There is a great version of Sao Jorge cheese made in Northern California.
I've been serving it in my wine bar for years.
I have bought all the available imported ones from the  Portuguese grocer in
San Leandro and sampled them with my customers and we all prefer the Matos.
It's distributed by a major restaurant supply house so should be available
all
along the west coast. Here's a  review:
**
*St. George*, made by Joe Matos Cheese Factory

Joe and Mary Matos are from the Azores island. Sao Jorge, off the coast of
Portugal. While Mary was born in the United States, Joe, who came from a
cheesemaking family, immigrated much later. The couple married and called
Santa Rosa, California, home. There is a fairly substantial Portugese
community in this city, about 50 miles north of San Francisco, and since Joe
had cows and knew how to make the cheese from "home," he saw that
cheesemaking might be a means to make a living. Thus was born the cheese
from his home island, Sao George.

St. George, which is modeled after its Portugese counterpart, Sao Jorge, is
a heat-treated raw milk, semi-hard cheese. It is a so-called stirred curd
cheese, which means the curds are gently stirred entirely by hand before
they are salted and scooped into molds. The cheeses are then pressed with
presses fashioned from cinderblocks, before they are placed on the aging
shelves for anywhere between four and nine months, becoming drier and
sharper over time.

The paste or interior of the cheese is a golden yellow color with small
"eyes," and the flavor of the cheese can be described as a cross between
cheddar and Monterey Jack. It is ever-so-slightly sharp yet mellow and
creamy. It is a little grassy and earthy, and it is also slightly tangy with
a lovely fresh milk flavor. This extraordinary cheese goes equally well on a
cheese board as it does on a grilled cheese sandwich.

A visit to the "factory," (more like a large shed) is a step back in time.
No fancy machinery, no precise climate-control systems other than the thick
walls serving to keep a constant temperature, just rows of shelves lined
with wheels of cheese. Many of the cheeses have names on them to identify
the customer for whom that particular cheese is being aged.

If you want to try the cheese, you can call the Matos' but don't bother
getting out your credit card. Instead, plan to write down their address so
that you can send a check or cash. They have never taken credit cards, and
even though their daughter, Sylvia, now runs the show, she says there still
are no plans to change their system.

Part of the glory of such a system is not only that it keeps the prices low
- the cheese currently sells for $5.50 a pound at the farm (a steal for an
artisan cheese of this quality and relatively limited availability) - but it
also retains a bit of old country charm by using old-fashioned trust and
building friendships as a result.
Location:
3669 Llano Rd.
Santa Rosa, CA 95407
(707) 584-5283
No website


Eric Edgar

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