Dear Gil, What potency did you use on your Brown Snails, and in what signs did you burn it. Also could you look through your records and give me a date that you burnt it. Regards James. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gil Robertson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 10:35 AM Subject: Re: Insect peppers
> Hi! Hugh, > I am very interested in your comment:- "Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture." > > I am working in a remote area with no one to drop by and help, so in things like making peppers, I am only able to learn that which I can from books and the likes of this list. > > I have had mixed results with peppers. Some are straight Steiner, some are traditional Homoeopathic potencies, some are potenised with a Rae, Pot to Pot instrument and in some cases I have made Rae Cards. My results has been mixed. Some have worked spectacularly, some not at all, while one for Brown Snail actually attracts them and they will eat anything I spray with it. I have been doing the full cremation and there is definitely no carbon present. SO that may be my mistake!! > > My most successful effort was against the Australian Plague Locust. I had a single specimen in Brandy and a couple of photos in a Fact sheet. I made the Rae card with the intent of having the Locust not eat and suffer the consequence. A great contrast to the brown Snail effort. > > Gil > > Hugh Lovel wrote: > > > Dear Essie, > > > > Would it be possible to get a sample of each of your peppers? A gram or two in a tiny ziploc bag would do. And can you determine what species(s) of slug you have? I take it there are several. I would like to send them off to England and have Malcolm Rae cards made. That way we can make up potencies as appropriate to each location. I gather you are using the straight pepper in your broadcaster without potentization. I guess we'll see how that works, but I have a feeling potencies are safer and will work better. > > > > Also, it is my belief that you do NOT want to burn everything to ash. You need some of the original carbon framework to have the pattern of that unique species. But, of course, you want to drive off ALL of the moisture and things related to moisture. > > > > As for fungus on strawberries, the old one--two punch involves tieing up the nitrates in the soil with an evening time drench of oak bark (505) and then spraying the foliage with the equisetum the next morning. The oak bark holds back the nitrates from the lime side so the plant is less salty and watery, while the horsetail draws in warmth from the silica side and hardens the plant. > > > > Best, > > Hugh > >
