On Aug 4, 2004, at 05:00 am, Jeff Walther wrote:
I guess we all skipped right past the "Are you sure your monitor is working okay?" part. :-)
It is technically working ok, it just needed a bit of a kicking to get it to work :o)
If that is the 14" Color display which was not a trinitron, and also was not the "Basic Apple Color Display" then it may have a blown internal fuse. Apple's mid-range 14" display (I'd pull a model number but I'm too lazy to climb behind my partner's desk) from the mid-90's was infamous for blowing it's internal fuse.
It's an M1212 model with the Trinitron Tube. Tidy little CRT really. The brightness is shot on it though, it is over-bright on the red channel and when I turn the brightness dial any more than 1/4 turn the image just cuts out and collapses as if I turned the screen off. Smells to me like there;s a control line up the creek in there somewhere...
The fuse is relatively easy to get to and the capacity is pretty clearly marked, IIRC (it's been many years since I fixed this one). It is soldered down, however. In the case of the one that I have here, after removing the fuse, I soldered in a fuse holder (little plastic dingy in two parts that screw/snaps together to hold the fuse inside) so that if the fuse blew again replacement would be easy.
I also found that the difference between a fast-blow and a slow-blow fuse was critical. The thing blows fast-blow fuses but a slow-blow fuse survives. Apparently, the root cause of the problem may be in the degaussing circuit.
I presume you are talking about the M1787 or M2346 'Color Plus 14"' Model? That's one I will take down for future reference, thanks.
Anyway, if that's the same model 14" monitor, it may have this fuse problem. If it's working intermittently though, then probably not, as fuses don't come back to life. At least I've never seen a zombie fuse.
Well it ain't a fuse. I think the monitor is on death row. I don't have much luck with Apple CRTs - I have a Multiple Scan 720 (M4552) that runs great for about 10 mins then there is a crackling noise from around the place where the Anode Cap attaches
and the picture cuts out. I have found from examining the patient that it's been dropped badly (thankfully it was also free!). I wonder if the Anode Cap or it's associated cable is damaged. Either way it's not something I fancy working on!!
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