If I could find out the diode type, I could replace them, the inductor looks to be a match with another one (forward/reflected?). It's a small potted thing, almost looks like a cross between a resistor and a small electrolytic cap.
I don't know how you would calibrate it for average and pep, the average I could do off another working meter. I use the watt meter partly as a performance monitor, its right in front of the operating position, so if the swr goes wacko, or the audio screws up, the meter will show it. I have a regular scan of the plate current, grid current, watt meter, mod monitor when I first get on, then every once and a while do a re-scan. There is a hole in my scan now! Brett N2DTS > > I have a Bird 4411 which uses one slug for 2-30 Mcy. The > meter has a switch > that will change the power scale from 10 watts to 10K watts. > > It is not a true peak meter but there is a formula that > derives it in the > book. The 4411 is a 4410 with provisions for AC input, the > 4410 is 9V > battery powered only, I think. The drawback to these meters > is you usually > find the meter without the slug, and the meter is expensive. > I have seen > them at hamfests, but the slug is hard to find and very > expensive. It is > accurate to 5% of full scale. > > As for the diodes most any matched diodes would probably > work. Seems as if > the Drake MN 2000 had 1N295 or some such. Someone with a > manual could > check. Get a handful of the NTE replacements and match them, > they are > inexpensive. > > 73 Jim > W5JO >
