Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

2016-12-11 Thread Andrew Baron via Phono-L
Is the visible gap at the spindle hole or between the platter and hub?
Further to my earlier suggestions, this would require a machine shop if you 
don’t have the tools, and it might be cheaper ultimately to buy a straight 
replacement platter from George Vollema. Regarding a cross pin in a substitute 
arbor/spindle, this would’t bend if it’s made of hard steel, like clock pivot 
wire, but again, this all may be too much work if you have replacement 
alternatives and would otherwise have to pay machine shop fees.
Andrew Baron
Santa Fe, NM

On Dec 11, 2016, at 2:06 PM, John Selph via Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org> 
wrote:

> The platter has been removed and is just sitting on the spindle right now.  
> The problem is that it is warped and you can see a slight gap at the platter 
> spindle joint where the platter itself has been distorted.
>  
> From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of harvey 
> kravitz via Phono-L
> Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2016 7:04 PM
> To: Antique Phonograph List
> Cc: harvey kravitz
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter
>  
> I have a VV 1-1, and here is how I removed the turntable. I would saturate 
> the spindle with either penetrating oil, liquid wrench or Kroil. Let the oil 
> seep into the spindle and the turntable. After a few hours, put a couple of 
> small pry bars underneath the turn table. Do not force this Take a 
> standard hammer and lightly tap the spindle. The turn table should pop off. 
> You might have to use the oil in more than one application. The important 
> thing is to be very gentle. These were very cheaply made machines, and 
> delicate. This method will work on other machines with stuck turn tables.
> Harvey Kravitz
>  
> 
> From: John Selph via Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org>
> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org 
> Cc: John Selph <jse...@cox.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2016 3:15 PM
> Subject: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter
>  
> Anyone know of a  way to repair a “sprung” platter?  Apparently someone 
> attempted to remove the platter on a VV 1-1 by prying and the platter is now 
> warped.  I was thinking of possibly using a press to apply pressure and 
> placing a tack weld on the “high” side of the platter/hub connection.  Would 
> this work?
> Thanks.
> John
>  
> "Once in the wilds of Afghanistan I lost my corkscrew, and we were forced to 
> live on nothing but food and water for days."  W. C. Fields
>  
> 
> 
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Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

2016-12-11 Thread John Selph via Phono-L
My guess is that it is pressed steel with the center hub tack welded on.

 

From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Ron
L'Herault via Phono-L
Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2016 8:09 PM
To: 'Antique Phonograph List'
Cc: Ron L'Herault
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

 

Is that a pressed steel or solid turntable?   It would probably be easier to
find another turntable, but I'd also consider heat and/or talking to an
older automotive body technician.

 

Ron L

 

From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of John Selph
via Phono-L
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2016 6:15 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: John Selph
Subject: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

 

Anyone know of a  way to repair a "sprung" platter?  Apparently someone
attempted to remove the platter on a VV 1-1 by prying and the platter is now
warped.  I was thinking of possibly using a press to apply pressure and
placing a tack weld on the "high" side of the platter/hub connection.  Would
this work?

Thanks.

John

 

"Once in the wilds of Afghanistan I lost my corkscrew, and we were forced to
live on nothing but food and water for days."  W. C. Fields

 

 
<http://post.spmailtech.com/f/a/upjjM7U18FuW4tu_oO6xaw~~/AABF2wA~/RgRaLvXZP0EIAmwk-aVN-0FXA3NwY1gEAFkGc2hhcmVkYQdoZWxsb180YAw1Mi4zOS4xNTQuMTZCCgAJWcJNWA48p6tSGGFyY2hpdmVAbWFpbC1hcmNoaXZlLmNvbQlRBABES2h0dHA6Ly9wb3N0LnNwbWFpbHRlY2guY29tL3EvS01fYkk2LWJJMGdvMjRnbG45QUViQX5-L0FBQkYyd0F-L1JnUmFLeUpsUGtFSUcCe30~
AGwjjdY6LchXA3NwY1gEAFkGc2hhcmVkYQdoZWxsb180YAwzNS4xNjIuMTIuMjNCCgAB5e5J
WG5TnJ9SFGxoZXJhdWx0QHZlcml6b24ubmV0CVEEAEcCe30~> 

