To tugmasters and tow pilots

It has come to my attention that there are about 50 KSA CHT1DT shock cooling 
alert units in use in Australia mostly in towplanes and some may not be set 
correctly or may need checking

The lower adj on the panel is the rapid cooling alert.  To reset or check turn 
anti clockwise till the yellow light just starts to flick continuously then 
turn clockwise for about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns   (two turns corresponds 60deg 
F/min but makers like a max of 40deg F/min cooling which is 1 1/3 turns)  I 
like to set a little under max rate and remember damage is done when going from 
a high temp to a med temp and not a med temp to a low temp so do not worry 
about a few flashes on base leg.  I realise all Aussie units are deg C but just 
use the 5/9 factor if you wish to know degC values

For all aircraft the best thing you can do is get that max temp DOWN and this 
involves TOTAL sealing between top chamber and bottom chamber and infact if you 
were to fit an ASI between top and bottom chamber then it should read 60kts. To 
achieve this

(i) perfect red rubber seals around engine
(ii) silastic everywhere else so not one piece of air gets through except going 
through cylinder and head fins
(iii) and if really keen shells around cylinders like R44 L0540 helicopters 

I do find many LAMEs and even those that work on AG planes do not really 
realise the importance of (i) and (ii) above and will do a 100hly without 
really having it right.  One example is a pawnee was well out of 100hly but 
when putting the top cowl in place the top rubber was bent back rather than 
forward and thus letting air escape. Not one person in 2 months had picked that 
up.  DO NOT trust your LAME to have it right at the end of a 100 hly infact 
that is when I do a full on DI.  

The top adj does the over temp adj and I usually set for 215deg C (or 210deg C) 
and in a long climb light will come on but can be put out by lowering the nose 
and flying 5 kts faster

Set properly the KAS CHT1DT is a great engine insurance policy with a single 
premium, and cracked cylinders should be totaally be a thing of the past.

I also fit a Buzzer as well as light and connect the purple wire to the PPT 
jack (mic tip) to stop the reading going crazy when you transmit

This is not an add but just trying to save clubs from spending $2000+ on 
cracked Pawnee cylinders but I should say it is still up to the pilot and 
cowboy pilots do the damage I can assuer you.

Please phone me if you want more help
 
Ian McPhee (skype   macca304)
Box 657
Byron Bay  NSW  2481  Australia
Tel +61(0)2 66847642 mob +61(0)428847642
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
www.mrsoaring.com 
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