Forget tea and the one-horned rhino for a while, there is a corner of Assam that will forever be Tai land

Story and photos by PEERAWAT JARIYASOMBAT

 

http://www.bangkokpost.com/en/070405_Horizons/07Apr2005_hori51.php

The vast basin of Brahmaputra River in the northeastern Indian state of Assam invites visitors to come and witness its huge tea plantations, its rare one-horned rhinos and the Ahom or Tai ethnic minority who share the same roots as the people of north Thailand. The plane lurched and I woke up. The seats around me were empty. The aircraft was bound for Guwahati, the capital of Assam.

Looking out of the window I could see hundreds of crests of the Patkai Mountain Range that separates
India and Burma.

The rare one-horned rhino roams freely in Kaziranga National Park.

Four-wheel drives are handy for exploring the wilderness of Kaziranga, but the noise they make also drive rhinos away.

Workers pick tea leaves in a plantation of Addabarie Tea Estate.

Over 800 years ago, these high mountains were roamed by Tai people, who invaded deep into the Brahmaputra valley and subjugated the locals, the Nagas, and established a kingdom. Today, they are known as Ahom and their unique ways and culture are still very much in evidence.

"Our forebearers had developed a remarkable civilisation there," remarked Dr Prasert Prasartthong-osoth, president of Bangkok Airways who was so impressed after learning of their history and the land they had made their home that he decided to fly his aircraft directly from Bangkok to Guwahati.

The aircraft made a turn over the river allowing me to view
Assam from the sky. Vast rice paddies blanketed the valley, their golden hue radiating in sunlight. Coconut palms and small single-storey houses dotted the landscape, just like the Thai countryside not too long ago.

More familiar than the look of the countryside were the features of Ahom people who looked every bit Thai from the way they carried themselves, notably the generous easy-going smile on their faces.

Their trademark friendly smile probably reached
Assam long before Thailand when the first Ahom king, Sukaphaa, and his followers settled in the Brahmaputra basin in 1230 and later expanded to other areas.

They once played a major role in the region and
Assam probably derives its name from them. Their power and glory declined after their kingdom was invaded by the Ava army of Burma. The signing of the Treaty of Yandaboo between the rulers of Ava and the British in 1826, ended their 600-year-rule.

It's remarkable how Ahom people have still managed to retain their culture and traditions given
Assam's history which saw migrant groups enter the state from China, Burma and Southeast Asia, not to mention Aryan influence flowing in from its west, and leave their marks on its political and cultural landscape.

Nikhe Namchum, a Tai Phake girl, performs the traditional bird dance.

A colourfully attired shop attendant poses for the camera.

A pilgrim at Kamakhya Temple.

I came across a group of dancers dressed in skirts and white shawl performing the traditional Tai dance to the accompaniment of drums and gongs. Several Tai words appeared in their song. These performers hailed from Namphake, a village with a population of about 1,000 in Dibrugarh district of the state, and they call themselves Tai Phake.

Accompanying us on this trip was Theeraphab Lohitkul, a features writer, who never missed a beat. On this occasion he walked up to a girl with small nose and sweet eyes who was doing the bird dance, which is quite similar to the one you see in north Thailand, and said something to her.

"Nikhe Namchum," the girl replied. She was telling her name.

"Ever been to
Thailand?," Theeraphab asked again, this time in Thai.

"No," she said, shaking her head. By her looks and gentle manners, she could have easily passed for a Thai on a
Bangkok street.

The Tai Phake are one of three three Tai ethnic minorities still surviving in
Assam, the other two being Aiton and Khamti. Tai Phake people wear gorgeous multi-coloured costumes and speak their own language.

They originally belong to Mogoung in
Burma where they lived until 1700 before deciding to flee Burmese rule. They crossed the Patkai mountains into Assam and after a nomadic existence, in 1850 they settled by the banks of the Buridihing River. They are Buddhist and recently built a new temple in their village. They also splash water during Songkran Festival.

That they have been able to stick to their old beliefs and customs is a remarkable achievement in itself, given that everything else in
Assam is so disorganised and developing the Indian way. Take for example Guwahati, the capital city. Every day, chaos rules the road as every vehicle from tricycles, motorcycles, buses and trucks to horse- and ox-drawn carriages and pedestrians fight for space against the backdrop of ear-splitting noise coming from the blaring of car horns.

I detected strong Aryan influence in
Assam after escaping from the city to Nilachal hills where the ancient Kamakhya Temple is located. It is named after Kamakhya, the goddess of love, and is the most visited temple in the area.

