Hi All Can some one explain the transplanting function of this "rescue remedy and the Bach Flower Remedy, Walnut" I'm familiar with rescue remedy, but have no information abut :Bach Flower Remedy, Walnut: Normally Walnut inhibit growth of other plants ??
Thanks Per Garp/NH ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 08:22 AM Subject: Transplanting, my best answers > Dear Will, et. al., > > Yes the planting of trees, bushes, vines, etc. in the same north-south > orientation is a key to good transplanting. Lorraine Cahill, who works with > me, has also showed me the effectiveness of using homeopathics in the water > used to "mud" the transplants in and give them a good reunion with the > earth. She uses both rescue remedy and the Bach Flower Remedy, Walnut. This > seems very successful even with transplanting such annuals as pepper, > tomato and basil. We run our beds north-south so we know without thinking > what that orientation is. Tiny seedlings no more than a foot tall tend to > put their roots out to either side of the tap root, rather like an > inverted, flat Christmas tree, so how do I determine from looking at the > plant which way to orient the roots so their original orientation is > preserved. Actually I haven't paid attention to that yet, so I will start > looking more closely at this. Possibly the roots allign north-south to > begin with. That would make their original orientation very easy to see and > transplanting must proceed apace. Formerly I transplanted my summer crops > without concern for this. It is true that some plants did poorly with no > clear reason why, and some plants did outstandingly well. Since we don't > hype them up on speed and steroids like the chemical growers who often seem > to have a near uniform field all going at the same rate, I ought to be able > to tell when I hit the nail on the head. > I feel sure there is something to this from my experience transplanting > trees and shrubs. > > Also there are nature spirits acting in union with plants. Call some of > them elementals if you will. These are Salamanders (fire) and Sylphs (air) > in the atmosphere, and Undines (water) and Gnomes (earth) in the soil. Plus > there are more complex beings that associate themselves with certain trees > or groups of trees, cultivars, crops, fields, special locations, homes and > even people such as artists, craftsmen, surgeons, you name it. These seem > to generally be beneficial, though that's not necessarily true. But the > hidden world of unseen energies is far and away more highly organized and > ordered than our science and culture currently acknowledges. We apprehend > only a small segment of the spectrum with our five senses, and we have to > learn to use our nervous system as the antenna it was designed to be if we > are to tune in to these beings and the organization of things which we > cannot see with our eyes but can only see with our mind's eye. Dowsing is > one route to doing this, of course. It's pretty easy to dowse. To fast, > pray and meditate requires a lot more discipline and dedication. And just > read a biography of Rasputin. I think you'll see that the rules for > attaining adept status are not necessarily what we may be told or may > believe. Asceticism isn't key, though the discipline that usually goes > along with it is. But what is discipline? Certainly it is not punishment or > denial. It is something far more profound. Actually asceticism commonly > involves judging others, rejection, pride, etc. all of which are hindrances. > > In any event to work with unseen forces so that their joyful, exuberant > assistance is enlisted in the transplanting of something so important as a > tree or a field of peppers or wheat might require paying a lot more > attention to what is really going on beyond the visible, in-the-moment > phenomena. One might start by dowsing, but some people just do this sort of > thing intuitively and subconsciously, so you might keep an eye open for > such folks and see if you can tune in to what they are doing. There's no > telling what you may find out. Green thumb? If you don't have one, don't > despair, you could develop one. > > As for the astrologically best dates, this is quite complex, though it was > a good question that has been avoided in the responses I've read. First you > need to consider what kind of a plant a pear is. It is a fruit, of course. > Often the trees are grafted, and we chould ask why? To get good fruit there > have been centuries of emphasis on the fruiting characteristics of the > plant while the roots were neglected. We can do a lot for a fruit tree if > we bring together the fruiting and root sides of the tree to a fuller > union. The best excample I've seen of doing this was in Mark Fulford's > nursery and orchard in Maine, where he sprayed compost tea with some kaolin > every two or three weeks. Another effort in this direction was Peter > Escher's biodynamic tree paste, which incorporated such things as lime and > clay along with horn manure and was painted on the trunks. There are better > formulas now than in Peter's time, but he pioneered the concept. > > In any event I'm pointing this out because we cannot think simply of > planting the tree in the most powerful fire sign in order to accentuate the > fruiting aspect of the tree. It won't do to set a crop of luscious pears > that rot or are unsound internally. However, since the pear is an above > ground crop you want to have the Moon in a fire constellation while it is > waxing. Second quarter is probably preferable. But you have to consider all > the other aspects to every planet, what the planet signifies, what > constellation it is in, is it ascending or descending, what the aspect is, > and so forth. With the silica pole and the swelling of the pears the outer > planets are important, but with the lime pole and the fecundity of the pear > you need to consider the inner planets. If you enlisted the aid of a good > astrologer like Glen Atkinson, he could pick you out some dates and times, > and you could go from there. It is a time consuming and technical endeavor > and I assume there would have to be recompense. Of course, using all the > other tips you've gotten and should apply will help raise the event from > moderately successful to outstanding and amazing. > > Best, > Hugh Lovel > > > > > > > > >I found the information from Gil to be very insightful and helpful. I > >especially like the idea of tagging North on the trees to insure the proper > >orientation. I wish I had done that with all of my transplants in the past. > > > >Best wishes, > > > >Will Winter, Tree Hugger > > Visit our website at: www.unionag.org >
