Back from the dead!  If anyone was still looking for a source for these I
have found them sold at discountlowvoltage.com in packs of 200.

On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 4:50 PM, Ken Hohhof <[email protected]> wrote:

>   There are 110 patch cables.  If you need to field terminate your own,
> use something like this:
>
> http://www.showmecables.com/product/ICC-4-Pair-110-Style-Field-Temination-Plugs.aspx
>
>
>  *From:* Chuck McCown <[email protected]>
> *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2015 5:06 PM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Cat5 Splicing
>
>   If you have to, you can strip it and kinda wire wrap around the 110
> slot and then attempt to kinda punch it down.
>
>  *From:* Eric Kuhnke <[email protected]>
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2015 2:38 PM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Cat5 Splicing
>
>  Stranded cable just doesn't punch down on standard 110-type "teeth" at
> all, it'll always be bad results.
>
> Eric [email protected]
> Sierra Leone (Africell): +232-88-284222
> Sierra Leone (Airtel) +232-79-107461
> Ghana (MTN): +233-5478-81863
> Iridium: +1-480-768-2500 followed by 8816-234-59301
> Vancouver: +1-604-783-3317
> Skype: erickuhnke
>
> On 2/19/15 8:09 PM, Josh Reynolds wrote:
>
> You know the more that I think about this, I'm thinking you're right.
> There are 7 different boxes of cable next to me, and none of them are
> stranded. The dozens of pre-made patch cables from 0.5ft to 50ft above them
> though are all stranded.
>
> I can't imagine trying to punch down a stranded cable :)
>
> --
> Josh Reynolds
> CIO, SPITwSPOTSwww.spitwspots.com
>
> On 02/19/2015 10:38 AM, Ken Hohhof wrote:
>
>  I don’t think that’s right.  Stranded should only be used for patch
> cords which need to withstand flexing, otherwise all cable both indoors and
> out should be solid.  Not to say there aren’t homeowners who have pulled a
> 50 ft patch cord from Best Buy through their walls, but you should very
> rarely encounter stranded cable in permanent wiring.
>
>
>  *From:* Josh Reynolds <[email protected]>
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2015 1:24 PM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Cat5 Splicing
>
>  Depends on what market you are in. If you're in general IT doing things
> indoors, it's normally stranded. Most outdoor stuff I've seen is solid.
>
> (side note: f@#k stranded CatX)
>
> --
> Josh Reynolds
> CIO, SPITwSPOTSwww.spitwspots.com
>
> On 02/19/2015 09:07 AM, Sterling Jacobson wrote:
>
>  Would that work for Cat6 end to end splicing? I forget if Cat5e and Cat6
> cable are usually solid core.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Af [mailto:[email protected] <[email protected]>] *On
> Behalf Of *Nate Burke
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2015 10:53 AM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Cat5 Splicing
>
>
>
> He might have been talking about the ScotchLok U1R  They take a pair and
> splice to another pair.  You can keep them twisted right up until they go
> into the connector
>
>
>
>  On 2/19/2015 11:23 AM, Jerry Richardson wrote:
>
> We’ve been using these – the are bit less that the Bulgin and work as well:
>
> http://www.vpi.us/wtp-rj45-coupler.html
>
>
>
> Not sure how I feel about using crimp splice but if they are reliable I
> might try it
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Af [mailto:[email protected] <[email protected]>] *On
> Behalf Of *Eric Muehleisen
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2015 9:03 AM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Cat5 Splicing
>
>
>
> Look up 3M ScotchLok. Our guys use them all the time. I once used them to
> splice together a 300ft. CAT5 cable running up the tower that was cut at
> the base by a tower climber. Worked great for temporary use.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 10:58 AM, Jay Weekley <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> I was curious about that product as well.
>
> Nate Burke wrote:
>
> I emailed him directly, but didn't hear back.  Thought maybe he'd see it
> on the list.
>
> Nate
>
>
> On 2/19/2015 10:54 AM, Jay Weekley wrote:
>
> Wasn't it the guy that toured Sterling's facility with us? I didn't get
> his card but I think Jay Fuller did.
>
> Nate Burke wrote:
>
> I wouldn't use the pictured one either, but supposedly there is a product
> like this, but specific for Cat5/6 where the pair go into the connector.
> It would replace doing a punchdown splice block or RJ45 coupler.
>
>
> On 2/19/2015 10:50 AM, That One Guy wrote:
>
> we have come across a few customer splices using the redcaps, if theyre
> going to splice themselves, at least theyre using a quality product to do
> it wrong
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 10:44 AM, Josh Luthman <
> [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>
>     There's a shielded one at Mouser.  I would never use what's in
>     that picture for ethernet.
>
>     Josh Luthman
>     Office: 937-552-2340 <tel:937-552-2340>
>     Direct: 937-552-2343 <tel:937-552-2343>
>     1100 Wayne St
>     Suite 1337
>     Troy, OH 45373
>
>     On Feb 19, 2015 11:42 AM, "Nate Burke" <[email protected]
>     <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>
>         Do you have a partnumber/distributor?
>
>
>         On 2/19/2015 10:40 AM, SmarterBroadband wrote:
>
>
>         We use them.  Gel filled so they are water resistant.
>
>         Adam
>
>         *From:*Af [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Nate
>         Burke
>         *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2015 8:38 AM
>         *To:* Animal Farm
>         *Subject:* [AFMUG] Cat5 Splicing
>
>         Out at AF I was talking to some who said that they were
>         using a Cat5 splice product.  They described it as being
>         similar to a butt connector
>         Image result for cat5 splice keep twist
>         but was specifically made to accept the Cat5 twist, so that
>         the twist went all the way into the unit to splice with
>         another twist.  I've been searching around, but haven't been
>         able to find them.  I can see this being better than trying
>         to do an RJ45 coupler in some situations.  Anybody use
>         something similar to this?
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> All parts should go together without forcing. You must remember that the
> parts you are reassembling were disassembled by you. Therefore, if you
> can't get them together again, there must be a reason. By all means, do not
> use a hammer. -- IBM maintenance manual, 1925
>
>
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