cliveb;399832 Wrote: 
> Start by turning the TP's volume down very low, connect it directly to
> your power amp and start playing some music. Turn the TP's volume up
> until the playback level is the loudest you'll ever want. At this stage
> you can read off the attenuation from the TP's display - that is the
> amount of passive attenuation you need to add between TP and power
> amp.
> 
> 
> Many people around here seem to like the Endler attenuators. Others
> have used the Rothwell ones with success.
> 
> As far as I'm concerned, both are ridiculously expensive. Once you know
> the required attenutation, the input impedance of your power amp, and
> the output impedance of the TP (which is 100 ohms), you can work out
> the resistor values required and then add 4 resistors in each XLR plug
> to get the attenuation. Total cost is under a dollar, although you do
> of course need to be able to solder.

This advice from Clive is rock solid.


-- 
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...
SB3 (wired) - TACT 2.2X (Linear PSU) + Good Vibrations S/W - MF
Triplethreat(Audiocom full mods) - Linn 5103 - Aktiv 5.1 system (6x
LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Townsend Supertweeters, Blue
Jeans Digital,Kimber Speaker & Chord Interconnect cables
Outdoors: Boom
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