sacw
Mon, 06 Jun 2005 18:45:13 -0700
South Asia Citizens Wire | 7 June, 2005[Interruption Notice: There will be no SACW dispatches between the period 8 - 12 may 2005 ]
[1] Nukes' seventh anniversary - South Asia's misfortunes (M B Naqvi) [2] Pakistan: Musharraf is losing his grip (Ahmed Rashid) [3] Things Sufi - the informal sector of faith - A Sufi resurgence in Punjab (Annie Zaidi) - Kashmir searches for its lost Sufi music (Sheikh Mushtaq)[4] Pakistan-India Peoples' Forum for Peace and Democracy Convention (Pune, June 10 to June 12)
[5] Book Review: The Road to 'Animal Farm,' Through Burma (William Grimes) ______ [1] The News International June 6, 2005 Nukes' seventh anniversary-IV South Asia's misfortunes M B NaqviSouth Asia's future has been jeopardized by the Indian and Pakistani nukes, politically and possibly physically, depending upon whether there will be a nuclear war between the two. India and Pakistan's neighbours have no option but to helplessly wait for what will happen. Nepal, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Maldives and Bhutan resent being adversely affected whether there is a war or not.
The misfortunes non-nuclear countries continue to face, even if there is no war, have to do with the function of mistrust between India and Pakistan. The current deluge of protocol goodwill and fomenting a feel good factor by the two governments -- under American prodding -- has not removed their mistrust. Which South Asian country can ignore it? Their worry is reasonable.
Pakistani nuclear missiles are ready to be fired at Indian targets. If they are fired, a few cities in India will be incinerated. And it will take only a few minutes to destroy Pakistan if the Indian nukes are fired in this direction. Neither side will have the time for defensives measures. During the east-west cold war, there were 27 minutes available for decisions. Both sides could read blips on their radars as missiles or geese or some debris. In South Asia, a missile's flying time to its target is 3 to 5 minutes. No government can react in this timeframe and the scope for misunderstanding, wrong calculations and unauthorized launches by power-hungry groups or terrorists in both countries cannot be ignored.
Even if there is no war between the two adversaries and the present no-peace-no-war situation continues, South Asians' future remains compromised -- because the Indo-Pakistan mistrust pre-empts optimal regional cooperation. The fact is India and Pakistan have to remain at hair-trigger alert. And if war does break out, some radioactivity is bound to fall on neighbours, who will suffer for no fault of their own. For non-nuclear South Asians, both sets of nukes are a misfortune, requiring efforts to destroy them.
Some argue that EU is an example of regional cooperation and integration to follow. Two EU members are nuclear powers, France and Britain. What is the rationale for the French and British nukes? Apart from national grandeur or the desire to sit at the high table, the French and the British nukes are a strategic insurance policy against the resurrection of German power. The Anglo-French nukes only make sense if Germany's aggressive instincts are assumed a priori.
Modern Germany accepts this Anglo-French apprehension and has chosen against ever becoming a nationalist or isolationist power. It has consciously anchored its revival in European entity -- away from pan-Germanic ideas that led to three aggressions uptil 1939. Germany is happy to stay non-nuclear; Germans see their future in peace and look upon French and British nukes with part-unconcern and part-curiosity. So the EU example clearly does not apply to South Asia.
Here, unlike Europe, the two nuclear powers look upon each other as bitter adversaries. About India there may still be a few illusions that once it becomes a world power with American support: it may still promote peace in Asia by cultivating Russia, China and other Central Asians simultaneously. Insofar as Pakistan is concerned, it has yoked itself irretrievably to the USA. It will do what America wants, without ifs and buts. Since both countries listen to the USA with respect, they will be able to put in place many more confidence building measures (CBMs), while the main disputes may remain unresolved. Such a situation is fundamentally unstable: some public relations-oriented cultural exchanges may coexist with no basic change of orientation.
Other South Asians need to exhibit their preference for peace: one that promotes rapprochement between India and Pakistan, based on a resolution of disputes -- Kashmir, nukes and dams. Without resolving disputes, the resumption of hostile propaganda is just waiting to happen. Both are capable of resuming confrontation. India and Pakistan being differently oriented, how can South Asians read the deepening of détente by CBMs as making Pakistan and India lasting friends? Why does a true Indo-Pakistan rapprochement look difficult? Obviously what stands in the way, are serious disputes.
