This is some good stuff although I've not tried it out myself as of yet.
***
Get Wired Performance From Your Wi-Fi Network

Source: Windows Secrets

By Becky Waring
Although the Wi-Fi arms race isn't going to let up any time soon, wireless can 
never be as fast and reliable as wires. So why 

fight it? Get the best of both worlds with a hybrid Wi-Fi and powerline 
network, perfect for streaming high-def video.


Why Wi-Fi doesn't cut it for streaming video

Recently I was asked to redesign a home network for a client who couldn't get 
reliable wireless Netflix streaming to his home 

theater. He was also frustrated by the feeble throughput in much of his house, 
despite investing in four (count 'em, four) 

802.11n Wi-Fi routers.

Although his was an extreme case, with a 5,000-square-foot house spread over 
two wings and a central connector, his network 

challenges were typical of those upgrading from older Wi-Fi routers: how to get 
reliable and dropout-free throughput for 

media streaming as well as faster overall performance for high-bandwidth tasks 
such as network backup and storage.

You might think dropping U.S. $150 on the latest 300Mbps 802.11n router should 
do the trick, but in many cases even the 

fastest Wi-Fi routers can't deliver smooth streaming video where it's needed, 
and network backups might take hours or even 

days to complete.

Wireless throughput drops rapidly with distance from the router and is also 
subject to interference from a myriad of sources 

- from cordless phones and microwaves to neighboring Wi-Fi nets. Even momentary 
glitches in a video stream can be enough to 

ruin the movie-watching experience.

My client's Wi-Fi issues were compounded by the fact that his house is made of 
bricks, which along with stone, concrete, 

water tanks and pipes, stucco siding, and ceramic tile are very effective 
wireless-signal eaters. (Stucco siding has chicken 

wire inside that creates a Faraday-cage effect, blocking signals going in or 
out.)

His existing network was a mesh of four routers running in Wireless 
Distribution System (WDS) mode with three remote routers 

acting as wireless repeaters, receiving signals from the others within range 
and rebroadcasting them.

This system was adequate for ordinary Web surfing and e-mail, but it failed 
entirely when it came to streaming video to the 

TVs. By the time the Wi-Fi signal had hopped access points to the farthest 
corners of the house, it was degraded to 

practically nothing. The only place he could get a solid video stream was in 
the same room as the main router connected to 

his cable modem.

Today, with an added investment of about $300, he's got robust video and data 
everywhere in the house, and I have a happy 

client. Read on to find out how we brought wired performance to his Wi-Fi 
network.


The secret sauce: powerline network adapters

The secret to success? I ditched the wireless mesh design and connected each of 
the routers to the network with four new 

500Mbps powerline adapters from Netgear.

By using powerline gear, which turns home electrical wiring into an Ethernet 
network, we turned a sketchy wireless network 

backbone into a rock-solid wired one without having to run new Ethernet cabling 
all over the house.

Although older 75- and 200Mbps powerline gear has been around for years, it has 
never really broken through to the mainstream 

due to both cost (about $75 per adapter, far more than Wi-Fi adapters) and the 
relatively slow throughput compared to 

Ethernet cabling.

The new 500Mbps standard finally breaks the elusive "Ethernet-equivalent" speed 
barrier, with real-world transfer rates of 

70-80Mbps in one direction and more than 100Mbps in both directions at once, 
thanks to built-in gigabit Ethernet ports.

Perhaps more to the point, 500Mbps powerline gear can comfortably deliver 
40Mbps streaming 1080p video (as from a ripped 

Blu-ray disc), the current gold standard. And it doesn't suffer the vagaries of 
wireless reception.

Thus far, only Netgear and TRENDnet are shipping 500Mbps adapters, with Netgear 
being the best performing, according to a 

SmallNetBuilder review. But expect many more products soon from other powerline 
vendors such as D-Link and Cisco Linksys.

The Netgear Powerline AV 500 Adapter Kit XAVB5001 we used (info page, about 
$140 retail) consists of two adapters. One plugs 

into your main router via Ethernet as well as into a wall power outlet, and the 
other plugs into a power outlet in the remote 

location where you'd like to deliver an Ethernet port. 

The kit is plug-and-play - no setup is required. You can also buy adapters 
individually. You can use up to a total of 16 

adapters around the house, although you probably need them only in strategic 
locations such as your home theater or basement 

office.

In my client's case, I simply connected one powerline adapter to each of the 
four routers that covered the two wings of his 

house, then changed the wireless setup in the three remote routers so that each 
was creating its own Wi-Fi net rather than 

using WDS. (Each was already set in bridge mode, which turns routers into 
access points only - you can have only one true 

router per network.)

By using precisely the same SSID (Wi-Fi network name), password, and encryption 
type (use WPA2-PSK with AES if you can - it's 

the most secure) in each router/access point, I created a roaming Wi-Fi net 
where mobile clients such as laptops and 

smartphones see only one network. They simply connect to the access point with 
the strongest signal.

It's easiest to create a seamless roaming network with identical routers 
because manufacturers have varying encryption and 

channel-selection options that may not quite match up. However, you should be 
able to accomplish the same thing I did with 

most modern routers. I recommend the Cisco Linksys E4200 or E3200, which are 
the current performance and feature leaders in 

their price classes.

