wanting facts I took some measurements 8^P The armature is a 45 bar /slot and wound with .090 X .200 wire and the lamination body is 4.75" X 4.75". The coils are 12 turn wound with .070 X .500 wire. These Crowns are modeled after the ADC's and in fact use the same brushes and these are an 8 brushed motor. The total weight is 80 lbs. and is a lot more motor than the 50 lbs 6.7" I've been doing. Being that Tim and John look out for their little motor buddy (thanks guys 8^) they have allowed me to supply a lot nicer gift in support of the great work this orginazation has done 8^) In fact this should be looked at like a Plasma Torqued sponsored motor 8^o I'll be posting pics soon. It isn't an MTC but I've seen people using smaller motors than this in small cars, if nothing else it'd be a nice beefy MC motor although if Rod wins it it'll be on a scooter, LMAO. I hate to say it but I'm still not even a NEDRA member yet but I do what I can to help the guys out so they can try to at least make ends meet and I'm calling you all out to come help to 8^) I'll end with this, you do not need to be a racer to come out and help. In fact what I don't see is the daily driver clubs who might have pamplets to hand out to the public. Mike Willmon made some up and he was handing them out like crazy 8^) I'm guilty of this also though 8^( The people asking questions want to know about where and how they can learn about doing a daily driver. Here's where the racers "wow" them but there needs to be more advertising and instructions about how to and where to start than is there right now IMO. In short, if nothing else the more bodies that are there talking to the public the more we are heard 8^) I hope that this might help push anyone that's teetering on the fence on whether or not they will make the effort to attend, over to the attend side 8^) Somebody's going to be taking it home, why not you~! Hope to see EVeryone there. Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric ____________________________________________________________________________________ Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
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--- Begin Message ------ Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'll be releasing them for general sale in about 4 > weeks. > John got to give me a feedback first... > > Victor Hey Victor If it can survive Wayland you're golden 8^) I'm guessing you or Tim put it in or he'd have broke it already ;^) Congrats on developing what looks like an awesome unit, I wish you much success with it and it's a total win, win, for both you and EVeryone with an EV. Anyway I just got this picture of you as you pondered... who can I get to try and break it, LMAO! Just one answer, hehe. Cya Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric ____________________________________________________________________________________ Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. http://sims.yahoo.com/
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--- Begin Message ---Roland, I was the one that originally posed the question. The ring gear is cut into the flywheel, which apears to be forged. We'll have to turn the teeth off so I was wondering if it would hurt to turn down another .125" off the OD. This would still leave enough meat for the pressure plate bolts and prevent any rubbing of te flywheel on the adaptor plate.. To Paul's question back to me, all of the flywheels that Bart had are 200mm. Just one in particular didn't rub as much and we were able to tap the adaptor plate enough with a rubber mallet before we tightened it to get all the flywheel to clear the plate. It seems like maybe the holes inthe adaptor and/or the alighment bolts on the flywheel were a couple thou off. There was little (not much but a little) play in the adaptor plate before we tightened it onto the motor. It clears now so we'll see if it stays centered while its bouncing around unsupported off the back end. Thanks Mike, Anchorage, Ak. > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Behalf Of Roland Wiench > Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 4:55 PM > To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu > Subject: Re: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question > > > Hello Paul, > > You do not need the ring gear. It will just press off. For spacing any > flywheel, go to a transmission shop and pick up a flywheel shim that fits > between the motor coupler and flywheel. You get these shims in any > thickness. > > Yes, you can thin down the flywheel if its made of forge steel, not cast. I > have my flywheel reduce from 1.5 inch to about 3/4 inch. > Most of this material was at the edge of the flywheel which was step to hole > the ring gear. The center of the flywheel was at about 3/4 inch anyway. > > Roland >
