Dear Michael Roboz, Why would I use homeopathic horn clay followed by an evening yarrow (502) homeopathic soil spray and the next morning a foliar valerian (507) spray to control spider mites in tea plants?
Here is part of the explanation from another post. It explains why the horn clay but does not make the 502-507 tandem spray clear so read on with a little patience. Dears, Upon seeing aphids I would tend to think the sap is weak and watery. If you tasted this sap (as good a test, if not better, as a refractometer) it would be bland rather than rich and catch-at-your-throat. To some extent 501 WILL help, as it influences the strength with which the silica force comes up from within the earth , and that is what carries the lime and other strong minerals upward along with the nitrogen, which is what makes the plant lush. But the real key is the clay, which is the mediator between silica and lime and is what needs stimulating if the silica force is to carry lime up into the sap of the plant and to the growing tip. Thus the sure-fire remedy--I suspect almost every time--for aphids is horn clay. Apply it along with applications of horn manure and horn silica and you not only won't see any imbalances between lime and silica and your basil won't rush too bloody quickly to bloom, but you won't see any aphids. Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more. Clay mediates between silica and lime all right. It's the bridge that get the lime, phosphorus, potash, etc. into the plant. Here's a "Steiner said." On pages 32 and 33 of the Agriculture Course, Creeger/Gardener translation, Steiner is talking about the mineral forces and their tendency to crystalize and to become free from the Earth's influence and come under the influence of the "distant cosmic forces that are within the earth." He goes on to say, "Let me remark here that if we are dealing with a soil that does not carry these influences upward during the winter as it should, it is good to furnish the soil with some clay, the dosage of which I will indicate later. With the clay, we prepare the soil to conduct the crystalline force upward, for the plant growth above the Earth's surface." Horn clay will also cure spider mites, grasshoppers, and quite a few other insect infestations. I remember one Florida nursery under shadecloth where in the less lush area Pitosporum had absolutely no spider mites while the lusher areas were infested.There are a couple of species of predatory mites that eat spider mites, and I was using a small Radio Shack microscope watching this process. The predator mites were racing around the leaf, pinching the sloth-like, sucking spider mites as though they were Hansel's witch checking to see if he was ready to roast yet. In the area with the weaker sap they kept racing around, checking but not eating. In the stronger sap areas there simply weren't any spider mites. The predators had them completely in check. Taste a leaf in the weaker sap area? Mild and the juice could be swallowed pleasantly enough. Taste a leaf from the stronger sap part? Whew, the caustic limeness of it warned you not to swallow. The remedy for the area where the plants were too lush and the nitrogen uptake was well ahead of the lime was horn clay. Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel Okay. Why the 504 along with the horn clay? Simply that 504 is a circulatory remedy that carries the magnesium up to the leaf to play its role in the chloroplasts as the central ion in chlorophyll. This helps to round out the picture with the horn clay and the uptake of calcium. But there is even more to this picture. Yarrow is known to be one of the plants to first colonize new soils, as with the slopes of Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, etc. It works with the watery element especially well, and mycorrhyzae have a special affinity for it. It loves both the very fluid potash that is key to good stem formation, and the firery sulfur that draws the spiritual hydrogen, etc. into biological activity. But not only does this plant have the ability to stimulate the uptake of potash, it has a way of flushing away heavy metal toxicity and purging the soil of its contaminants. This explains one of the reasons it chows up on volcanic slopes tht may have any number of heavy metal problems from mercury to cadmium, berylium (a light metal) etc. Look at the way the leaves have more periphery per unit of surface area than any other plant. It works more strongly with the peripheral forces than any other remedy. So it can be of considerable support to the horn clay in the development of mycorrhyzae and the uptake of calcium, by ensuring the uptake of potash. So now we have the uptake of calcium, magnesium and potassium, the three most essential nutrient elements, all stimulated. The BD remedies, however, should be used in pairs for balance. Since my last workshop in Australia I've begun calling this tandem spraying. To use the various remedies like a painter's palette of colors it tends to be useful to use them in pairs. The common pairs are 502-507, 503-506 and 505-508. I guess I'll have to explain this later also, but this is how I've been pairing up the reagents in field broadcasters for about three years now and it is working beautifully. Anyway, I've found that if I need to spray 502, then I need also to spray the 507 the next morning to maintain balance between the earthly and the cosmic forces. Balance is so terribly inportant! What 507 does is stimulate the light ether and thus the phosphorus process. Where the chlorophyll draws energy into the leaf, the adenosine di-phosphate--tri-phosphate (ADP-ATP) bridge shunts this energy over into building carbon structures such as sugars in the leaf chemistry. In the brain and muscles just the opposite happens and the ATP-ADP bridge serves to conduct the energy back out of the sugars as (Steiner so poetically expressed it) "nitrogen drags oxygen through the carbon framework freeing it of its rigidity." But anyway, the 507 by itself would lead the phosphorus process on into its highest expression, blossoming. However in tandem with the 502, the phosphorus process is held back into the watery realm of the leaf, so no harm in terms of early, profuse blossoming comes from using it. Rather it balances the 502 and the 502 balances it. I really think the horn clay sprayed after a balancing application of horn manure/horn silica would be likely to cure the spider mites by itself. But in Anif's case I felt the little extra of the 504 (nettle) and the 502 (yarrow)-507 (valerian) tandem sprays would be the quintessential fix. Really I hope Anif, wherever he/she may be, has access to these Steiner remedies as I feel sure this will work if it can be implemented. In my own case I use radionics and a Malcolm Rae type instrument with Malcolm Rae BD cards where I can dial whatever homeopathic potency I want, impart it to my spray tank of living water, and spray. All I'm using is patterned water. No stirring and spraying, no fuss or muss. Fill up the tank, build the potency in it, and in 15 minutes or so I'm able to spray. Thanks for asking for the details. I had forgotten about this. Really I need to put this kind of knowledge down in a book so people can get these ideas handily. Best, Hugh >Dear Hugh, > > Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's >mite problem. Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized. Much >appreciated, Michael > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM >Subject: Re: Help > > >> Anif Dear, >> >> For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus >> stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an >> evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed >> the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The >> treatment might need to be repeated a few times. >> >> I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late >at >> night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your >> means of applying them? >> >> Best wishes, >> Hugh Lovel, >> Georgia, USA >> >> >> >> >Dear Friends, >> >I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or >> >suggestions on how to control >> >Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) >> >I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also >> >started started to appreciate >> >the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! >> >Thanking you, >> >With Kind Regards >> >Anil Dharmapalan >> > >> Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