 
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Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

2016-12-09 Thread Ken Brekke via Phono-L
Is this turntable unique to the VV 1-1?  If not, I might have a 
replacement turntable that you could have for the price of shipping.
You can contact me directly at kb...@charter.net
Ken Brekke

On 12/8/2016 5:15 PM, John Selph via Phono-L wrote:
>
> Anyone know of a  way to repair a “sprung” platter?  Apparently 
> someone attempted to remove the platter on a VV 1-1 by prying and the 
> platter is now warped.  I was thinking of possibly using a press to 
> apply pressure and placing a tack weld on the “high” side of the 
> platter/hub connection.  Would this work?
>
> Thanks.
>
> John
>
> "Once in the wilds of Afghanistan I lost my corkscrew, and we were 
> forced to live on nothing but food and water for days."  W. C. Fields
>
>
>
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Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

2016-12-09 Thread Andrew Baron via Phono-L
Hi John ~
I take it that the platter is already off or at least removable at this point, 
and the platter itself isn’t level with the hub?
My approach, one of any number of ways that people might come up with, but this 
is what comes to mind, would be to fabricate a temporary substitute 
spindle/arbor that passes fully through the hub spindle socket, perhaps with 
about four inches of substitute arbor exposed on both sides of the platter. 
This is not meant to be used in the phonograph but just for straightening the 
platter. To make it a precise fit, both for truing purposes and to avoid hub 
socket damage, duplicate any taper in the original spindle, onto the new turned 
arbor. You’ll also need to replicate the cross pin if there is one, so the 
platter can lock onto the substitute arbor. Come to think of it, this might be 
necessary if your fit is otherwise precise.

WORK HOLDING: Ideally, a decent sized lathe, say 6” to 10” (“ is max diameter 
of what the lathe can turn), with a three or four jaw chuck in the headstock 
and a Jacob’s chuck in the tailstock, each chuck securely tightened on your 
substitute arbor. You can use the lathe’s own tool post or any kind of fixture 
to gauge the deviation of the warp in the platter as you HAND turn the 
arrangement. This will show you clearly where the platter is high or low, and 
how far from true it is. With the substitute spindle, securely held providing a 
rigid mass to work against, you can then more accurately manage how far you 
push the platter, and where to push it. If necessary you can make a large clamp 
from a piece of 4” x 4” x 3/4" thick wood (to press against the underside of 
the platter), and a similar piece to clamp to the platter surface, which in 
turn can be clamped together, sandwiching the platter tightly, with a large 
carpenter’s clamp, which will also afford you a convenient handle to make your 
corrections. 

Don’t overdo it. Mark the platter edge with a sharpie or chalk (easily 
removable), at the approximate limits of where the distortion appear to be, so 
if you have to adjust the clamp and try again, you don’t lose track of where 
you’ve been. You can mark 1, 2, 3, etc., for each adjustment. You’ll be hand 
turning the platter & substitute spindle several times, probably before you get 
it where it needs to be. It also takes some keen observation to decide whether 
you’re pulling the platter up from or down in relation to the hub. If you get 
it wrong, don’t worry, as long as your end result is true. 

The point is, you have to work against mass and have a way to control your 
manipulations. You may find that moderate heat helps, but be careful not to 
overdo it or you can have the project go drastically wrong. The idea of a tack 
weld isn’t unreasonable, but you end up with something that’s far from factory 
condition, and if it’s otherwise a nice machine, a detractor.

