'All I wanted was a good hot water bath and a cosy bed'

http://www.tehelka.com/story_main37.asp?filename=hub230208AllWanted.asp



Raghu Guria
Is 34 years old. Has been a filmmaker for the last 13 years. 
Currently based in Delhi and working as an independent filmmaker

I WAS RESTLESS and weary as the warm October morning breeze hit me on 
the face. We had just landed at the Mumbai international airport all 
the way from Kenya. I had not had any sleep for 26 hours. All I 
wanted was a good hot water bath and a cosy bed. Little did I know, 
"Dilli abhi door hai".

I made my way towards custom clearance. The official looked at my 
passport and then looked at me. "Where is your yellow fever 
certificate?" he thundered.

"What's that?" I was puzzled.
"You have travelled to Kenya and you don't have a yellow fever certificate?"
"Nobody told me anything about it."
"Nobody tells you about it. It's the law. You should know."
"Fine! I don't have it. Do as you like."

The custom officer broke into a smile. I was bewildered. He ushered 
me into a cabin and handed my passport to the Airport Health Officer. 
I figured the health officer would do a quick check-up, ascertain 
that I don't have yellow fever disease, apologise and let me go.

But that was not to be. I was informed that I would be spending the 
next six days at a government health centre. "Six days? Are you 
crazy? Do you know I'm a mediaperson?" I ranted and raged.

My host, however, was benevolence personified after pronouncing the 
verdict. Three constables escorted me to the government health 
centre. I was already beginning to feel sick. Not with yellow fever, 
but by seeing the amount of filth around me. The property was 
surrounded by slums from all sides; it had the stinkiest drain 
flowing just two metres away from the entrance of the building.

Did I say "building"? It was more like a ruin. There was a thick 
jungle of wild bushes and plenty of mosquitoes. I didn't know about 
yellow fever from Kenya but I was sure that, at the end of six days, 
I'd definitely leave this place with dengue. It turned out that the 
'Government Health Centre' was actually a euphemism for 'Quarantine 
Centre for Government of India', its real name. It was built in 1942. 
It finally dawned upon me that I had been officially quarantined.

I was furious. When the warden arrived, I demanded to see in writing 
that it was mandatory to carry a yellow fever certificate to visit 
Kenya. He showed me a handwritten note, which listed practically all 
of Africa as a Yellow Fever zone. I was flabbergasted. "How can you 
claim a tattered handwritten piece of paper as official?" I asked. 
The warden had been in that post for fifteen years and was quite 
inured to such questions. He informed me that had I made a stopover 
even for a day in a country not in the yellow fever zone, the Indian 
government would have had no problems in letting me in.

This was funny. How would stopping over in a country cure me of 
yellow fever if I had contracted it? The warden helpfully added that 
I could still escape my predicament by choosing to fly out of India 
and come back in a few days time. But in the interim, since he liked 
media-persons, as a special favour, I was being given a choice of 
beds - Sania Mirza or Dino Morea. I chose the bed, which I was told, 
had been used by our young tennis star when she had been quarantined.

I was still trying to take stock when an elderly gentleman came up to 
me with a cup of tea. I shook my head. "Have it, have it. You still 
have five more days to go," he said. Turned out he had also been 
quarantined and was on his fourth day. Another captive was a priest 
from the local church. "Do they allow home food?" he enquired. The 
third inmate rarely stepped out of his room. When he did, it was to 
borrow a mobile-phone charger. He had arrived a day earlier and 
contrived to get his wife from Baroda to come and be quarantined with 
him!

So I spent six days there. We had to arrange for our own food, which 
meant ordering out from a list of restaurants whose numbers had been 
provided. There wasn't much to do. As a caretaker explained, the 
property wore a haunted look in part because it sat on prime real 
state and the government had already decided to sell it. There was no 
point in doing any repairs.

I was struck by the fact that in my six days there not once did a 
doctor come to see us. The whole reason we were there was because we 
could have contracted yellow fever. So what exactly was the point of 
this whole exercise? I don't mind being quarantined if I deserved it, 
but these inane, archaic rules were being kept alive just so that 
callous and unscrupulous government officials could make some extra 
money on the side. The only good thing that came out of the whole 
ordeal is that I no longer take my freedom for granted.
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