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--- Begin Message ---I may have missed something in the emails flying by, but why is this called a raffle motor? Is it only available to those that attend the event? If not, here's my suggestion. Set up a NEDRA paypal account for those that can't attend, but are willing to contribute $5 or so bucks towards the raffle. There are hundreds of people on this list, and I would think many would be willing to put up some cash to win one of your motors Jim. Time to expand the bidding? Maybe Chip Gribben or somebody that has internet skills could make this raffle much bigger and more exciting to the people on this list! Maybe we could even have an extra check box like the DMV that contributes to John's bigger lithium pack? Thanks, Rod --- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hey all > > Being that lots of folks made the trek to PIR for > the > Wayland invitational and being that it falls just a > month before the Nationals, I feel it makes it a bit > tougher to rally up the troops to come out and > support > the group again. As this is NEDRA's 10th year (a > banner year at that!) anniversery I feel that it > should be supported and recognized for the efforts > made by those who have all helped to make doing an > EV > convertion better, faster, and safer by pushing > things > at the track and developing better ways to do things > 8^) > > With that said I was hoping to do more than the > small > 6.7" motor that I try to donate to the NEDRA events > 8^) but I didn't have anything I could part with > larger than than a 6.7" 8^( > > Last week Wayland calls me up and tells me that Tim > Brehm saw some motors in the scrap bin and shot him > a > call (my ears perk up and I'm like ooH, do tell 8^) > Turns out John fetched out 5 motors for me! Four of > these are 7.5" X 13" Crown drive motors, two are > sep-ex and two are series wound. I'm going to be > stuffing an L91 shaft (old ones out already) into > one > of the series wound motors and work it up so NEDRA > can > raffle it off 8^) > > For those wanting facts I took some measurements 8^P > The armature is a 45 bar /slot and wound with .090 X > .200 wire and the lamination body is 4.75" X 4.75". > The coils are 12 turn wound with .070 X .500 wire. > These Crowns are modeled after the ADC's and in fact > use the same brushes and these are an 8 brushed > motor. > The total weight is 80 lbs. and is a lot more motor > than the 50 lbs 6.7" I've been doing. > > Being that Tim and John look out for their little > motor buddy (thanks guys 8^) they have allowed me to > supply a lot nicer gift in support of the great work > this orginazation has done 8^) In fact this should > be > looked at like a Plasma Torqued sponsored motor 8^o > > I'll be posting pics soon. It isn't an MTC but I've > seen people using smaller motors than this in small > cars, if nothing else it'd be a nice beefy MC motor > although if Rod wins it it'll be on a scooter, LMAO. > I hate to say it but I'm still not even a NEDRA > member > yet but I do what I can to help the guys out so they > can try to at least make ends meet and I'm calling > you > all out to come help to 8^) > > I'll end with this, you do not need to be a racer to > come out and help. In fact what I don't see is the > daily driver clubs who might have pamplets to hand > out > to the public. Mike Willmon made some up and he was > handing them out like crazy 8^) I'm guilty of this > also though 8^( > > The people asking questions want to know about where > and how they can learn about doing a daily driver. > Here's where the racers "wow" them but there needs > to > be more advertising and instructions about how to > and > where to start than is there right now IMO. In > short, > if nothing else the more bodies that are there > talking > to the public the more we are heard 8^) > > I hope that this might help push anyone that's > teetering on the fence on whether or not they will > make the effort to attend, over to the attend side > 8^) > > Somebody's going to be taking it home, why not you~! > Hope to see EVeryone there. > Jim Husted > Hi-Torque Electric > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Got a little couch potato? > Check out fun summer activities for kids. > http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz > > >
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--- Begin Message ---I'd certainly buy a ticket or two..... Not that I've ever, ever won anything in my life, someone make this happen. --- Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I may have missed something in the emails flying by, > but why is this called a raffle motor? Is it only > available to those that attend the event? If not, > here's my suggestion. > Set up a NEDRA paypal account for those that can't > attend, but are willing to contribute $5 or so bucks > towards the raffle. There are hundreds of people on > this list, and I would think many would be willing > to > put up some cash to win one of your motors Jim. > Time > to expand the bidding? > Maybe Chip Gribben or somebody that has internet > skills could