This exposes the current peace process as shallow. Why? Because it leaves out basic and highly emotional disputes. Thus fears of a possible war are not unwarranted in the rest of South Asia. It is for the Indians and Pakistanis to prove that there would be no war. They have to show this by the success of their Peace Process. And while one could assert that Kashmir is likely to be left aside, and eventually disregarded, this will not happen to the nukes. They cannot be ignored. The very presence of nukes in India is an incentive to Pakistan to remain nuclear. If Pakistan remains nuclear, India's nuclear disarmament is impossible. Both also want to utilise nukes for their advancement: one wants permanent membership of the UNSC and the other wants to be a leader of Islamic countries.
The question of questions is what sort of Peace Process will, or can, succeed between India and Pakistan? There are forces in both societies that favour a lasting peace. Both governments have recognised popular pressures for peace. Both have called this peace process irreversible. But it is not, though it should be made so. Hitherto both bureaucracies have kept the peace process under strict control. Not one step has been taken that can enable popular aspirations and yearnings to reduce that control. The Establishments running both states refuse to permit socio-economic realities free play. The Establishments importantly include local versions of industrial-military complexes that require hostility between India and Pakistan.
The two contending forces are the entrenched establishments in both countries and common popular yearnings to be friends and ensuring peace and cooperation between the two countries. Which will succeed and when? Possibly, the popular sentiments will someday overwhelm the two establishments to make up and do the right thing about their nukes.
The democratic and peace lobby has to clear the road to nuclear disarmament to make South Asia a Nuclear Weapons Free Zone. But when will popular forces overwhelm the establishments? It is not likely to be soon. The peace process is rather unsteady, due to entrenched vested interests in both countries. So far the two bureaucracies have had the last laugh; the visa regime is still restricted. Real concessions continue to elude us.
South Asians do not deserve this Democle's sword over their heads. They are peace loving and cannot be accused of doing anything to disturb international peace. If there is an India-Pakistan war, it is sure to affect them adversely, as well as their ecology and climate, including radioactive rains and other long term consequences.
Even the present no-war-no-peace between India and Pakistan is adversely affecting South Asians -- because so long as India-Pakistan confrontation lasts, there will be no real regional cooperation and eventual integration.
South Asians need regional grids of communications, power, oil and gas, weather forecasting, investments and free trade, more cultural exchanges, regional arrangements to watch over human rights violations and maybe regional courts to enforce human rights and so forth. Regarding the starry-eyed idealism of today, power brokers in India and Pakistan will say is unrealistic. The Establishments have to preserve conditions in which they enjoy large budgets, respect and autonomy. That promises advancement and riches to powerbrokers. Other South Asians must get involved and help the embattled peace lobbies of Pakistan and India in the common cause of peace and progress for the sake of their people.
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[2]
International Herald Tribune
June 2, 2005
MUSHARRAF IS LOSING HIS GRIP
by Ahmed Rashid
LAHORE, Pakistan When Pakistan
announced the arrest of a senior Al Qaeda
operative last month, it was another feather in
the cap of President Pervez Musharraf, with
President George W. Bush describing the capture
as "a critical victory in the war on terror."
Musharraf's peace overtures toward India and
criticism of Islamic extremism have also won high
praise abroad, especially in Washington, which in
March awarded him with a supply of F-16 fighter
jets. But Musharraf's growing international
standing is at odds with his faltering position
at home.
His government is unraveling under the twin pressures of Islamic fundamentalists whom he refuses to resist and political opponents whom he harasses and jails. In April, thousands of members of the Pakistan People's Party were arrested to prevent big rallies for one of the party's leaders, Asif Ali Zardari. The Pakistan People's Party has been effectively sidelined since Musharraf took over in a military coup in 1999. Zardari - here for a visit from Dubai, where he lives in exile with his wife, former Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto - says he wants to test Musharraf's promises to restore genuine democracy.
