At the risk of being called lace police there is no need to use support pins, they have to be placed very accurately not to show later. However the way I was taught by Anne-Marie to do an input is not quite what is shown in a colour working diagram. As I can't post a picture here I will try and describe:
- work through all the passives except the last one (the inner ring pair) - cloth the last passive (the inner ring pair) with the first pair from the input - take the worker in cloth through both these pairs - take the unused (lower) pair at the input and use this as your new worker across the row The tensioning seems very strange at first but you can tension back against the pin with this method much easier and you don't need to support anything with extra pins. You reverse this for an output. You can see this method in some old Binche laces Susan -------------------------------------------------- Susan Roberts Website: www.susanroberts.info > On 4 Feb 2017, at 18:20, Anita Hansen <purplelace...@hotmail.com> wrote: > > I saw Jo's post on her Binche sampler and comment about tension problems in > cloth areas because of no support pins. I left a reply for her about how I > use them. I decided I might as well "come out" here publicly and declare it > as well. I use support pins in my cloth areas. And I DON'T care what the > lace police think of it! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
