If the carb s were jetted correctly to start with, I would firstly check 
the adjustment carefully before playing around with jets. Try the following:
1. check the throttle preload; does the actuator spring "force" the 
butterflies shut when you lift off the accelerator? Unless the preload 
is present, the carbs won't behave correctly and you'll find it 
impossible to get a smooth idle and transition also.

2. Which model of DCOEs is fitted to your engine? Some require the idle 
adjusting screws (the 4 screws with tapered needles at the seat end) to 
be backed off 2 and 1/2 turns from closed while others are backed off 
only 1 and 1/2 turns. (Here we go: there's going to be a whole lot of 
people telling you this is wrong!).

3. Does the idle hang up rather than settle to 800 rpm when you open the 
throttle then release it suddenly? If it hangs up and comes back to 
idles only slowly, your balance between the two carbs is not set 
correctly. I adjust the balance by listening to the airflow tone with a 
tube stuck in my ear (I'm a musician as well!). Get a musician friend to 
help, preferably a blues man or classical musician and not a heavy metal 
exponent whose ears are probably shot. :-).

If all of these check out, then you could start looking elsewhere. Hope 
this helps.

I collected my GTV which had been supposedly undergoing restoration for 
about 5 years and trailered it back. What I got what was a parts car. My 
mistake was listening to "Alfisti's" recommendation and giving the car 
to a body shop 6 hours drive from where I live so I couldn't keep and 
eye on it. Now it's back to Square Uno. Damn.

Les
Wellington, New Zealand

>> On Sep 4, 2014, at 6:00 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> Gentle Alfisti,
>> The 1600 is now a 1700 with Spruell's kit. New Webers don't provide smooth
> transition from idle. In the Digest's opinion, should I look at jetting or
> dizzy advance? Would a stumble come from too slow an advance?
>> modelle105.04, 115.02
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