Xbox One S looks to be ~105 watts at full load from the first few websites. I can see the laptop being 50 watts.
On a lot of vehicles all the 12v outlets are on one fuse, be aware of that. If you only want say 300 watts why not get a 1000 watt inverter, fuse it, and throw on a PriorityStart so you don't kill the battery? Should be like $400 total. Josh Luthman Office: 937-552-2340 Direct: 937-552-2343 1100 Wayne St Suite 1337 Troy, OH 45373 On Wed, Jul 12, 2017 at 2:21 AM, Sterling Jacobson <[email protected]> wrote: > I think the alternator is buried in my Toyota Sienna, so I’m not going to > mess with it, or a second battery I guess. > > > > I’ll just live with the combined 100-120w restriction on all the outlets > in my car combined. > > > > I suspect the alternate is bigger than norm just because of that allowance > given to the two AC plugs and DC plugs. > > > > I might try and sneak in a 50W computer for serving videos. Or maybe an > Xbox One S that I think runs around 50-60W. > > > > As long as the kids aren’t all charging their devices at the same time, > lol! > > > > *From:* Af [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *George Skorup > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 11:28 PM > *To:* [email protected] > > *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] OT: Road Trip Battery > > > > Alternator rating = rotor speed, not engine RPM. Crankshaft pulley to > alternator pulley ratio is usually like 3:1. So 2k engine RPM = 6k > alternator RPM = max power. Probably varies by model/mfg. Yeah, idle is > usually gonna be a little bit less. A high-output alternator is the better > choice. You can screw around with pulley ratios for more power at idle, but > you run the risk of over-driving the alternator at higher engine RPM. IIRC, > ~18-20k RPM is ungood for it. > > My '11 Silverado has a 145A alternator. Dual rectifiers. Maybe triple. I > forget. Idle=600 RPM. Still produces at least 110A based on my clamp-on > ammeter and a bad battery that always pulled about 90A. Probably bad cells. > Made it 7 years. New battery pulled around 100A for 10 minutes or so to top > it off. The typical commute of 15-30 minutes should be ample time to > maintain a battery that's in decent shape/age. The law of averages, that's > what the auto mfgs aim for. Most people don't need 180A at idle, just like > most of our customers don't need 1Gbps, or 100Mbps, all the time.. or ever. > > On 7/11/2017 9:05 PM, Adam Moffett wrote: > > My '04 Hyundai Accent has a 90 amp alternator. ....though I never did > figure out how many RPM's they assume when giving you that rating. I read > some conflicting facts on that. > > > > Anyway, I have 1000 watt inverter and I've had approx 600 watts on it > while idling for several hours. I can't prove whether the alternator kept > up or the battery was slowly draining. > > > > > > > > ------ Original Message ------ > > From: [email protected] > > To: "Animal Farm" <[email protected]> > > Sent: 7/11/2017 8:49:23 PM > > Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Road Trip Battery > > > > If you install the isolation diodes, then yes. But that only prevents a > dead starter battery. If you have 3-4 devices all using 50 watts, and you > have a 50 amp alternator, you only have 600 watts total. The air > conditioner blower is going to take probably 200 watts, the onboard > electronics perhaps 100 watts. So maybe 300 excess. I wouldn’t count on > even that much. I have seen aux connectors fused at 15 amps so that is 180 > watts. > > > > My dell has a 90 watt power supply. So two of those running non stop? > > > > *From:* Jaime Solorza > > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 6:32 PM > > *To:* Animal Farm > > *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] OT: Road Trip Battery > > > > Not at all...Pep Boys and others sell a simple to install dual battery > inverter and heavy duty fuse system. A good quality inverter would work > well and no big thing to install. I use this for wiring up inverters for > vans and buses to a solenoid to start inverter when vehicle is started. > Prevents draining battery.. > > Jaime Solorza > > > > On Jul 11, 2017 6:14 PM, "Sterling Jacobson" <[email protected]> wrote: > > I've got a cross country family trip from Utah to New York coming up and I > want to wire up a secondary battery to my Toyota Minivan. > > I know, maybe I'm crazy, but I want to be able to run all our electronics > on the trip, including maybe a computer for serving up video (another > topic). > > I want it on a secondary system so I get more power and don't kill the > main car battery. > > From what I gather I would need a sealed battery to avoid fumes (mostly). > I would need a some sort of control system so the battery can charge from > the alternator, but not drain the main battery. > I need high gage wire between the batteries/alternater along with fuse, > and also between secondary battery and large inverter for AC power. > > Probably not possible to shove another battery under the hood of the > mini-van, but I haven't checked. > > Is this a silly idea? > > >