The crackdown on the party is in sharp contrast to the extent to which the government has bowed to the demands of a coalition of six Islamic fundamentalist parties, even though many of these same fundamentalists consider Musharraf too secular and demand his resignation. The government has recently accepted the fundamentalists' demands that it stop men and women from running marathons together, and that it delay reform of the Islamic schools called madrassas, as well as efforts to amend laws on blasphemy and to curb honor killings.
Meanwhile, the civilian government brought to power by the military in 2002 after what many international monitors considered to be a rigged election has failed to deliver what Musharraf desired - a coherent and effective civilian facade for the military, which actually runs the country. Instead, the ruling party, the Pakistan Muslim League, is riven by factionalism, and Parliament is often forced to suspend business because it lacks a quorum.
Shaukat Aziz, the third prime minister since 2002, is a former finance minister who has no political experience and is too beholden to the army to be an effective political leader. Challenged by its own ineptitude and by those parties demanding democracy, the Muslim League finds it convenient to pander to the fundamentalists, who are strong enough to keep the democrats at bay.
Musharraf's problems are compounded by insurgencies in the provinces. In Baluchistan, separatists are demanding greater autonomy and control over their natural resources. For the past three months the country's largest gas fields have been besieged by the separatists.
In North-West Frontier Province, a neo-Taliban resistance against the army continues with the return of Afghan and Pakistani Taliban who have been recently trained in Iraq. In the southern province of Sind there is growing alienation because of interethnic strife, increased criminality and corruption and tensions between the majority Sindhis and the central government.
The only answer to the domestic problems now tearing the country apart is more democracy - in particular a free and fair election in which the political elements that have been disenfranchised since 1999 get a political stake in determining the country's future. The next few months will be crunch time for the army, the Americans, the mullahs and the political parties. All the major players know that the present political situation under Musharraf is unsustainable.
It is time that the world sat up and took notice of events in Pakistan, because with 160 million people, nuclear weapons and a myriad of Islamic extremist groups still operating openly, Pakistan remains critical to regional and global stability.
(Ahmed Rashid is the author of ''Taliban'' and, most recently, ''Jihad: The Rise of Militant Islam in Central Asia.'')
_______ [3] Frontline June 03, 2005 A SUFI RESURGENCE Annie Zaidi in JalandharThe sudden spurt of interest in all things Sufi in Punjab is seen not merely as an assertion of marginalised people but also as a recognition of Sufism's secular ethos.
Bibi Channi Shah, the master at the Sufi Pind in Hoshiarpur, was named by her guru as his successor..
IT is only when you visit the region called Doab in Punjab that you begin to understand Sufism and its impact on a country as diverse as India. This is the land where `cultural confluence' is a reality as solid as the Sufi tombs dotting the rural landscape. Images and symbols are seamlessly interwoven without any obvious sign of conflict.
It is this improbable magic of a unique socio-cultural tradition and the complex political situation that makes this possible that has been captured in Ajay Bhardwaj's documentary film Kitte Mil ve Mahi (Where the Twain Meet). Indeed, the twain do seem to meet.
There are temple bells hanging in one dargah. In another, the keeper of the shrine raises his hands in Islamic prayer - hands that are tattooed with the `Om' symbol.
The Sufi lineage in Punjab cuts across religions, for it does not matter what caste or religion one is born into. Once blessed by the Guru, a disciple takes on the name of the Guru, as well as his place, known as the gaddi (seat).
And yet, it was injustice and intolerance that first fuelled Sufism, and is now, perhaps, leading to its resurgence.
The history of Sufism is linked inextricably to Dalits and other marginalised sections of society.
Bhardwaj is aware that his film is not about the Sufi tradition alone. "The trigger was the understanding of Punjabi history in the past century. We think of three major milestones - Partition, the Green Revolution, and 1984. But parallel alternative realities have been ignored. The Dalit reality, the Sufi reality, has been made invisible. And as you will see in the film, there are moments when some Dalits refuse to talk about their own oppression. Part of the reality of marginalisation is that they stay silent. Despite all our talk of empowerment and reform laws, they fear too many repercussions. Two years ago, Talhan was the scene of a major confrontation between Dalits and Jats, and this was over the issue of management of a shrine. The film is set in the same cultural landscape."
Baba Bhagat Singh Bilkha believes that anyone who is against caste and for humanity is a Sufi.