make this raffle much bigger and more > exciting to the people on this list! Maybe we could > even have an extra check box like the DMV that > contributes to John's bigger lithium pack? > Thanks, > Rod > --- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Hey all > > > > Being that lots of folks made the trek to PIR for > > the > > Wayland invitational and being that it falls just > a > > month before the Nationals, I feel it makes it a > bit > > tougher to rally up the troops to come out and > > support > > the group again. As this is NEDRA's 10th year (a > > banner year at that!) anniversery I feel that it > > should be supported and recognized for the efforts > > made by those who have all helped to make doing an > > EV > > convertion better, faster, and safer by pushing > > things > > at the track and developing better ways to do > things > > 8^) > > > > With that said I was hoping to do more than the > > small > > 6.7" motor that I try to donate to the NEDRA > events > > 8^) but I didn't have anything I could part with > > larger than than a 6.7" 8^( > > > > Last week Wayland calls me up and tells me that > Tim > > Brehm saw some motors in the scrap bin and shot > him > > a > > call (my ears perk up and I'm like ooH, do tell > 8^) > > Turns out John fetched out 5 motors for me! Four > of > > these are 7.5" X 13" Crown drive motors, two are > > sep-ex and two are series wound. I'm going to be > > stuffing an L91 shaft (old ones out already) into > > one > > of the series wound motors and work it up so NEDRA > > can > > raffle it off 8^) > > > > For those wanting facts I took some measurements > 8^P > > The armature is a 45 bar /slot and wound with .090 > X > > .200 wire and the lamination body is 4.75" X > 4.75". > > The coils are 12 turn wound with .070 X .500 wire. > > > These Crowns are modeled after the ADC's and in > fact > > use the same brushes and these are an 8 brushed > > motor. > > The total weight is 80 lbs. and is a lot more > motor > > than the 50 lbs 6.7" I've been doing. > > > > Being that Tim and John look out for their little > > motor buddy (thanks guys 8^) they have allowed me > to > > supply a lot nicer gift in support of the great > work > > this orginazation has done 8^) In fact this > should > > be > > looked at like a Plasma Torqued sponsored motor > 8^o > > > > I'll be posting pics soon. It isn't an MTC but > I've > > seen people using smaller motors than this in > small > > cars, if nothing else it'd be a nice beefy MC > motor > > although if Rod wins it it'll be on a scooter, > LMAO. > > I hate to say it but I'm still not even a NEDRA > > member > > yet but I do what I can to help the guys out so > they > > can try to at least make ends meet and I'm calling > > you > > all out to come help to 8^) > > > > I'll end with this, you do not need to be a racer > to > > come out and help. In fact what I don't see is > the > > daily driver clubs who might have pamplets to hand > > out > > to the public. Mike Willmon made some up and he > was > > handing them out like crazy 8^) I'm guilty of > this > > also though 8^( > > > > The people asking questions want to know about > where > > and how they can learn about doing a daily driver. > > > Here's where the racers "wow" them but there needs > > to > > be more advertising and instructions about how to > > and > > where to start than is there right now IMO. In > > short, > > if nothing else the more bodies that are there > > talking > > to the public the more we are heard 8^) > > > > I hope that this might help push anyone that's > > teetering on the fence on whether or not they will > > make the effort to attend, over to the attend side > > 8^) > > > > Somebody's going to be taking it home, why not > you~! > > Hope to see EVeryone there. > > Jim Husted > > Hi-Torque Electric > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > > Got a little couch potato? > > Check out fun summer activities for kids. > > > http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz > > > > > > > >
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--- Begin Message ---G'day AllFirst up: Maritime College project motor (I sponsored a student project of the Australian Maritime College by re-building a motor with lots of sensors and fields able to be reconfigured three ways).We've had it on a pony brake dyno (a manually operated disc brake with a newtons-scale meter on it to determine torque). The motor was able to drive the scale to about 3.6kW out at about 75% efficiency (although the readings were a bit quick so a better statement would be 70 to 80% efficiency). Far too much for the poor disk brake, so only 30 seconds run at a time.The motor has a pair of boat 'bilge blowers' as the cooling. Rotor heat is a lot more than fields, going by the short runs we had. A clear window where the brush timing lever sticks out really shows the effect of moving the timing (like at 250A and neutral timing shows arcing from the edge of the brush holder to the