RTFM, gee what's that?
Actually I asked the dealer to email me a copy of the manual every day
for 3 days and they couldn't get it to me before the genny arrived. So
I skimmed the paper manual on the day of installation. Haven't gone
back to thoroughly read it, but I remember reading that there was no
break-in required. This surprised me, and I could have it wrong
(skimmed not read), but I'm pretty sure that's what it said.
I do remember it saying to check the oil every day if it's running for a
long period, and I was like, "yeah whatever, that's just butt covering."
------ Original Message ------
From: "George Skorup" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: 6/23/2016 3:10:52 PM
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Semi-OT: Engine oil consumption
Did you RTFM? Our Generac QS (2.4L) came from the factory filled with
5w20 synthetic blend. You're supposed to change filter and oil to 5w30
syn blend after the first 30 hours. And then regular filter/oil changes
w/ 5w30 every 100 hours. I believe the 2.4L Mitsubitchy is an iron
block though. I hope we don't have any oil consumption issues after we
get it going finally.
And I'm all too familiar with oil burning. My Silverado has the
aluminum block 5.3L Vortec with cylinder deactivation (AFM). They put
the aluminum in 4WD due to weight. It has been burning a quart every
2500-3000 miles since I've owned it. There really isn't anything
different between it and the iron blocks besides a slightly different
oiling system. The aluminum has iron cylinder liners. The thing with
the LS engines is that they need to be driven like you stole it once in
a while to keep carbon fouling from making the control rings stick.
And then recently I discovered that GM put out a bulletin for my build
date range about the driver side valve cover causing oil consumption.
That cover has the PCV integrated (really!?). When oil shoots up from
the pushrods, it can get suspended on the baffle plate and then sucked
out through the PCV orifice and right into the intake. There's supposed
to be crankcase vapors exiting, not fricken oil! So they came out with
a new design with a larger baffle drain and in a different position. I
was out of warranty, but I made GM replace it anyway since the last
dealer I took it to didn't even check for that issue. Most dealer techs
and service managers are idiots.
As Chuck said, yes, it will burn a bit of oil until the rings are
seated. A quart is a lot though. One concern is ring gap alignment
which can happen at any time. Compression testing can reveal it.
Keep an eye on it and then call Generac if needed.
On 6/23/2016 11:58 AM, Bill Prince wrote:
Aluminum block, but iron sleeves? Almost no one that I'm aware does a
pure aluminum block since the Vega fiasco back in the 1970s.
Aluminum is great for heat disipation, and lightness. However, you
wouldn't typically see it used as an economy measure.
bp <part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>
On 6/23/2016 9:48 AM, Adam Moffett wrote:
I had a Generac Guardian running continuously for two weeks. At the
end of the two weeks I checked the oil and it was so low the dipstick
came out dry. We added almost a quart.
It's 990cc engine with an aluminum block. I've heard aluminum blocks
can drink oil because they expand more with heat as compared to cast
iron.....but as contrary evidence my Hyundai Elantra has an aluminum
block and doesn't lose oil over time.
The manual says to check the oil daily if you're running
continuously, but I thought they were just being overly cautious.
The genny's brand new so I'm kind of stunned.
Could this really be normal?