The socio-cultural traditions are significant in a State such as Punjab, where the percentage of Dalits in the State's population (according to the 1991 Census) is 28.31 per cent, as compared to 16.48 per cent for the average in India.
One sees how powerful a Sufi symbol can be when one meets Najjar Shah, the caretaker of the shrine of Baba Choor Shah in Jalandhar.
Najjar Shah, who is 81 years old, is not only the current guru, but also a cobbler. He sits outside the dargah and mends shoes for a living. He said: "We trace our lineage from Ravidas Maharaj, who was also a Balmiki and a cobbler. I used to work as a mason on construction sites. But when I became a devotee of Baba Choor Shah, he told me I ought to become a cobbler. If Ravidas did not feel any shame, why should I?"
Bhardwaj explained: "It is a powerful statement. He won't collect money, not even for the urs (the annual fair), because begging is not part of Sufi tradition. By turning into a cobbler, he is affirming his Chamaar identity."
Ravidas, Kabir, Brahmdass and a host of other Sufi saints in Punjab were from the oppressed castes and stood for their own rights. This tradition continues; for example, at the site of Brahmdass' tomb, his successor is running an English medium school for Dalits. A powerful statement is also made by Bibi Channi Shah, the current murshid (master/guru) at Sufi Pind in Hoshiarpur. She traces her lineage to Brahmdass and Pritamdass. She recalls that her guru had once told her he would hang her up on the highest hook. "I had no clue that this is what he meant, that he would name me his successor."
The fact that a woman was named a Sufi saint's successor was a rare event, and the aura of power and equality around Bibi Channi Shah is evident, as she smokes a hookah, keeps hunter-dogs as pets and blesses lakhs of devotees each year.
Bhagat Singh Bilkha, now 98 years old, president of the Deshbhakt Yaadgaar Committee and formerly a member of the Ghadar party, believes that anyone who is against caste and for humanity is a Sufi. "In my own village, we have a mazaar called Miyan ka Dera. The gaddi went to Rang Shah, who was Muslim, and to Natha Singh, a Sikh, and to Shiv Kumar, a Hindu. Sufism is rooted in secularism."
He quotes an Urdu couplet to explain: "Aye Ishq kahin le chal, ye dair-o-haram chore,
in dono makaano mein jhagdaa nazar aata hai (Come, love, let us turn away from both temple and mosque; between these two houses, there is an on-going feud). Bulle Shah, Baba Fareed, Shah Hussain, Namdev, Baba Nanak, Kabir - all Sufis. This legacy is being destroyed, unfortunately. Powerful people are misusing spirituality by dragging people away from their true faith."
In prayer outside a dargah.The impact of Sufism in Punjab, as it exists now, is highly debated. Lal Singh `Dil', a noted writer, said: "Sufism doesn't solve anything. It favours Dalits, though, because of their need for a place of refuge." He added: "Sufism can be defined as a critique of society. That was the root. Although Sufi songs are nice to bond over, they must not be de-contextualised. The logic of this Sufi tradition lies in non-Brahmanical culture, and not in secularism."
Punjabi journalist and writer Desraj Kali adds a twist to the tale. "These places are the scene of cultural-literary marginalisation. Gurdwaras used to be like community centres, but no longer. After the Green Revolution, land-value went up. Community land was captured."
This is most in evidence in Noor Mahal, in Jalandhar district, where a dargah dedicated to Shah Fateh Ali Shah was demolished. The tomb was destroyed and taken over by a group that claimed it was built on the site of a gurdwara. Now, the board outside proclaims it as the site of a gurdwara again, and some of the land has been let out to shopkeepers and is being used for commercial purposes. There is only a mattress, where the tomb used to be, but devotees continue to visit the place. The irony is that according to popular belief, this site was given to Shah Fateh Ali Shah, known as one of the three roshni ke fakir, by the fifth Sikh Guru Arjan Singh.
Kali added: "Now, there is discrimination from Sikh religious leaders too. There are reports of Dalit sarpanches being killed or beaten up. Sometimes people will not allow Dalits to go into the fields to relieve themselves."