comm riser, due to a close clearance from part of the modifications, goes away when the timing is advanced).Their techs are out of time so they're paying me to wire up the control system, but they've dumped other problems on me to sort out (like supplying a wooden box with a flap lid to put it into, then saying "do what you need to without spending too much.." Aaargh, they've just blown the budget by needing to buy/build a real box!)Second (re-starting of a previous thought path)For their boat I've knocked up a 'pot-box' by taking the gearbox off a little laboratory pump, in order to rotate a pot all the way from a limited rotation arm.This brings me back to an earlier thought of designing a kit of bits that can be lazer cut to assemble a potbox from, with holes in all the right places to assemble left or right handed, limit switches when/where needed, etc.As I see it the limitations of a Curtis-type potbox are as follows: * There is a requirement for a special pot* there is nowhere on the potbox to attach the sheath (outer) of the control cable * you have to decide ahead of time as to left or right handed, with or without a limit switch * the lever arm pick-up point is a "pick-a-hole" which may not get ideal positioning, although I haven't heard anyone comment on this.For my "kit" design I would look at:* Since it would only rotate the pot a maximum of 90 degrees, for a Zilla (which needs three wires) a suitable automotive throttle-body pot would be needed. For a Curtis (which needs two wires) instead of a 5k pot rotating 270 degrees, a 20k pot rotated 67.5 degrees or a 25k pot rotated 54 degrees will do instead. The kit parts would have holes to install whatever was needed, although I haven't worked out the requirements for a throttle-body pot yet. * holes to insert end-of-travel stops to suit the various pot rotation requirements * the lever arm would have a series of slots rather than holes to attach the cable to (or just a series of holes that are in two or three lines, close enough together so that they overlap a little) * The kit design would include a 'horn' either as part of the front plate, or mountable to it, that gives a place to attach the cable outer to, possibly slotted with a clamp to get a good alignment to the lever arm and * a second 'horn' to connect the return spring to with a set of holes to hook the springs into (so that the user can find easily-found extension springs to use to set the throttle "weight" rather than an around-in-a-circle spring to set the return 'weight' * pre-positioned holes to mount standard miniature type micro switches in various locations for zero throttle and full throttle mounting when requiredAs a one-off it'd be a bit expensive, but if I can sell/trade others it'd be worth while.Comments/opinions/4" x 2"? Regards[Technik] James
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--- Begin Message ------ Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Maybe we could > even have an extra check box like the DMV that > contributes to John's bigger lithium pack? > Thanks, > Rod I like this idea! It would be nice to have a couple hundred more pounds of A123's for traction and 1400 additional amps to feed a second Z2K. Too bad we had to give them back to Bill. Tim ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
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--- Begin Message ---Hello Mike, I just went to measure the pressure plate hole in my flywheel to the edge of the fly wheel. It now reads 0.29 inches. The edge of the pressure plate is right at the edge of the flywheel. So to go more, a person would have to bolt on the pressure plate and turn down both together. I would say that another 0.125 inch off may work. The bolt holes on my large flange coupler on the motor is only 0.0626 from the edge of the coupler and it held up for over 30 years now. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 8:18 PM Subject: RE: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question > Roland, > I was the one that originally posed the question. The ring gear is cut > into the flywheel, which apears to be forged. We'll have > to turn the teeth off so I was wondering if it would hurt to turn down > another .125" off the OD. This would still leave enough > meat for the pressure plate bolts and prevent any rubbing of te flywheel > on the adaptor plate.. > > To Paul's question back to me, all of the flywheels that Bart had are > 200mm. Just one in particular didn't rub as much and we > were able to tap the adaptor plate enough with a rubber mallet before we > tightened it to get all the flywheel to clear the plate. > It seems like maybe the holes inthe adaptor and/or the alighment bolts on > the flywheel were a couple thou off. There was little > (not much but a little) play in the adaptor plate before we tightened it > onto the motor. It clears now so we'll see if it stays > centered while its bouncing around unsupported off the back end. > Thanks > Mike, > Anchorage, Ak. