Hi Susan Iâm fairly sure Iâve got that book somewhere but itâs not on the shelf I expected to find it!
The logarithmic lace which I did a while ago was a combination of theory and winging it when it came to choosing the thread. Theory wise go for the mid-range, but err towards thicker rather than finer; go for the thickest that can be squeezed into the closest parts without it wrinkling or âtwipperingâ. Thatâs a term I learned from the late Sue Willoughby who had learned from an elderly aunt who in turn had learned towards the end of the 19th century. Itâs what happens in Bedfordshire trails when the thread is too thick. Also consider that loosely spun threads such as machine embroidery, perle and a lot of spun silk will squash down better than tightly spun thread, and they will also relax and spread out in the places where the pins are furthest apart. Those threads though will make a soft lace. Depending on the pattern, you might be able to introduce extra twists or a heavier ground in the most open areas. If the difference in scale is very noticeable it might be better to plan for the piece to be mounted in a frame rather than free standing. HTH Brenda > Hello All! Embarking on yet another lace adventure, I realized I needed to ask a thread question before diving in. Has anyone worked the Jane Atkinson edging on pg 3 of Lace Guild's "Logarithmic Lace" book? I'm curious how one selects a thread size for something like this because of the changing distances between pins. Should I stick with Brenda's method for Selecting Correct Thread Size (in Threads for Lace)? Or wing it? I'd like to work a small piece to include in the "contemporary lace" portion of our next lace exhibit. Many thanks for any advice. Sincerely, Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com www.brendapaternoster.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
