I use Zahn Electronics for DC-DC converters and have not had any problems with them in 13 years. https://www.zahninc.com/
On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 5:36 PM Ken Hohhof <af...@kwisp.com> wrote: > Conventional wisdom is you want a converter that goes into current > limiting on overload, not foldback. That was why people said to get Mean > Well RSD series instead of SD which would go into foldback. > > > > That assumes your load devices will tolerate a momentary dip in voltage, > most will, but foldback may be what’s causing the “cycling” he is seeing. > > > > *From:* AF <af-boun...@af.afmug.com> *On Behalf Of *ch...@wbmfg.com > *Sent:* Thursday, September 3, 2020 4:07 PM > *To:* af@af.afmug.com > *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] 24v to 48v upconverter pulses > > > > I found this problem with every single cheap DC-DC I have used if I buy > too close to the load I need. 5X or 10X then they are OK. > > > > *From:* Adam Moffett > > *Sent:* Thursday, September 3, 2020 1:18 PM > > *To:* af@af.afmug.com > > *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] 24v to 48v upconverter pulses > > > > This is all true, but how much inrush current can you have with one switch > and one PoE device? > > > > On 9/3/2020 3:15 PM, Chuck McCown wrote: > > Yeah a fully charged 24 volt rechargeable battery in parallel with the > load would probably fix the problem. Get a couple small gel cells. But > they will have an inrush current too. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Sep 3, 2020, at 1:11 PM, Ken Hohhof mailto:af...@kwisp.com > <af...@kwisp.com> wrote: > > > > I guess I’d like to hear how many watts you need for stuff that can run on > 48/56 volts, vs how many for stuff that must have 24V. > > > > 240 watts is a lot of 48V, I would seriously think about a 48V power > supply and battery string. Even if you put that along side your 24V > setup. Batteries are really good at handling inrush current. > > > > > > *From:* AF mailto:af-boun...@af.afmug.com <af-boun...@af.afmug.com> *On > Behalf Of *Chuck McCown > *Sent:* Thursday, September 3, 2020 1:56 PM > *To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group mailto:af@af.afmug.com > <af@af.afmug.com> > *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] 24v to 48v upconverter pulses > > > > Lots of equipment will have a high inrush current wham starting. I think > you don’t have enough capacity to get things started. Cheap DC-DC > converters don’t like high starting loads. A fix would be a series > inductor with a flywheel diode. I am on the road else I would help with > some component selection. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Sep 3, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Sterling Jacobson <sterl...@avative.net> > wrote: > > > > I bought a cheap 24v to 48v (5A max) upconvert from Amazon. > > > > I have it wired to feed a MT CRS switch via DC and radio via POE on the > 48v leg. > > > > But when I plug everything in, the CRS doesn’t show any lights, and the > radio/POE just pulses green light it’s powering, then not powering in a > cycle. > > > > When I remove the radio POE, the CRS will start pulsing green light it’s > getting power for a split second, then not, then power, in a cycle just > like the radio POE. > > After maybe 10-20 seconds the CRS finally gets full power and boots up > just fine. > > After it begins to get full power I can plug in the POE to the radio and > it boots up just fine too. > > > > I’ve tried different power supplies and different POE injectors and > different CRS switches and different 24v to 48v upconvert modules, always > the same. > > > > So I’m thinking I need to do something inline with the 24v feed to maybe > delay or build up amperage first? > > > > It really sounds like an odd electronics problem with this particular > upconverter that may be lacking a component necessary for my scenario. > > > > What do you electronics people think? > > > > *From:* AF <af-boun...@af.afmug.com> *On Behalf Of *Josh Baird > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 2, 2020 6:42 AM > *To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <af@af.afmug.com> > *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Mikrotik Vrrp > > > > Yes - the VRRP should be a /32. Typical configuration looks like this: > > > > Router1: > > > > ether1: 192.168.1.2/24 > > vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32 > > > > Router2: > > > > ether1: 192.168.1.3/24 > > vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32 > > > > Your VRRP interface (192.168.1.1/32) should be a /32, and it should be on > the same subnet as your "physical" interfaces. > > > > On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 11:06 PM Rhys Cuff (Speedweb Internet) via AF < > af@af.afmug.com> wrote: > > Hi Guys > > > > Has anyone had much experience with using Vrrp on a Mikrotik? > > It seemed pretty easy to setup but the manual said the floating IP must be > a /32 and to put an IP on the physical interface with a /24 > > This seemed wrong so I just put a /24 on the Vrrp interface and a > completely different subnet on the physical interface for the routers to > communicate. > > > > Thinking I was clever all was well till about 1am two days after I did > this, then it completely failed, switching back and forth from master to > backup, basically having two masters on and off. > > > > Is having a /32 on the vrrp really necessary, if so why? > > Why would it have been all good for two days? > > > > So my config that lasted two days > > Vrrp 192.168.1.1/24 (floating IP I care about) > > Physical 10.0.1.1/24 (to communicate with master/backup routers) > > > > How the manual says to do it > > Vrrp 192.168.1.1/32 > > Physical 192.168.1.2/24 > > > > Doing it the second way will mean a lot more IP’s/config as I want to have > around 20 floating IP’s > > > > Thanks again for any help. > > > > Rhys > > > > > > -- > AF mailing list > AF@af.afmug.com > http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com > > -- > AF mailing list > AF@af.afmug.com > http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com > > -- > AF mailing list > AF@af.afmug.com > http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com > > > > ------------------------------ > > -- > AF mailing list > AF@af.afmug.com > http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com > -- > AF mailing list > AF@af.afmug.com > http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com >
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