Don wrote:

You need to bypass the cathode of the 12BY7 to ground when the VFO is
in use.
The stage will be more stable and possibly deliver better output.
Simply connect a 0.01 mfd capacitor, similar to C5 and C7, between the
cathode (pin 1 of the 12BY7) and the unused contact on S1.

Very slick idea to use the other pole of the switch. I did test bypassing the cathode as you describe when I was testing the VFO input. I tried both .001 and .01 temporarily in place and it was no different than the existing 330 pF alone, so I didn't pursue it further.

Steve WD8DAS

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.wd8das.net/
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-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: [AMRadio] Re: DDS VFO projects

 > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [AMRadio] DDS VFO projects
> To: [email protected]
>> In response to some inquiries, here's a webpage summarizing my DDS VFO
> projects...
>
> http://www.wd8das.net/DDSVFO/ddsvfo.html
>
> Steve WD8DAS

You need to bypass the cathode of the 12BY7 to ground when the VFO is in use. The stage will be more stable and possibly deliver better output. Simply connect a 0.01 mfd capacitor, similar to C5 and C7, between the cathode (pin 1 of the 12BY7) and the unused contact on S1.

On mine, I use a low impedance VFO about 10 ft. from the transmitter. The VFO runs about 250 milliwatts into a 50-ohm load. I inject the rf directly to pin 1 through a 0.05 mfd mica coupling capacitor, and short pin 2 directly to ground. I disconnected the wire from the junction of C3 and C4 that goes to the cathode. This converts the 12BY7 to a grounded grid buffer stage. Your DDS VFO may not have enough output to do this without an amplifier between the DDS unit and the 12BY7, so your circuit may work better, but I would make sure the cathode is at rf ground. Turning S1 back to the crystal positions in yours restores it to normal crystal control.

I disabled the crystal control function altogether in mine, and used one of the holes that originally had C1 or C2, to hold remounted C9. As I recall, I had to replace C9 with another capacitor with a longer shaft because the original was screwdriver adjustable. But now I can adjust the tuning of L3/C9 with a tuning knob from the front panel, without having to go inside the transmitter, remove the cover of the oscillator unit and adjust the slug in L3. I had to remove some turns from L3 to get it to resonate in the 160m band. Then I adjusted the slug by setting C9 at mid range, and adjusting the slug in L3 for resonance at 1900 kHz. I used trial and error when removing the turns by removing just a few turns at time until I could bring it into adjustment with the slug, with leeway in both directions of the tuning range of the slug.

Don k4kyv
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