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Behalf Of Roland Wiench > > Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 4:55 PM > > To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu > > Subject: Re: Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question > > > > > > Hello Paul, > > > > You do not need the ring gear. It will just press off. For spacing any > > flywheel, go to a transmission shop and pick up a flywheel shim that > > fits > > between the motor coupler and flywheel. You get these shims in any > > thickness. > > > > Yes, you can thin down the flywheel if its made of forge steel, not > > cast. I > > have my flywheel reduce from 1.5 inch to about 3/4 inch. > > Most of this material was at the edge of the flywheel which was step to > > hole > > the ring gear. The center of the flywheel was at about 3/4 inch anyway. > > > > Roland > > > >
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--- Begin Message ---Oh, I am SOOOOO there! On Jul 27, 2007, at 6:59 PM, Jim Husted wrote:With that said I was hoping to do more than the small 6.7" motor that I try to donate to the NEDRA events 8^) but I didn't have anything I could part with larger than than a 6.7" 8^( Last week Wayland calls me up and tells me that Tim Brehm saw some motors in the scrap bin and shot him a call (my ears perk up and I'm like ooH, do tell 8^) Turns out John fetched out 5 motors for me! Four of these are 7.5" X 13" Crown drive motors, two are sep-ex and two are series wound. I'm going to be stuffing an L91 shaft (old ones out already) into one of the series wound motors and work it up so NEDRA can raffle it off 8^)Well, I was there anyway and now my arm is hurting (quit twisting so hard ;-)Paul
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--- Begin Message ---Hey Chip, Brian, FT You boys got your ears on? This is (will be) NEDRA's motor to do as they see fit. Couple of issues to address though if it went to a don't have to be present to win raffle. One, it lets you lazy bums sit on the couch reading posts and not come out and have some fun, LMAO 8^P Another is, it'd have to end before the event so if the winner is present he doesn't have to wait and occur freight etc. Freight would have to come from winner or maybe NEDRA if they just raked in the bucks by the wheelbarrows 8^) And last, how to combine the online and present tickets and draw the winner. None of these are to big an issue but would need to be addressed and a NEDRA body would need to take charge of this. As stated, this could bring far more dollars in for NEDRA if they are into it. If this doesn't pan out for this event maybe I'll offer one later that could be an online only raffle as a thought. Hell I wish I had a motor this nice to play with 8^) EVery time I build one up some bastard comes along and takes it from me 8^( For those who say they never win anything though, I won an awesome Ebike that Brian Hall had brought up to raffle at the event last year 8^) Never know if you don't go 8^P Anyway thanks for the ideas and support! In fact no one from NEDRA has contacted me for this years sponsoring so I'm getting the cart in front of the horse being they're slow asses 8^o at least when they aren't on the track 8^) Cya Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric --- Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'd certainly buy a ticket or two..... Not that I've > ever, ever won anything in my life, someone make > this > happen. > > > --- Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I may have missed something in the emails flying > by, > > but why is this called a raffle motor? Is it only > > available to those that attend the event? If not, > > here's my suggestion. > > Set up a NEDRA paypal account for those that can't > > attend, but are willing to contribute $5 or so > bucks > > towards the raffle. There are hundreds of people > on > > this list, and I would think many would be willing > > to > > put up some cash to win one of your motors Jim. > > Time > > to expand the bidding? > > Maybe Chip Gribben or somebody that has internet > > skills could make this raffle much bigger and more > > exciting to the people on this list! Maybe we > could > > even have an extra check box like the DMV that > > contributes to John's bigger lithium pack? > > Thanks, > > Rod ____________________________________________________________________________________ Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