In the given situation, the return to the non-Brahmanical Sufi tradition comes as no surprise. Kali himself is a devotee and his father took the guru-diksha from Pritamdass, whose lineage is traced back to Baba Fareed, one of the oldest saints. Kali said: "At first it was only my father. Now my elder brother and my cousins and nephews have become Bibi Channi Shah's chelas (disciples). There are often 200 disciple families in a single Sufi village."
The new wave of Sufi resurgence has a lot to do with renewed cultural interest in the Sufi tradition of song and music.
A devotee we met at Phillaur village also agrees that the ranks of Sufi devotees are swelling. Prem Singh, a mason, regularly visits the shrine at Phillaur. "It is a family tradition but it is much bigger now. There are at least one lakh visitors to the urs, even in Phillaur village. And the urs used to be a day-long affair; now it goes on for three days."
The new wave also owes its resurgence to renewed cultural interest in the Sufi tradition of song and music. Satish Gulati, who owns Chetna Publications in Ludhiana, vouches for it. "I have a new reprint of Bulle Shah's books and posters of all the old Sufi saints. I expect each edition to sell out within the year. Another factor is that people are sick of remixes and repetitive entertainment. They are buying, reading and listening to Sufi kalaams (poems/songs). We plan to bring out the collected works and histories of Sultan Bahu, Shah Hussain, Baba Fareed and so on."
The dissenting voice is that of Dr. Seva Singh, a retired Professor, who held the Kabir Chair at Guru Nanak University. Although he agrees that Sufism is crucial because it gave India a new ethical code, something that had not happened on the subcontinent since Gautam Buddha's era, he also believes that this new resurgence is a false one.
"The new wave is not of Sufism. Whenever there is an economic crunch, when there is frustration and insecurity and apoliticisation, people turn to spiritualism. Now, people are deprived of ideology. There are only rough, caste-based power equations. People may have more money but they have no mooring and are afraid to lose the little they have gained. They turn to mysticism or to religion, because they need some kind of faith."
He points out that the crowds might be swelling at Sufi dargahs but it is equally true of Kumbh Melas, mosques and gurdwaras. "There is no Sufi thought there, because people like Bulle Shah were against all kinds of institutionalised faith."
Seva Singh is also suspicious of this new resurgence in that it seems only to encourage those philosophies that will strengthen religious institutions. "Sufis lived with truth and self-respect. They broke free from the shackles of property. Nowadays, people use the folk songs of Bulle Shah and Kabir but ignore their criticism of priests, or Baba Fareed's criticism of property laws. They romanticise Sufism and indulge in it like nostalgia. But they refuse to let it become an agent of change. This amounts to cultural appropriation."
o o o o Dawn June 3, 2005 KASHMIR SEARCHES FOR ITS LOST SUFI MUSIC By Sheikh MushtaqKRALPORA (India): Amid the daily roar of gunfire and grenades, there's something new in Kashmiri villages these days: music classes. A dozen teenagers, cradling ancient Kashmiri string instruments and notebooks listen in rapt attention to teacher Mohammad Yaqoob speak about Sufyana Mosaqi, Kashmir's classical music. "It is a Himalayan task to revive Sufyana Mosaqi, but when I listen to these young girls and boys singing haunting melodies, I see a ray of hope," says 45-year-old Yaqoob. "In this kind of a situation, it is very difficult to motivate youngsters to learn this music. But I will keep trying." The strains of the 500-year-old musical form, drawn from the rituals and teachings of the Sufis or Muslim mystics, have been drowned in the 16-year separatist conflict in one of the world's most beautiful regions claimed by both India and Pakistan. Teachers fled the region because of the violence and the rise of Islamic fundamentalism which sought to restrict Kashmiris from pursuing art and replace its gentle Sufi traditions. But a few Kashmiri musicologists are now trying to revive the tradition as they hold classes under the shadow of the gun, look for surviving artists in far flung villages and try to recover lost pieces of music. Experts say that Sufyana Mosaqi, a style of choral music performed by five to ten musicians, has already lost 130 out of the 180 "ragas" or melodies referred to in ancient scripts. A Kashmiri musicologist, Sheikh Abdul Aziz, has preserved 42 melodies by notating them over the past 15 years in a four-volume monumental book "Kashur Sargam" or Kashmiri music. The fourth volume is under publication. "The tradition