Regarding Harvey’s recommendations for freeing a stuck platter, I would add 
that PB Blaster has always worked better for me than Liquid Wrench or any other 
penetrating oil product. I would recommend also not to use a steel hammer, but 
a sufficiently heavy brass one, or a hard plastic mallet. Otherwise you risk 
getting a flat spot on your spindle top. An alternative would be to place a 
piece of hardwood over the spindle before you whack it. Harvey’s recommendation 
to support each side and hold it under tension is good.

If you don’t have the means to do the warp repair yourself, share this 
recommendation with a machinist that you can trust, and see what they think. 
They may have a better idea.
Best of luck keeping another worthy phonograph in good shape,
Andrew Baron
Santa Fe

On Dec 8, 2016, at 4:15 PM, John Selph via Phono-L  wrote:

> Anyone know of a  way to repair a “sprung” platter?  Apparently someone 
> attempted to remove the platter on a VV 1-1 by prying and the platter is now 
> warped.  I was thinking of possibly using a press to apply pressure and 
> placing a tack weld on the “high” side of the platter/hub connection.  Would 
> this work?
> Thanks.
> John
>  
> "Once in the wilds of Afghanistan I lost my corkscrew, and we were forced to 
> live on nothing but food and water for days."  W. C. Fields
> 
>  
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Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

2016-12-08 Thread Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
Is that a pressed steel or solid turntable?   It would probably be easier to
find another turntable, but I'd also consider heat and/or talking to an
older automotive body technician.

 

Ron L

 

From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of John Selph
via Phono-L
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2016 6:15 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: John Selph
Subject: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

 

Anyone know of a  way to repair a "sprung" platter?  Apparently someone
attempted to remove the platter on a VV 1-1 by prying and the platter is now
warped.  I was thinking of possibly using a press to apply pressure and
placing a tack weld on the "high" side of the platter/hub connection.  Would
this work?

Thanks.

John

 

"Once in the wilds of Afghanistan I lost my corkscrew, and we were forced to
live on nothing but food and water for days."  W. C. Fields

 

 
<http://post.spmailtech.com/f/a/KE39KW1fuN4d21ebVF_LDg~~/AABF2wA~/RgRaK0XBP0EIAWwkzrSpgAZXA3NwY1gEAFkGc2hhcmVkYQdoZWxsb180YAw1Mi4zOS4xNTQuMTZCCgAFQRJKWPdW1XxSGGFyY2hpdmVAbWFpbC1hcmNoaXZlLmNvbQlRBABES2h0dHA6Ly9wb3N0LnNwbWFpbHRlY2guY29tL3EvS01fYkk2LWJJMGdvMjRnbG45QUViQX5-L0FBQkYyd0F-L1JnUmFLeUpsUGtFSUcCe30~
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Re: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter

2016-12-08 Thread harvey kravitz via Phono-L
I have a VV 1-1, and here is how I removed the turntable. I would saturate the 
spindle with either penetrating oil, liquid wrench or Kroil. Let the oil seep 
into the spindle and the turntable. After a few hours, put a couple of small 
pry bars underneath the turn table. Do not force this Take a standard 
hammer and lightly tap the spindle. The turn table should pop off. You might 
have to use the oil in more than one application. The important thing is to be 
very gentle. These were very cheaply made machines, and delicate. This method 
will work on other machines with stuck turn tables.Harvey Kravitz

  From: John Selph via Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org>
 To: phono-l@oldcrank.org 
Cc: John Selph <jse...@cox.net>
 Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2016 3:15 PM
 Subject: [Phono-L] "Sprung" Platter
   
Anyone 
know of a  way to repair a “sprung” platter?  Apparently someone attempted to 
remove the platter on a VV 1-1 by prying and the platter is now warped.  I was 
thinking of possibly using a press to apply pressure and placing a tack weld on 
the “high” side of the platter/hub connection.  Would this work?Thanks.John  
"Once in the wilds of Afghanistan I lost my corkscrew, and we were forced to 
live on nothing but food and water for days."  W. C. Fields   
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