Hi Wayne, Couple of comments inline:
>I would guess one of the obvious, I know, duh! Either you do still have air >in the system or you are the unluckiest person alive with master cylinders. >I am leaning towards a lot of air in the system. Honest guys, I'm pretty confident that there is no air in the system. We have bled it multiple times at every junction in the system from the MC, into the proportioning valve, out from the proportioning valve, at the calipers, etc etc. We've changed the color of the flid so we can see the old stuff (which was new stuff 3 days prior) come out and the new stuff come through. We've pedal bled and used a pressure bleeder. >I have heard of replacing the rear transaxle calipers with spider calipers, >I've just not seen it. When the spider calipers are installed is the bleed >screw in a position to allow all the air out of the calipers? The transaxle >calipers go pretty much straight across the top don't they? And the spider >rears are pretty much at 3 and 9 o'clock aren't they? I'm 2100 miles from >my Alfetta and Spider so I can't go look. Not quite straight across the top, but yes, closer to the top. Yes, the bleed screws are oriented at the top of the caliper (and therefore difficult to access). Now that you mention it, if we raise the rear of the car, we might bleed the lines better, but we'll probably have to bleed the calipers again with the car level. In the fwiw dept, the calipers bolt right in, and use the same pads that the stock calipers used. >I would remove the rear calipers and hang or hold them in a bleeder-up >position approximate to their normal position on a spider with a block of >wood or something to fill the space where the rotor goes and try to bleed >them that way and see if you get a pedal. With a block of wood or something >solid in the caliper you shouldn't have to remount them to get pedal feel. You haven't removed the rear calipers in your Alfetta recently, have you? ;) To remove the calipers, you have to disconnect the inside ends of the half shafts, remove the rotors, ... It's much easier for us to change the orientation of the car. >From my limited experience every time I have had air in the system the pedal >would pump up and hold. If a quick stab gave a firm pedal and then holding >the pedal down with gentle steady pressure resulted in a change in the pedal >position then the master was no good. Agreed. However, when not pumping, the pedal is not just mushy, it sinks easily to the floor. In my experience, we'd either have to have significant air in the system for that to happen, or a significant leak. >Engine off, pump the pedal, does it pump up to a hard pedal and then while >holding it start the car. Does the pedal go to normal? booster is working. >For your vacuum drop check, there should be a check valve in line, is that >good? I don't know if or how that might affect the test. Will try that this evening. >If one of your previous master cylinders was bad did it leak into the >booster? If the booster is full of fluid I believe I remember that creating >a hard pedal with little braking, but could be wrong on that. No fluid leaks into the booster. >Good Luck, >Let us know what solves it. Tonight's the night! Thanks All! bs -- to be removed from alfa, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe alfa" to [email protected]
