here's my two cents.had starting issues with a milano and a gtv6.the milano
was a matter of a problem with the ecu.changed that and starting problem
solved.the gtv6 was a bit more complex.there was a short which kept burning
out a tract in the ecu.we kept repairing the tract but could not find the
short.you can believe me ,we checked every dam sensor and line connected to
the ecu.i'd put in a good ecu and then start the car and let her run ,then
turn off the ignition,then try to start again,oooops.burned out ecu.lol.i
laugh because problem was found.a light bulb lit up above my head.i put in a
good ecu.then i put my probe on the metal gaurd on top of the starter.then i
gave a start signal to the bi-relay.THERE WAS THE LITTLE BASTARD.i received a
positive on the starter gaurd metal.that's why B i couldn't find that short
when everthing was running or when the car was silent with ignition on.just
when the started was working the slight vibration would cause a contact
continuation for a moment between the positive cable of the starter and the
metal gaurd which is a negative of corse.took off the gaurd and put in a good
ecu.see ya later alligator to the problem.
On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 6:33 AM, Eric Hambleton
<[email protected]> wrote:
I'll channel the advice of many of the great mentors who advised me at one
point or another: air, fuel, and spark. Take each one to its conclusion and
never assume anything. Don't get bogged in minutiae until necessary. The
L-Jet
system is one of the most durable and wonderful systems ever to be fitted to
cars.
(Hopefully, Fred D. is smiling from heaven right now.)
I recommend taking these in order even if you're "sure" they are fine. (Ask
me
how I know.)
-= Spark =-
The easiest of the goddesses to appease. While an assistant cranks the car,
look for lightning on all six plugs by removing the plugs one by one,
attaching them to their leads, grounding them to the block and verifying the
spark.
-= Fuel =-
As I recall, the 162 is an L-Jet car with an intake flap-type MAF. To
completely rule out delivery issues, put a fuel pressure gauge inline on the
input side of the fuel rail, turn on the car and open the flap. The pump
should run and the appropriate pressure should be seen on the gauge (30-40
LBS, I think.) Flow/delivery issues will not keep the car from starting and
idling -- a mere trickle will be enough.
-= Air =-
The most complex problem. Old L-Jet systems typical suffer from too much of
it
due to cracks and leaks. Inspect *everything* twice. Make no assumptions. In
my experience, idle/auxiliary inputs have been the biggest culprits in L-Jet
and Motronic systems followed by leaks in the injector seals.
Once the above have been ruled out, then verify cam timing. After that, check
the electrical connections -- grounding is #1, reseating existing connectors
(and checking for corrosion) is #2 (especially the injector connectors!).
Once all of the above have been done, well, it's time for all of the rarer
stuff. I'd start with the injectors themselves because you already replaced
the seals under "-= Air =-", right? L-Jet injectors are cheaper than iridium
spark plugs last time I checked.
162 cars are nowhere as complex as 164s. You WILL find the problem and it
will
likely be solvable.
- Eric H., Marietta, GA (ironically in the midst of selling my final Alfa)
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