i've done many.however you'll have to be ready to release the valve springs
and after to replace the valve springs with its holders.you'd best have the
right tools handy.to hold the valve in a closed position you'll need a
compressor and a fitting which goes into the spark plug hole.60 lbs of
pressure should hold the valve closed and give you the time to release the
valve keys(holders)(kyles).after the springs come out you can use a long
needle nose plyer to remove the old stem seal.the same plyer can be used to
insert or better phrased worry the new seal on the guide.put back your
springs.put your upper spring retainer and put your pressure on the retainer
till there's enough room to insert the keys.slowly release the spring and if
all is well give the middle of the top of the valve a lite tap or two with a
hammer.put your spacer and follower on and return your cam and check its time
slot.alternatly i wouldnt worry about driving acouple hundred miles if
 this ripped valve seal is the only problem........but i'd check compression
just the same.

--- On Sun, 6/20/10, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:


From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [alfa] broken valve stem seal
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, June 20, 2010, 2:29 PM


Gentile Alfisti,
Investigating the possible cause of an intermittent miss in my 2L GTV, I was
checking the valve clearances and discovered bits of the valve seal beneath
the no. 2 intake follower.  There was the fine spring and a few shards of
green plastic.  Has anyone ever seen a stem seal come apart like this? No
evident smoke, which is surprising.  Still, I don't think it's prudent to
drive the 250 miles or so to the convention with this known problem.  Can a
valve stem seal be replaced with the head on the car?  Please talk to me
Digest.
modelle in somers point
115.01, 115.02
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