of verbally passing down ragas from generation to generation also contributed to the disaster besides the ongoing militancy," said 75-year-old Aziz, the only contemporary theorist of Kashmiri music. "I am weak now. I can't go looking for more ragas and the situation is not good." Aziz, lying in bed in his house in Srinagar said he travelled to remote villages and towns of Kashmir, met old musicians, music lovers and collected Sufyana ragas for his project. Also lost is the once-celebrated Hafiza dance associated with the Sufyana Mosaqi. A solo female dance, the Hafiza expresses the meaning of poems sung by musicians through delicate postures and gliding steps similar to the Kathak dance tradition in northern India. The popular Hafiza dance was performed by Kashmiri women to the accompaniment of Sufyana Kalam or spiritual poetry, but musicians say Hafizas or female dancers disappeared from the scene in the 1940s after some were linked with prostitution. GENTLE WAY OF LIFE: Sufism is a gentle Muslim way of life preached by Sufi saints in Kashmir, which was known for its scenic beauty, Sufi poets and religious tolerance before the rebellion broke out in late 1989 in which more than 45,000 people have died. Sufi music and its mystic dance were brought to the idyllic Himalayan valley from Central Asia in the 15th century. Many musicians still sing Persian poems. Some instruments also face extinction. The dhokra, an antique Kashmiri drum, has been replaced by the Indian tabla instrument. Very few players are left to string the Saz-e-Kashmir, a violin-like instrument. The other instruments used for performing Sufyana are the stringed santoor and Kashmiri sitar. Ironically while Sufi music is struggling for survival in Kashmir, its popularity is growing in elsewhere in India. -
_______ [4] Pune Newsline June 04, 2005 250 delegates for Indo-Pak meet in city on June 10Pak ex-finance minister, Admiral L Ramdas (retd) to be present for 3-day conclave
Express News ServicePune, June 3: FORMER finance minister of Pakistan and founder-member of Pakistan People's Party (PPP) Dr Mubashar Hassan will be in the city to participate in the national-level convention of Pakistan-India Peoples' Forum for Peace and Democracy (PIPFPD) from June 10 to June 12.
The fifth national convention will be attended by 250 delegates from all over the country.
Former chief of naval staff Admiral L Ramdas will also be present.The delegates will discuss issues related to the two countries and take stock of the current relations, informed Jatin Desai, a national committee member of PIPFD.
An endeavour of citizens from both sides of the border, the meet has been organised after a bi-lateral convention held in New Delhi this February.
According to Desai, citizens are in favor of strengthening people-to-people interaction, a significant factor in the thawing of diplomatic relations between the countries.
The State-level meeting of PIPFD will be held on June 10, followed by a public discussion of the ongoing peace process between India and Pakistan.
On June 11, at the national convention, the proceedings of the bilateral meet held in February will be discussed.
On June 12, a public meeting to discuss various issues governing the relations between the two countries has been scheduled in Symbiosis Vishwabhavan at 6 pm which will be graced by Admiral Ramdas.
The meeting will be followed by a play Nakab written by Pakistani playwright Rafi Pir and based on the Hiroshima tragedy.
_______ [5] Book Review New York Times June 7, 2005 Books of The Times | 'Finding George Orwell in Burma' The Road to 'Animal Farm,' Through Burma By William GrimesFresh out of Eton, George Orwell spent five years in Burma as a policeman in the colonial service. He left in 1927, fed up with "the dirty work of Empire," but the country never quite left him. It provided the material for the novel "Burmese Days" and one of his most famous essays, "Shooting an Elephant." In his final days, as he lay dying of tuberculosis, he sketched out a novella, "A Smoking Room Story," about a young Englishman changed forever by his experiences in colonial Burma.
FINDING GEORGE ORWELL IN BURMA By Emma Larkin 294 pages. The Penguin Press. $22.95.Emma Larkin pursues the young Eric Blair (the pseudonym would come later) all over Burma in "Finding George Orwell in Burma," revisiting the places where he lived and worked to reimagine the experiences that helped shape his political outlook and his writing. Her mournful, meditative, appealingly idiosyncratic book is a hybrid, an exercise in literary detection but also a political travelogue that uses Burma to explain Orwell, and Orwell - especially the Orwell of "Animal Farm" and "Nineteen Eighty-Four" - to explain the miseries of present-day Myanmar (as it is now known).
