Hi! Flolo, Outside the seasonal considerations:- If you can move a big enough ball of soil around the roots, you can move most trees anytime. On a small scale this can be that which two or four men can lift, to requiring mechanical aid. Trees with a few exception, have two types of roots, feeder roots which are largely horizontal and tend to be near the surface. The other are water seeking and are largely vertical. Most trees have a tap roots which branches, which is among the these if not the sole water seekers. One group is whitish and the other noticeably off white, but with out looking it up, I do not recall which is which.
The size of the root ball is relative to the drip line of the canopy of the tree and as deep or deeper. A couple of weeks ahead of the big day, hand dig a trench around the root ball and as deep as that to be moved. Cut any roots with sharp tools. If conditions are hot or the soil loose, support the root ball with hessian or old carpet tied in place. This will allow the side roots to get used to being cut and start forming new branches, while the tree is still supplied from below. I would also reduce the canopy by a quarter to a third, keeping in mind the shape of the tree. If the time is not available, just do it all on the day. If possible, also dig the new hole ahead, based on the size you will need to get the new tree in place and remove what ever you use to carry it. If you have heavy clay soil, a good dressing of gypsum in the hole at about two kilos to the square metre, can be watered in. In dry conditions, it is also good to get some water into the sub-soil. When the big day comes, start by sorting out the direction of North and mark the tree by tying a bit of ribbon, so the tree can be placed the same relative position in the new hole. This is most important, as the tree has a number of different areas that have functions relative to the ambient energies. If placed in another rotation, it will have to re-establish these and take longer to recover. Have to hand, some canvas, a small tarpaulin, large bag, heavy plastic, or what ever is being used to carrying it. If using a tractor or crane, have the slings etc. Have one person pull the tree to one side and support it, while another person, using a sharp hand saw, cuts through the root ball at the required depth. With the tree tipped to one side, fold half of the canvas etc, using lots of small folds, preferably zig zag like a fan, rather than rolling. The folded part is placed as far under the root ball as possible and the tree rocked back and held on the other side. The folds are then undone and you have you tree sitting on the canvas ready to lift. If the soil is very loose or has to be moved some distance, it is good to put two layers under and bring the upper one up and tie it tightly like the covering on a christmas pudding. Using as much man power as required, lift by the canvas and carry to the new site and place it in position, remembering to get it right way around. Check the level of the soil at the trunk, it should be close to the same level as the general ground level. If necessary, adjust. When happy all is well, reverse the earlier process and tip it one way and fold one half under, then tip the other way and remove. Back fill the hole, using the same soil as came out of the hole. If the soil is heavy clay, it is very important not to fill the hole with potting mix or light soil, as this will give a water trap and you will drown the roots, possibly killing the tree. A little good compost can be added in layers. Firm down as you fill, taking care to not leave air spaces. Water in. Happy tree moving, Gil [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I need to move a young pear tree. According to the calendars, > when is the best time to do it?