Legend has it that King Daksha organized a sacrifice to insult Lord Shiva. Sati, daughter of Daksha, appeared uninvited at the scene and after seeing her husband Shiva being insulted she committed suicide. Shiva was furious and descended on Daksha and destroyed him. Carrying Sati's dead body on his shoulders, Shiva started the dance of destruction. To calm him down and spare the world his wrath, Vishnu released his chakra which cut through her. Her genitals, the yoni, fell at the spot where the
temple of Kamakhya stands today.

All day the temple compound is packed with Brahmins, pilgrims, merchants, beggars, cattle and pigeons. Me and my guide forced our way through the crowd into the temple whose ceiling and walls were blackened with smoke. Under the pale light of an exhausted electric lamp, I lined up on a narrow staircase that descends to a darker underground chamber whose floor was littered with yellow flowers and banknotes. Murmuring something in his language, the Brahmin priest on duty anointed my forehead with red powder and then directed me to sprinkle my head with water drawn from a holy spring.

"Make a wish, about love if you please," he instructed me almost in a whisper.

Early morning rendezvous ... for a view of rhinos from close range, ride elephants.

The Kamakhya Temple in Nilachal hills is dedicated to the goddess of love.

I left the temple and travelled to the countryside and I found it more comfortable than the city. It was like stepping back into rural Thailand. Rice fields stretched into the horizon, dotted by single-storey houses hidden behind spacious gardens of betel palm. The land was fertile and endowed with rich flora and fauna. Hawks flew at leisure, occasionally swooping in on prey in ponds and canals.

No trip to
Assam is complete without sampling its various blends of tea. The state is India's tea capital. Any where you go, every time you break for rest, sit back and enjoy it over a cup of the flaming brew.

"Indians drink tea five to six times a day. When we can't find anything better to do we drink tea; when we are happy we drink tea; and we also drink it when when we are sad," said Dalip Pande, summing up tea's place in the daily life of Indians.

We hit Addabarie Tea Estate, 25 kilometres north of Tezpur district. Tea plants grew waist high carpeting entire hills.

A legacy of the British going back more than a century,
Assam accounts for more than half of India's tea production, most of which is sold overseas.

"We're not sure where this batch of tea will go, probably
Germany, Britain, or somewhere else. So we need to maintain the best quality," D. K. Sharma, an agent for British Assam Co, owner of the tea estate.

Sharma supervises one of the 13 tea plantations owned by the company. It may sound easy, but his responsibility extends to area covering 700 hectares.

Next stop was
Kaziranga National Park, home to the one-horned Indian rhino and other animal and bird species that thrive in that habitat. It's located by the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra some 217 kilometres from Guwahati. It covers an area of approximately 430 square kilometres full of swamps and tall grass.

I got on a jeep and rode along a dusty road that cut through the park. The ride was bumpy. After a while we stopped by a lake and the driver pointed to what looked like grey dots on the other side. I looked in that direction and saw six rhinos grazing at leisurely place in the company of white cranes. Once declared an endangered species, their number has now swelled to almost 2,000.

Lady Curzon, wife of the British Viceroy to
India at the turn of the last century, visited Kaziranga in the winter of 1904. She came to watch rhinos but saw only their footprints. Realising the species faced imminent extinction, she convinced her husband, Lord Curzon, to save the creature. Subsequently, hunting was banned in the park.

"The number of the rhinos is growing," N. K. Vasu, the park director proudly declared, "We also have more tigers, water buffaloes, swamp deer and various rare birds."

It wasn't wise to approach the rhinos on a jeep so we decided to return the following day. The next morning I rode an elephant admiring wildlife and the greenery as we made its way through thick shrubbery and tall grass. Along the way, I spotted a large flock of swamp deer, water buffaloes and their crescent-shaped horns.

As we approached our target, we became more cautious. The rhino cast a suspicious glance at the elephant before returning to what it was doing _ enjoying a mud bath. There it stood built like a battle tank, its skin thick like armour-plating conveying an aura of invincibility that's associated with the animal.

We were watching from a distance of 10 metres. This was the Great Indian One-Horned Rhino, the second largest of the five species that still exist. And if you didn't know,
Assam is home to 70 per cent of the one-horned rhino species found around the world.

On the way out of the park as I walked past the security checkpoint, I heard a local, a Tai, say: "Did you have a nice trip, sir?" And then he smiled.

It was a sincere smile and it reminded me of home,
Thailand.

 country.

 



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