"Burmese Days" is set in Katha, in the northern part of the country, but it took Orwell several years to get there. He began his tour of duty in Mandalay, at the Police Training School, and then drew the short straw. Just 19 years old, he was posted to the delta region of lower Burma, an area renowned, Ms. Larkin writes, for having "the largest, liveliest mosquitoes in the Empire." Britons who had spent time in the delta, it was said, were easy to spot because of their habit of darting into a room and quickly slamming the door shut behind them, still pursued by phantom insects.
Orwell later dismissed his time in Burma as "five boring years within the sound of bugles." In fact, he landed right in the middle of a fearsome crime wave. Roving gangs bent on robbery, mayhem and murder had turned Burma into "the most violent corner of the Indian Empire." It was Orwell's job to gather intelligence and, sailing up the delta's canals, track down criminals. The fine-meshed net of British surveillance, and its attendant bureaucracy, Ms. Larkin theorizes, proved invaluable to Orwell when it came time to write "Nineteen Eighty-Four." So did his overpowering sense of isolation, as he labored for a system he came to loathe.
In Orwell's time, Burma was a prosperous country. Today, under a tenacious dictatorship that has lasted more than 40 years, Myanmar has the lowest income in Southeast Asia and ranks as one of least-developed countries in the world. With no external enemies, it supports an army nearly as large as that of the United States. A Stasi-style system of secret police and citizen informers closely monitors the population.
All-embracing censorship laws extend to "incorrect ideas," "opinions which do not accord with the times" and statements that, although factually accurate, are "unsuitable because of the time or the circumstances of their writing." The ruling party of this militaristic, underdeveloped nation has adopted a satisfyingly Orwellian name: the State Peace and Development Council.
The only safe topics for public discussion are things like the lottery, the weather and football. Yet in her travels, over endless cups of tea, Ms. Larkin elicits the hushed testimony of frightened citizens desperate for breathing room. Some simply want to try out their English, like the would-be hipster who thinks that "see you later, alligator" is up-to-date American slang. An elderly Anglo-Burmese woman, left stranded by the end of colonial rule, reminisces about the good old days as she fondles her last piece of English china.
Others pour out their hearts. And still others distill their anguish into a single bitter remark. "We Burmese people are totally content," one man tells Ms. Larkin. "Do you know why? Because we have nothing left. We have been squeezed and squeezed and squeezed until there is nothing left."
Ms. Larkin, in reading Orwell's two political novels as sequels to "Burmese Days," is not being eccentric, not in Myanmar. When the BBC's Burmese service broadcast a radio dramatization of "Animal Farm" a few years ago, listeners talked about it for weeks. For them, Orwell's parable clearly described Myanmar's plight. The only matter of debate was which animals represented which real-life figures.
As Ms. Larkin makes her way across the country, her movements are tracked, sometimes blocked, by the police, military personnel, bureaucrats, spies, informers and ordinary citizens instructed to report on any encounters with foreigners. When registering at a guest house she must fill out forms to be sent to nine separate departments. Shopping at a local market, a police informer dogs her heels, asking, over and over, who she is, where she is going and what she is trying to find out. She has changed the names of most of the Burmese she talked to and, lest she be barred from returning to Myanmar, has published this book under a pseudonym.
Ms. Larkin eventually makes her way to Katha, to which, she suggests, Orwell might have been posted as punishment for shooting that elephant, a highly valuable asset for its owner. The Katha Tennis Club, centerpiece of "Burmese Days," still stands. The club building is now a government cooperative. The tennis court, oddly enough, remains intact, complete with umpire chairs and night-time floodlights. For Orwell, the club symbolized all the injustice of the empire.
The empire has disappeared, but not the injustice. A Burmese friend of Ms. Larkin's, old enough to have lived through both systems, tells her, "The British may have sucked our blood, but these Burmese generals are biting us to the bone!"
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/Buzz on the perils of fundamentalist politics, on matters of peace and democratisation in South Asia. SACW is an independent & non-profit citizens wire service run since 1998 by South Asia Citizens Web: www.sacw.net/
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