Those look pretty interesting.   We just dropped 10 grand on new bats for one 
of our 350KW UPS’s which use two strings of 100AH bats,  I was looking around 
but just couldn’t get to the happy spot with going Lithium,   many of them said 
max 3 or 4 in series which kind of kill it as these need 400v+.   Our other 
500KW ups’s use thousands of the cheapy 9AH bats,   takes some of the employees 
weeks to swap those battery packs out,  but nice thing about those is no worry 
of 1 battery from each string being enough to kill the ups,  with dozens of 
strings the probability is very low.

From: AF <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mathew Howard
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2023 2:01 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

LiFePO4. There are a few different ways you can go with that though. You can 
get something like these: https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/eve-lf280k 
which I think actually comes out slightly cheaper than SLA/AGM, but then you 
need a separate BMS, or you can get something like this: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166234057827 which is made to be a drop in replacement 
for lead acids, and has a built in BMS.


On Thu, Aug 17, 2023 at 2:37 PM 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Ooh What lithium batteries are we talking about?
Last time I checked (a number of years ago), it was around 5x the $/Wh to buy 
Lithium.


From: AF <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> On Behalf Of 
Mathew Howard
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2023 10:51 AM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

Well, right. It doesn't scale well, because battery costs and space 
requirements will quickly become a problem. Batteries don't last forever, so 
you have to factor in replacement costs too, which will be a significant 
ongoing cost for a larger system. I'm pretty sure that lithium batteries would 
be cheaper long term now, since they should have a lot longer life span and the 
initial cost isn't a lot higher, but then heating is required, which means you 
need more power.

On Wed, Aug 16, 2023 at 7:02 PM 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
That’s building strictly for a 20W load though.  Building for a tiny load does 
make the costs easier.  But if you wanted a second AP, bigger backhaul, or 
anything else you can’t do it without growing the whole power system 
proportionally.

Steve was talking a 50W load today.  The real high end hardware now is using a 
lot of signal processing either to reassemble useful data out of garbage or for 
beam steering, or both.  So you end up needing 100-150W for an AP.  You’d be 
hard pressed to find a licensed backhaul under 35W, and most of them are 50W+.  
We could say we won’t deploy that equipment….but building for a 20W load takes 
the choice away.

A 20A 240v circuit is 4800W.  Or a 20A 120V circuit is 2400W.  Even 2400W would 
power almost any WISP deployment.  Building solar to handle any load you might 
have is expensive, and building for only low power handcuffs you.
You do your thing your way, no judgement.  If it’s working for you then it’s 
good, but I can’t see myself going that direction.

-Adam



From: AF <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> On Behalf Of 
Mathew Howard
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2023 5:01 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

I'm at about the same latitude as you. My experience is that having extra 
battery capacity is more helpful than oversizing the solar panels, so I'd 
probably go with Chuck's numbers for batteries if I was putting something 
together now, and solar panels are cheap now anyway, so figure 400 watts (if 
mounting space allows for it, which could be an issue if we're trying to fit it 
on a pole).

A quick check on Amazon shows 100ah SLA batteries for $160, so 6 of those would 
give me 7200 watt hours, for just under $1k. At $1500 (which is mostly just 
adjusting battery and panel sizes from where I started at $1k), I'm right in 
line with Chuck's estimate, aside from the battery costs.

On Wed, Aug 16, 2023 at 3:33 PM 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I end up closer to Chuck’s estimate.  In Southern or Central NY State I’m 2 
degrees north of Salt Lake City.  42N
What’s your latitude?

From: AF <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> On Behalf Of 
Mathew Howard
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2023 4:11 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

Yeah, that's what I'd do in a difficult to access location. I did a site like 
that here (Wisconsin) with 200 watts of panel (I think the actual load is 
around 15 watts, so a bit more than 10x), and ~4kwh of battery. It had some 
issues in January a couple years, but I attributed that more to using cheap 
flooded deep cycles, rather than not enough capacity. With AGMs, it's gotten 
through the last couple of winters without issues. 4kwh of AGMs can be had for 
around $800, last I checked. Probably looking at closer to $1500 when you add 
in enclosures and mounts, but some of that is replacing parts that are needed 
with AC power anyway (smaller enclosure, backup batteries, power supply), so 
that offsets it a bit.

On Wed, Aug 16, 2023 at 2:50 PM Chuck McCown via AF 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Using my historical rules of thumb for off grid, snowed in mountain top 
location for a 20 watt load I would do the following that has never failed me:

Load X 20 so 400 watts of panel.  So less than $200 these days.
2 weeks of battery autonomy.
20 x 24 x 14= 6720 watt hours.  $2K of batts
Plus enclosures, mounts, charge controllers.

