JIM CONRAD'S NATURALIST NEWSLETTER
Issued from Hacienda Komchén de Los Pájaros
just outside Dzemul, Yucatán, Mexico
February 6, 2005

*****

THE BUS TO TELCHAC PUERTO
Monday was the last day here for Karen from Mississippi
so it was a good day for us to take the 9:30 AM bus to
Telchac Puerto, about twenty minutes northeast of here,
on the coast.

The bus was an old rattletrap, and therefore much more
fun than the newer ones. Hot air gushed into open
windows as we lumbered down the narrow highway edged
with low thornforest and big henequen plantations. The
bus stopped for everyone, anyplace, and when a
campesino entered taking off his sombrero, scratching
his head and smiling through his deep wrinkles, he
found his friends and neighbors among the passengers.

On these old buses there's plenty of room for the
driver, and he's free to decorate his domain as he
wishes. In the very center of the ample windshield
hovered a large image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, with
love and hope radiating from the entire length of her
body like silvery feathers. Decals were stuck all over
-- more Virgin of Guadalupes, Mexican flags and
pennants, and soccer emblems. The rear-view mirror was
framed in pink fuzz, and small pompom-like affairs of
various colors dangled from the beat-up fan over the
driver's left shoulder. The driver himself smelled as
mightily of aftershave as the old bus did of
disinfectant.

At midday Telchac Puerto was sunburned, windblown,
dusty, somnolent and friendly. The 2002 hurricane,
Isador, swept away most of the beach so that now the
remains of house foundations extended clear to the
water's edge. All buildings previously right on the
beach were severely damaged, or obliterated. Lots of
once-fancy structures a little more inland had been
abandoned.

It's something to stand at the water's edge imagining
what it must have been like exactly right there during
the hurricane's peak. And you can't keep from
reflecting on how very deceptive are those long periods
of any kind of peace which by nature are very rarely,
very briefly but inevitably interrupted by outbreaks of
outrageous violence.

more at
http://www.backyardnature.net/n/05/050206.htm

*****

Best wishes to all Newsletter subscribers,

Jim

All back issues of this Newsletter are archived at
www.backyardnature.net/n/




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