I spent a few minutes last night testing each spark plug with my trusty
induction strobe light.  I zip-tied the trigger down, laid it on the engine
and pointed it at the drivers seat.  I started the car for the first 2 plug
wires; both flashed nice and bright until the engine died.  Then I tried to
see if I could get the engine to run longer than 10 seconds at a time so I
could work a bit faster.  Surprisingly enough, I did get it to idle with
the gas pedal about = down  I used the throttle handle to keep it running
as I rummaged about in the engine compartment.  I tested the remaining two
plug wires and they flashed as prettily as the other two.  No help here.



While staring at that lumpish engine, I decided that maybe I should retrace
my diagnostic steps from the beginning since it was running longer than 10
seconds at a time..  My eyes focused on the SPICA pump and my hand reached
for the wire on the cold start solenoid (CCS)  pulling it off which made no
difference - put it back on.  Pulled the wire off the fuel cut-off solenoid
 (FC-OS) it immediately perked up and sounded right !  What !!??  Huh ???
WTF
???  I pulled it on/off several times to make sure I wasnt hearing things
but yes, the FC-OS was the culprit!



Now the FC-OS was being powered by the always-on micro-switch.  And instead
of killing the engine, it was only doing half a**ed job.  The CCS would feed
enough gas to get the engine started but as it reduced the flow, the FC-OS
wouldnt allow enough to keep it running without some serious gas pedal
input.



But I thought that I had tested these two wires way at the beginning of this
frustrating episode but thinking back on it, I really hadnt.I just assumed
a few things.  When the symptoms first appeared I was on the street heading
to work.  The first thing I did was open the hood, removed the fresh air
tube from the air cleaner and reach in to pull off the CSSs wire and
restart the car.  Then I went back and put that wire back on the CCS which
was when I found the FC-OS wire loose already loose.  My instant reasoning
when like this: MMmmm, removed CCS wire and FC-OS wire already removed then
both did not affect the operation.  FC-OS wire was never attached therefore
it never affected the operationrule them both out.  I had previously
removed the FC-OS wire since I was getting a wee bit o backfiring on
deceleration and I was testing things out.  Then to make matters all that
much worse I put the FC-OS wire back on thinking that it didnt matter.



Now I believe that the FC-OS wire was barely touching the terminal on the
FC-OS and making it misbehave.  But Ive no idea if the SPICA micro switch
failed on its own or did the loose FC-OS wire short out at some time and
that fried the switch.  Ill be testing the FC-OS wire for voltage; maybe a
low voltage wasnt enough to fully power the solenoid but enough to make it
be half on.  Then Ill jumper the FC-OS from the battery to see if it is
still useable.  Ill leave the micro switch alone until I pull the SPICA in
the future.



There were two good things that came out of this:  I found that Im not
getting a full 12v at the coil which needs to traced down, and I went and
changed the front fuel filter which is a real PITA to do so I have been
putting it off.


Thanks for all the suggestions as to where to look for the cause.  Here's
one instance where an electrical problem caused a fuel problem!



Bruce


'73 GTV

On Fri, Sep 30, 2011 at 9:54 AM, Bruce Giller <[email protected]> wrote:

> My '73 GTV suddenly developed a problem on the way to the track today (so
> much for any fun this weekend).  It started up fine and idled easily in the
> driveway - like it always does.  But just 100 yards down the road it died
as
> I was shifting.  After that I could get it to start and it would run and
> then the rpms would just slowly drops until dead.  If I held the throttle
> down a bit it might stay running a bit longer but not by much.  I started
it
> about 20 times with the same results - the engine ran strong (read normal
> sounding) after catching and then fall off.  I was able to get it back to
> the house by holding the throttle almost to the floor (no power at all to
go
> up even a modest incline) and re-starting it when it died.  Needless to say
> I had some very choice words to say to it....
>
> It sounds very much like a gasoline supply problem but the low pressure
> fuel light which is on before turning the key, was off quickly after
hearing
> the fuel pump running - the fuel pump was running all the time.  My current
> suspect is water in the gas but I thought that water would prevent it from
>  starting easily which isn't the case.  And it drove nicely yesterday
> afternoon on the same tank of gas.
>
> Any ideas where I should investigate?  If I can get it fixed by Sat. I can
> drive up to Summit Point on Sunday to get at least one day of track time
> this year.
>
> Bruce
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