$2500 and it will never go down in the winter.  At my Utah latitude on top of 
Utah mountains.



From: Mathew Howard
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2023 1:07 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

It depends on how much stuff you're trying to run. A minimal micropop can be 
done with less than 20 watts of load (single AP and backhaul). I can put 
together a solar setup for around $1000 that will power that.

On Tue, Aug 15, 2023 at 12:50 PM 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I can save you the suspense.  If you have access to electric that’ll be cheaper 
than solar.  The problem is the need to run 24/7.  You have to design around 
the December-January months.  I’m in NY State, and at our latitude we only get 
a few hours of average production per day during those months.  And obviously 
if it’s snowing for a week you need to be able to ride through that on mostly 
battery power.  Even with a modest load it takes a silly amount of panels and 
batteries to stay up 24/7 in the winter.  More than you’d ever be allowed to 
put on a utility pole.

Talk to your electric co about the smallest service you can get.  Explain what 
you’re trying to do and that your max load is very low.
NYSEG normally doesn’t do less than 100A, but they made an exception and let us 
do 60A.  You need a meter can, a service rated panel, a conduit up the pole and 
a weatherhead.  Then you either have an outdoor outlet, or have an outlet 
inside your enclosure.  You’ll want the smallest service they’ll let you do 
because of the wire size on the service cable.  A 20A (if they’d allow it) 
would only need a 12/3 with ground, and that’s up to 4800 Watts (240x20) so 
it’s still more than you’d ever need.   A 12/3 is way cheaper than a 100A 
service entrance cable.

My figure is 8 years old, and obviously there’s been inflation since then, but 
I went to the same contractor who does electric installs for the cable company 
and they quoted me about $1000.  Even if it’s 3x that for you today you’d still 
never beat that with a solar installation even if they’d let you do it.  And 
I’m not some knee-jerk anti-solar lunatic, I’m just saying I’ve run the numbers 
and it doesn’t add up.   People do it when they’re off grid, or when the 
electric service is unreliable in the area, or sometimes just for the 
PR/marketing power of being “solar powered”.  Those are all fine reasons, but 
doing it for cost savings isn’t going to work out.

-Adam


From: AF <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> On Behalf Of 
Steve Jones
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2023 10:27 AM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

we have a dozen or so, but are looking at pole mount micropops (our own poles). 
We are losing a grain elevator site because they decommissioned the elevator 
and theres no real options for the customers in some of the areas. Im just 
trying to get to something we can get solar power with enough battery to last 
through overcast. So Im calculating per battery runtimes, then will look at 
number of batteries we would need to survive vs paying for a ROW meter vs 
losing the customers. Just have to get to the cost per customer to retain them 
and the benefit gained per pole


On Tue, Aug 15, 2023 at 8:53 AM Brian Webster 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
How many of the batteries do you have? Do you need any voltages other than the 
48 volts? If you have 4 batteries and only need 48 volts then wire them in 
series and not have to deal with the converter.

Thank you,
Brian Webster


From: AF [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2023 6:59 AM
To: 'AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group'
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

*You’re around C/30 which should be on the high end of capacity.
Lower load usually means a little extra capacity out of the battery.  I 
realized that sentence might have been ambiguous.


From: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2023 6:56 AM
To: 'AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group' <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: RE: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

You can do the whole thing in Watts.

12V * 150ah = 1800 Watt-hours
1800Wh / 50W = 36 hours

If they’re telling me 95% efficiency, I’d assume 50W out needs 53W in (50 / 
0.95).
There’s usually an efficiency curve for the device based on load and 
temperature so it wouldn’t be 95% in all circumstances.  Your system should be 
drawing less than 5A off the battery, and if your multimeter has a 10A fuse 
like most do, then you could put the meter in line and actually measure the 
amperage before and after the converter.  Then you’d know for sure.

And the battery’s total capacity will have a curve based on C-rate so there’s 
some variability there too.  Usually it lasts longer when you’re drawing lower 
amperage.  You’re around C/30 which should be on the high end.

Age and maintenance of the battery affect runtime as well.  If I want 6 hours 
of runtime then I plan Ah for 12 hours runtime. When my batteries are halfway 
toasted I’m still getting useful life out of them.


From: AF <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> On Behalf Of 
Steve Jones
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2023 9:57 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: [AFMUG] battery nerd question

Just trying to cipher runtimes
I have on hand 150ah 12 volt batteries, so thats what id be looking to use.
Excluding the conversion loss of a 12v to 48v step up converter is the math 
correct here?
12v 150ah=1800 watt hours
1800 watt hours at 48v = 37.5ah
50 watts of radio running 48v = 1.04 amps
37.5ah @ 1.04 amps = 32.77 hours runtime

does a step up that claims 95% efficiency mean 95% of the watt hours?
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