Trees in Central Washington sustained a lot of trunk damage in November 2010, 
an event now called the "Thanksgiving freeze." Daily high temperatures that had 
been 55 to 60 Fahrenheit (15C) dropped to as low as -5 to -18F (-23C). The 
trunks of many trees were not ready for this, so we saw a lot of discoloration 
under the bark the next spring.

The most seriously injured trees showed symptoms the first spring, 2012, with 
bark splitting and peeling. Trees flowered, began to grow foliage and collapsed 
by the middle of summer. Many trees that were damaged did not die in 2012, but 
they were obviously suffering from the effects of the cold snap. I saw another 
wave of trees die in 2013 as the cold damaged trunks were attacked by secondary 
organisms, especially those that cause cankers. Perennial canker seems to be 
one of the most dangerous, as it continues to spread on the trunk when 
aggravated by woolly apple aphid.

Last week I saw my most recent case of trees dying from the 2010 event, due to 
what I believe is perennial canker.  This problem is widespread, it is a 
serious problem in some of the low spots and orchards that experienced 
temperatures even lower than those recorded by remote weather stations.

Most of you have probably already experienced this sort of thing in the past. 
However, if you haven't, please be aware that you could lose trees for two or 
three more years if you have a winter severe enough to cause bark splitting on 
tree trunks.

Tim Smith
Regional Extension Specialist
WSU -- Wenatchee Washington


From: [email protected] 
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Peck, Greg
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2014 6:47 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Southwest Injury

Thanks to all those who responded to my email. Yes, for SWI (and most things in 
orchard systems),  "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". For those 
who missed it, there was a long discussion on trunk painting last year: 
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg02242.html

>From reading all the responses, and considering the lack of tree availability 
>for replanting this spring, it seems to me that it might be worth trying the 
>salvage some of less damaged trunks by closing up the split bark. Debbie's 
>rule-of-thumb sounds reasonable and would give growers some idea as to when to 
>just move on.

As Debbie also pointed out, the wounds could be an entry site for borers. The 
wound sites might also be a location for WAA colonies, which seem to have 
gotten worse under our BMSB-focused insecticide programs. I guess the exposed 
tissue could also be an entry point for herbicides.

While bridge grafting is probably technically feasible, I'm getting the sense 
that it may not be worth the time. It's up to each grower to make that 
decision, but I'd be hesitant to say it's an economically feasible choice for 
large blocks of high-density trees unless you have a talented grafter on-staff.

Greg
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Gregory Michael Peck, Ph.D.
Assistant Professor of Horticulture
Virginia Tech
Alson H. Smith, Jr. Agricultural Research and Extension Center
595 Laurel Grove Road
Winchester, VA 22602 USA
540/869-2560 ext 19
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
arec.vaes.vt.edu/alson-h-smith
www.anr.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit/<http://www.anr.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit/>
blogs.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit-horticulture<http://blogs.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit-horticulture>
www.facebook.com/VtechPomology<http://www.facebook.com/VtechPomology>

On Mar 17, 2014, at 10:05 AM, Deborah I. Breth 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:


Greg,
You could use the rule of thumb for canker surgery and if more than a 1/3 of 
the circumference is interrupted, likely nothing you can do.  But if less than 
1/3, try to cut the dead bark away using a straight linoleum  cut so there is 
no shelter (under the split bark) that will attract and support the borers.  
The callus will be more uniform and  heal that part of the trunk.  There will 
always be the unknown with wood rotting fungi invading the exposed heart wood.
Good luck.

Deborah I. Breth
Cornell Cooperative Extension - Lake Ontario Fruit Program
Team Leader and IPM Specialist in Tree Fruit and Berries
12690 Rt. 31
Albion, NY   14411

mobile:  585.747.6039
phone: 585.798.4265 x 36
fax:  585.798.5191

email: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
LOF website


-----Original Message-----
From: 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
 [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2014 12:30 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Southwest Injury

Greg;

We get the same damage here in Southern California, but from sunburn, not 
Southwest Injury.  But the damage is the same, dead cambium layer and sunken 
bark.  Besides robbing vigor from the tree, here it also attracts borers who 
take advantage of the tree's inability to sap out the maggot, and exploit the 
edges of the injury.  The wounds will not heal; they may eventually be covered 
by cambium growing from either side, like a pruning stump is covered over.

Bridge grafting is easier on shorter injuries like vole and rabbit damage; the 
problem with SWI is that the wounds are long and narrow. Cutting the tree off 
and letting a latent bud sprout may be a viable option depending on the damage, 
but you will have to weigh the loss of productivity against how long it would 
take if you just pruned the tree hard and let it try to heal the SWI.

Painting trunks white, especially with an airless sprayer, seems way less 
trouble than any of this.

Kevin Hauser
Kuffel Creek Apple Nursery
Riverside, California
Nakifuma, Uganda, East Africa

On Sun, 16 Mar 2014 10:42:00 -0400, "Peck, Greg" 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
wrote:

Apple-Crop participants,

Like everyone else in the Eastern half of the US, we've had a
particularly

cold and snowy winter in Virginia. Not surprisingly, I am starting to
hear

reports about Southwest injury to young trees. While there is a lot of
information available on how to prevent southwest injury, I have not
been

able to find much information on how to deal with the trunks after the
damage has been done. Typically, growers in Virginia have do not paint
trunks with latex paint, but many will probably reconsider that
decision
in

future years.

Many trees are probably not going to make it, but I'm wondering if
anyone

has experience trying to save some of the less severely injured trees
with

bridge-grafts. How about wrapping the bark with grafting tape to try
to
get

the wounds to heal? (I'm guessing that this will have a low success
rate because the tissue has already dried out.) Depending upon how far
into
the

rootstock the split extends and the age of the tree, we might also try
cutting off the scion and hoping an advantageous bud breaks dormancy.

Any other suggestions from those who have to deal with Southwest
Injury
on

a more annual basis?

Thanks,
Greg
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Gregory Michael Peck, Ph.D.
Assistant Professor of Horticulture
Virginia Tech
Alson H. Smith, Jr. Agricultural Research and Extension Center
595 Laurel Grove Road
Winchester, VA 22602 USA
540/869-2560 ext 19
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]><mailto:[email protected]>
arec.vaes.vt.edu/alson-h-smith<http://arec.vaes.vt.edu/alson-h-smith>
www.anr.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit/<http://www.anr.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit/>
blogs.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit-horticulture<http://blogs.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit-horticulture><http://blogs.ext.vt.edu/tree-fruit-horticulture>

www.facebook.com/VtechPomology<http://www.facebook.com/VtechPomology><http://www.facebook.com/VtechPomology>
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