http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2010/07/23/asbury-park/
Unmarred by chain stores and the sameness that seems to afflict beachside
communities nationwide, Asbury Park is a historic Jersey Coast gem where Beaux
Arts and Victoriana architecture unapologetically stand side by side. As you
stroll you'll discover that at its heart, Asbury Park - which it's acceptable
to call "AP" - is a cluster of mom and pop businesses and other concerns that
keeps the past alive through wonderful kitschy details.
Asbury Park was once a place Presidents vacationed, but along the way - after
1970 riots and a spell of political corruption - AP fell into a state of urban
decay. Locals silently thank Bruce Springsteen for planting the earliest seeds
of urban renewal by naming his 1973 sophomore album "Greetings From Asbury
Park" after playing around town for several years and having had the courtesy
to grow up in nearby Red Bank.
A car's not necessary if you're striking out from the New York area - ride a NJ
Transit train to the Asbury Park stop and head straight up Cookman Avenue to
the Boardwalk - AP's highlights are within a square mile of here. As you
stroll Cookman you'll have your pick of pre-boardwalk munchies but if you want
to head straight for sand, most local restaurants deliver directly to the
beach. Here now, the "other" Jersey Shore.
5
Take a walk on the boardwalk.
The boardwalk greets you with a large yellow-and-black sign with a
patina-covered copper schooner sitting atop it, which might remind you that one
of maritime's worst tragedies ever took place just outside AP's famous
Convention Hall in 1934. The Morro Castle cruise ship's library caught fire and
it resulted in 180 people losing their lives. It took a few months for local
authorities to get the remnants of the ship out of the water just east of the
AP Convention Hall. A granite monument was placed on the grounds just in front
of the boardwalk sign to commemorate the tragedy's 75th anniversary in
September 2009.
In its glory days, the Boardwalk was famous for rides and other family
attractions including the Tilt-A-Whirl and Madam Marie's psychic hut, both
glorified in Springsteen's "Fourth Of July Asbury Park (Sandy)" lyrics. Madam
Marie's - smack dab in the center - is one of the few original Boardwalk
attractions still standing. The late Marie Castello actually garnered a New
York Times obituary when she died on June 27, 2008. Family members have since
taken over the business and are available for consultations (732-775-5327).
Legend has it that The Boss maintained a long-running friendship with Madam
Marie, stopping in now and again to chat - and he has stated that the Madam did
predict his success.
In its glory days, the Boardwalk was famous for rides and other family
attractions including the Tilt-A-Whirl and Madam Marie's psychic hut, both
glorified in Springsteen's "Fourth Of July Asbury Park (Sandy)" lyrics. Madam
Marie's - smack dab in the center - is one of the few original Boardwalk
attractions still standing. The late Marie Castello actually garnered a New
York Times obituary when she died on June 27, 2008. Family members have since
taken over the business and are available for consultations (732-775-5327).
Legend has it that The Boss maintained a long-running friendship with Madam
Marie, stopping in now and again to chat - and he has stated that the Madam did
predict his success.
At the Asbury Park Galleria you'll encounter eclectic souvenirs including items
emblazoned with the image of "Tillie" - a roughly-painted portrait of a girl
who oddly looks like The Little Rascals' Alfalfa. You'll also spot Tillie's
likeness on the wall of the Wonder Bar (1213 Ocean Ave., 732-502-8886). Kay
Harris, the owner of the Galleria, is AP's friendly unofficial historian and
she can give you some good advice on the town's "must-sees."
2
Trot over to the Stone Pony.
The Stone Pony (913 Ocean Avenue (corner of 2nd and Ocean Aves., 732-502-0600,
stoneponyonline.com) is one of the most famous rock venues in the world.
Springsteen put it on the map and stars like Patti Smith and Keith Richards
have fought to keep it open in more trying times. The Stone Pony still brings
in the big names and in the late afternoon you can see the rock tour buses pull
into the parking lot just across the street as sound check time approaches.
The boxy 36-year-old club is so small that you can hear the show clearly
standing outside its front awning. The big name talent sells out fast and the
original ambiance remains. The Pony is not just about rock and roll, though -
many blues artists take the stage, plus on Wednesdays there are country shows
presented by Jersey radio station Thunder Country 98.5 and on Thursdays there
is "Open Artist Night," which features all genres of music.
1
This casino's not about gambling.
Closed from 1990 to 2005, the Beaux Arts Asbury Park Casino and Carousel House
(700 Ocean Ave. at First Ave.) continues to undergo renovation, though the
attached ornate copper and glass Carousel House is fully renovated and is the
epicenter for serious theater in AP. For Summer Season 2010, Revision Theatre
(732-455-3059, revisiontheatre.org) is presenting The Who's Tommy, the world
premiere of the musical The Bikinis and The Rocky Horror Picture Show (ticket
prices range $50-$90 depending on night). Flea markets also take place here in
summer.
Look thirty feet north from the Casino and find the First Avenue Pavilion (800
Ocean Ave. at 1st Ave.) that boasts the rainbow-colored scoop-it-yourself
Candyteria (732-988-1122, candyteria.com) where most confections are about
$5-$6 per pound and you can even lick homemade ice cream with an oceanfront
view.
Also check out the First Avenue Pavilion's Bodega Shoppe, which offers trendy
home furnishings and bric-a-brac (732-775-4005, bodegashoppe.com) and the
mid-century antique shop Corazza (732-361-3179, corazzamodern.com). They are
both antique browser's paradises and don't be surprised if you find anything
from AP city signs to furniture fit for a 1940's Hollywood starlet.
A final note: what's truly incredible is that the AP Chamber Of Commerce has
been diligently buying back all the horses from the original Carousel House
carousel - it was sold off piece by piece in the late 80s and early 90s. Once
re-assembled, it will be put back into its rightful place.
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