Hi All,

I was asked to explain how I had made the faint scrip stand out better in a 
Photoshopped copy of the record I attached to another post.  So, I thought 
I'd start a new thread on the topic.  

I used Photoshop Elements 10, and it only took a few minutes.   PSE is easy 
to get started with, and I like it for most of what I do.  [The] GIMP is 
also an excellent-- and free-- program that's more powerful, but it also 
has a steeper learning curve.   I'm not familiar with many other image 
editors, so I don't know what alternatives there might be.

Essentially, what I did was to create a set of layers with the "multiply" 
blending mode, and then I made a Lighting Levels adjustment to increase the 
contrast.   That may sound complicated if you haven't used Photoshop or a 
similar program, but in practice it's very easy.

Translated out of Photoshop-speak: First I used Photoshop to imitate a set 
of transparencies stacked on top of each other.  Imagine a real life stack 
of several very faint photographic slides which are all of the same 
picture.  Each faint slide/photoshop layer in the stack helps to make the 
whole image darker.  Then second, I adjusted the light and dark areas of 
the image to make the lights lighter and the darks darker.


Here are the quick and dirty steps I used to bring out the script on that 
document:

STEP 1: MAKE A STACK OF LAYERS 

Copy the image to your computer (right click on the record and select "save 
image"), and open it in Photoshop.

Copy the background layer to make a second layer.  Change the blending mode 
on this second layer from "Normal" to "Multiply."  Copy this 
second/Multiply layer, and then copy it again (and again ) until the 
writing on the image looks dark enough to you.  There were three or four 
layers in the image I posted, IIRC.  If necessary, you can fine tune the 
top layer of the stack by changing its opacity by moving the "Opacity 
Slider".

STEP 2: COPY ALL THE LAYERS INTO A NEW TOP LAYER

Now, create a new blank layer on top of the layer stack.  With that layer 
active (i.e., click on it so it is highlighted), turn it into a "Copy 
Merged" layer by pressing CNTL+SHIFT+ALT+E all at the same time [for mac, 
use CMD instead of CNTRL].

The new top layer now a contains a copy of all the layers below it, merged 
together.

STEP 3: CHANGE THE LEVELS OF THE TOP LAYER

To improve the contrast between the background and the writing, change the 
"Levels" of this new top layer.  Click on the "Copy Merged" top layer to 
highlight it.  Then, go to Enhance--> Lighting --> Levels, and change the 
black point and the white point using the eyedropper or the slider.  I 
clicked the black eyedropper on a dark section of ink and the white 
eyedropper on the background paper  Finally, slide the middle/grey point 
(the slider in the middle of the graph) back and forth 'til the contrast 
between the ink and paper looks good, and click the OK button.

That's it.  Save the file and you're done.

NOTES:

On JPeg and TIFF files.  The file types of the records are jpegs.  Jpeg 
files don't support layers, so to save your layers and your editing work, 
you have to save the image as either a PSD (Photoshop's format) or a TIFF 
file.  To post the edited image to the forum, make copy of the TIFF/PSD 
file by using "Save As" and selecting jpeg as the file type.

Pros and cons of this quick and dirty process: Pro = The technique of 
making a stack of "multiply" layers is widely used in digital photo 
restoration, and there are good tutorials on the web that will walk you 
through the process better than I can.  Con = There are better practices 
for making levels adjustments (it's much better to use special "Ajustment 
Layers"), but using a separate copy-merged layer is an easy way to get 
started.  And finally, Curves, Channels and Colors are probably more 
powerful and useful tools overall, but I haven't got the hang of them yet.

That's it-- three easy, quick, and dirty steps to (hopefully) improved 
legibility.  I experimented with some other adjustments last night that 
might have (but probably didn't) help to sharpen the writing too.  I'm just 
starting to try to figure out what the best workflow for these record 
images might be, so if anyone has methods/suggestions I'd love to know 
more.  I especially would like to learn some methods of smoothing out the 
pixelation and sharpening them.  I know that the low resolution of the 
images limits what can be coaxed from them, but every little bit helps.  

I hope others will add to this thread with their image processing tips and 
tricks too.

best, 

Linda

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