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--- Begin Message ---Tire rolling resistance relative to width. Because the narrower tire ends up with more weight per square inch and an therefore a larger flatspot and higher force to multiply by the friction coeffient it tends to balance out with the narrower but longer patch. But a large change either direction from optimal is noticable. My friends raced a highly prepared honda civic in SCCA with cantaliver tires. These 2 brothers did this as a hobby after their first jobs of being on the NISSAN race team (1 driver, 1 mechanic type) Anyhow, they really did a lot of testing. The wider tires add wind resistance and rotateing mass and wouldn't warm up and stick, the narrower tires were over heated and slid around to much. Their was an optimum point. Test it. :-( The key to a low rolling resistance tire is not as simple as people assume. Mainly a more flexible rubber that doesn't just rub off by adding silica, the ability to be kept rounder with more air pressure without being made stiffer by using a higher thread count of more flexible threads in the casing and a diagonal ply arrangement on the side-walls to allow them to flex without absorbing too much energy. As the tire goes around the side walls are forced to flex and unflex and the road pushing against the rolling tire forming a teardrop distortion that adds drag. The addition of silica also gives the rubber an interesting property kinda like old car wax in reverse. As it is sheared off,it's coefficient of friction increases. The Caseing is really important, it is a waste of time to put fancy rubber on a poor foundation. Once you have a good foundation they even have tried variable chemistries in a tire. a stripe down the center having a higher silica content than the edges. As brakes are applied or the vehicle corners hard, the grip goes up. Ground level Ozone hurts rubber. What use to last 10 years lasts 5 now! DOT* Race tires where it really matters are wrapped, are almost not saleable after a year. They and usully mounted and shaved on a lathe before use(this takes of about 1/2 the tread, getting rid of the rubber on the surface that is contaminated with mold release and makes the tread stiffer so it lasts longer. go figure) DOT* Department of transportation. Tires approved for use on roads but have really soft rubber on them and are used for SCCA racing.
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--- Begin Message ---At 06:22 PM 27/07/07 -0700, Roger Daisley wrote:Curtis recommends a 750 ohm (25w) precharge resistor for a 1231C. Since it is permanently connected across the contacts of the main contactor, it seems like there would be a slow drain on the HV pack, even when the contactor is OPEN. What am I missing here?G'day RogerThe Curtis instructions are essentially the minimum needed to see out the warranty period. For safety you should have a contactor in the B- cable (switched directly from the 'ignition'), and a relay in the precharge resistor lead that is controlled the same. B+ contactor needs to be turned on after pre-charge time.Many (if not the majority) of Curtis controllers are in forklifts and similar equipment where the batteries are unplugged from the equipment and plugged into the charger at the end of each day - so the 'resistor across the contacts' method is no problem.One way of controlling the B+ contactor is with a latching relay that is turned on by the "start" position of the 'ignition' key, dropped out when you turn the 'ignition' off.View with fixed-width font: +12V Start |_____ +12V | 'ignition' | | ____|__ | |_ | | __| @|| o | | @|| \ | | _@|| o o | | | |_______| | | | 12V | neg | |________ @|| B+ @|| contactor _@|| coil | 12V negAnother way is to build an automatic pre-charge module that turns on the B+ contactor once the voltage across the resistor is below a certain voltage. I'm in process of adapting a design that Otmar was kind enough to send me that he used to make for Curtis controllers. The adapting is to make it to be available as a kit or pre-built module - but don't hold your breath for it, though, as it's an as-when job so may not be ready for months yet.Hope this helps Regards[Technik] James
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--- Begin Message ---I had talked with them early, when they would talk to us normal people. and Since then,via email, to the factory in china that claims to make the cells for them until they get their own plant going and in both conversations they have said Lithium-Iron-Phosphate. But it is easier than this to check. Get out your voltmeter. Lithium cobalt 3.6Vnominal 4.25Max charge Lithium Iron Phosphate 3.2-3.4 3.7 max charge (Easy to tell) Lithium-magenese 3.7-3.8 Nominal 4.2Max charge (ok, hard to tell compared to cobalt) http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-5A.htm
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--- Begin Message ------ Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Set up a NEDRA paypal account for those that can't > attend, but are willing to contribute $5 or so bucks > towards the raffle. There are hundreds of people on > this list, and I would think many would be willing to > put up some cash to win one of your motors Jim. Time > to expand the bidding? I'm in! On race day print the list of online bidders and have some one fill out raffle ticket. Then throw them in the hat with the rest. Dave Cover
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