Both have simultaneous dual-band 2.4 and 5GHz radios, which give you even more 
network design flexibility. (The 5GHz band is 

typically much less noisy and crowded.) They also have gigabit Ethernet 
switches, QOS (quality of service) support for 

prioritizing streaming media, and USB ports for shared storage drives. At a 
$160 list price, the E3200 (info page) is 

slightly less expensive yet full-featured enough for most users.

The top-of-the-line E4200 (info page; $180) adds a UPnP media serving 
capabilities for attached storage (a handy feature that 

can stream media directly to many set-top boxes) and up to 450Mbps throughput 
on the 5GHz band (assuming you have a matching 

450Mbps-capable client card).


Mixed Wi-Fi/powerline network-design strategies

Although most houses don't need four Wi-Fi access points to get full coverage, 
using powerline gear gives you the freedom to 

put your routers/access points in the places they do the most good. You can 
place them pretty much anywhere you have a power 

outlet.

In my client's case, we located one of the access points directly behind his 
home theater. This way, I was able to take 

advantage of the 4-port Ethernet switch in the back of the router to connect 
his Blu-ray player, Apple TV, and Wii. This 

strategy saved the cost of a wireless adapter for the Blu-ray player; it also 
gave all his streaming devices direct wired 

connections - and glitch-free video.

A huge side benefit is that no streaming video or Internet gaming traffic is 
competing for scarce Wi-Fi bandwidth because it 

never leaves the wired network.

I could also have attached a standard 5- or 8-port Ethernet switch to the 
powerline adapter to achieve the same result. In 

fact, Netgear has announced a 500Mbps home-theater powerline kit with a 
four-port switch built into one of the adapters. It 

should be shipping any day now.

Note that any devices plugged into one powerline adapter need to share the 
bandwidth through that port, so you probably 

wouldn't want to put multiple high-bandwidth devices such as NAS drives on one 
adapter. In the case of a home theater, only 

one set-top box should be actively streaming at a time.

A powerline adapter is also a great way to network a printer. Even so-called 
wireless printers usually have an Ethernet port, 

too; so if you can't get a good wireless printing connection in your desired 
location, try powerline.

Finally, conserve your powerline bandwidth by placing network backup drives in 
the location where your computers reside most 

of the time. For example, if you spend most of your time in the family room, 
connect your backup drive or NAS to an access 

point in that room. Because they are both connected to the same access point, 
data will flow straight from computer to NAS, 

without ever going back down the powerline connection to the main router. As a 
bonus, you'll have a strong Wi-Fi connection 

in the room where you need it most.


Using your Powerline gear successfully

Although powerline gear is plug-and-play, that doesn't mean it's infallible. 
Because it's dependent on your home electrical 

system, line noise from hair dryers, cell phone chargers, and the cycling of 
microwaves and refrigerators (as well as certain 

AFCI breakers) can all affect performance.

In addition, if you have very old wiring (I still have a bunch of knob-and-tube 
wires in my 100-year-old house) or a mixture 

of wiring and breaker panels, you could have problems.

So always buy powerline gear from a vendor with a good return policy, and test 
it immediately after you get it to be sure it 

works in your particular environment.

Fortunately, the Netgear kits are very easy to test. When you plug them in, the 
middle powerline light glows green, amber, or 

red. Green signifies a nominal link rate greater than 80Mbps, amber a link rate 
between 50-80 Mbps, and red a rate below 

50Mbps. You can keep trying outlets until you find the best ones.

In my tests, amber was usable for light Web surfing, printing, and e-mail but 
not for video or heavy file transfers. Red was 

simply not satisfactory. On the other hand, green was great - it felt like 
regular Ethernet.

In my client's house, we ended up with three green locations and one amber. But 
in one room, the first three outlets we 

tested were red before we got a green signal. Luckily, the room in which we 
couldn't do better than amber was not a location 

for which we needed high throughput.

If you get a lot of amber results, make sure that you are not near sources of 
noise. Chargers, power supplies, or other 

devices plugged into nearby outlets can be culprits. If these are interferences 
for you, move them as far away as possible, 

or use a filter. Netgear also makes powerline adapters with a filtered outlet 
for problem devices (info page).

Another thing to remember is that powerline adapters need to be plugged 
directly into the wall, never into a surge 

suppressor, which wreaks havoc on the powerline signals.

Also, if you already have older powerline gear, don't mix it up. While 500Mbps 
powerline gear is backwardly compatible with 

the 200Mbps standard, you'll get greatly reduced performance. With powerline, 
it's best to stick with one vendor and one 

speed to avoid the inevitable finger-pointing when things go wrong.

Finally, if you live in an apartment building or other location where you may 
share electrical circuits with someone else, 

use the buttons on the side of the Netgear adapters to change the encryption 
key from the default so that no one can snoop on 

your powerline network. Press the encryption buttons on your adapters within 
two minutes of one another, and they will pair 

up.

Web site
http://windowssecrets.com/comp/110414/

***
David Ferrin
Always be yourself because the people that matter don't mind, and the ones that 
mind don't matter.
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