Maaf ni kalo masih dalam bahasa sansekerta.. Saya juga bingung kalo terjemahin sendiri..Mungkin masih ada yang mau order lagi biji stroberinya ? Masih sisa 5 kg lagi nih..
====================================== SEMUANYA ADA DI: http://tiny.cc/kios Bekal Sukses Anda Berbisnis Agro INFO: 0 8 1 1 1 8 5 9 2 9 (SMS Only) ====================================== |a|g|r|o|m|a|n|i|a Online & Terpercaya Sejak 1 Agustus 2000 GABUNG DI ABC: http://tiny.cc/formulir BURSA JUAL-BELI: http://tiny.cc/bursa KOPERASI: http://tiny.cc/agrokoperasi Strawberry Seed Growing Information Alpine Strawberry seeds should be cold-treated before planting. Cold treatment simply involves placing the seeds in an airtight bag or jar and putting the seeds in the freezer for two to four weeks, simulating a winter's exposure. When you remove them from the freezer, leave them in the container without opening it for several hours, to let them slowly get back to room temperature before planting. Then start inside, barely covering the seed. Strawberries will grow in almost any soil type, but prefer a sandy loam. The important soil factors to consider are adequate water drainage and abundant organic matter. Soil should be well-cultivated and free of perennial weeds. At planting time, soil should be loosened and pulverized to a depth of eight inches. To avoid problems with verticillium wilt, do not plant strawberries where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, strawberries, or raspberries have grown within three years. Set the plant at the proper depth in the soil; just the tip of the grown should be exposed. Now, spread and set the roots vertically in the soil. Pack the soil firmly around the roots. It is essential to have all parts of the root in contact with the soil. Water plants immediately after planting. If there is not a good rainfall, you'll need to water plants thoroughly at least twice a week. After the plants are set out, during the period of fruit bud development in the fall, during production, and after renovation, extra water may be necessary. Generally, an inch of water per week, either supplied by normal rainfall or supplemental waterings, recommended. The most important aspect of strawberry culture is weed control. Proper site preparation will help control troublesome perennial weeds. After the plants become established, cultivating can begin. Shallow cultivation as close to the plants as possible, combined with hand hoeing, is the recommended practice. To give the strawberry plants maximun growth advantage, weeds should be removed as soon as they appear. Weed control should be practiced until growth stops in the fall. After growth has stopped in the fall, apply at least a three inch layer of straw, marsh hay, pine needles, sudan grass or other suitable material over the topcs of the plants. Avoid sawdust and leaves because they pack to tightly and smother the plants. Watering the mulch lightly will help settle it and reduce loss from wind. Mulching helps protect the plants during severe winters, delays growth in spring (to protect against frosts), helps conserve moisture, and, and helps with weed control. Apply a mulch when the temperature drops to about 20 degrees for several days in a row or several times in a week. The rule of thumb is to mulch after the soil is frozen to a depth of one-half inch. Don't apply mulch after several warm, sunny days. If you mulch during warm weather, the plants may start growing again. Then the plants can be severely damaged when the weather turns cold. Remove the mulch in spring as soon as new leaf growth begins to turn yellow (due to lack of sunlight); but not before there is still any danger of temperatures dipping into the 20's. Part the mulch over the top of the row, moving the mulch into the alleyways. Leave a thin layer of mulch on the plants to protect the developing berries and help with moisture conservation. If a strawberry bed is free of weed, disease, or insect problems and has borne a good crop of berries, you should consider fruiting the bed another year. After harvest, remove mulch and now the foliage as close to the bed as possible. Remove weak and extra plants and weeds. Cultivate between the rows of plants, and apply fertilizer. ===================== Strawberry seeds are so plentiful that they can be bothersome. I know people who refuse to eat even the juiciest, ripest strawberries because they don't like having the seeds stuck between their teeth. There's not much you can do to remove the seeds, either--they're all over! Because strawberry seeds are so plentiful, it can seem strange that more people don't grow their own strawberries from seeds. It seems easy enough to scrape off a few seeds and then wait for them to grow. When people try to plant strawberry seeds, though, they're usually disappointed. Either the seeds don't grow at all, or the strawberries the seeds produce don't look or taste anything like the strawberries they came from. To understand how to grow strawberries from seeds, it's important to know a little bit about plant biology. In the wild, strawberries are usually dioecious, which means that they can be either male or female. In order to grow strawberries, pollen from the male plants must fertilize the female plants. Strawberry growers, though, have developed plants that are monoecious, and can self-pollinate. These plants grow strawberries that taste great, but their seeds don't produce clones of the parent plants. Inventive gardeners don't have to give up on the idea of growing strawberries from strawberry seeds, though. When a gardener plants the seeds of several different strawberry varieties, the flowers will cross-pollinate and make a new kind of strawberry, one that does look and taste as good as the parent varieties. By experimenting with different combinations, gardeners can create new strawberries with all of the qualities they are looking for. The steps for growing strawberries from seeds are easy enough that even beginning gardeners can start growing their own hybrid berries. * Some strawberry seeds, including alpine strawberries, need to be cold-treated before planting. Wrap the seeds and put them in the freezer for about a month. Let them warm up slowly. * Germinate strawberry seeds by placing them under a thin layer of soil and keeping them moist. * When the plants get their second set of true leaves, thin them out, leaving three to four inches between plants. Or, replant them into separate containers. * Once the plants are big enough to plant in the garden, remember to introduce them to the outdoors gradually. Start by setting them outside for a few hours in the afternoon, adding an hour or two each day. * Transplant your plants into your garden. Pinch off the first flowers so that your plants will develop strong roots. * Enjoy! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
