Hi Geoff It is my pleasure to research many subjects and post to the list. I get a lot of information myself from these encounters and Dave is doing a great job sorting them out and putting them in a readable format. I know where I can find information on a vacuum system for a small workshop and I will post as soon as I can. Thanks for your kind words I spend many hours looking for interesting information then editing out to us useless graphics and formatting it in a readable way. Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geoff Eden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 6:05 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review
> Rae, this is right on the money for me, as it is drill replacement time. > My seers half-inch drill is 35 years old, and my skill 3/8 impact drill is > 25 years old. They both still work, but are not nearly as ergonomic or as > full-featured as the drills you described here. > > The router looks very good, and is very tempting, but I already have two > quarter-inch routers that only get occasional use. > > If you have a moment, could you share with us your knowledge of small shop > built in vacuum systems. I have a fairly good Sears shop Vac, but it is a > nuisance to drag it around and hook it up. It is also not of high enough > capacity to handle my table saw. > > Many thanks for all of the great reference material. > > Geoff > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Boyce, Ray > To: [email protected] > Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 12:53 AM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review > > > Hi > Ryobi "Live Tool" Indicator > Power Tool Range > Reviews > By Dean Bielanowski > > Ryobi tools have been on the market for many years, and they offer the > general home DIY enthusiast, woodworker, metalworker or crafter a range of > tools > at very competitive prices. From time to time, Ryobi have also released > specialist Professional tools designed to meet the demands of everyday > use. Their > latest range of power tools is not a lot different from others in their > range, except for an improvement in safety features, namely the inclusion > of new > "Live Tool" indicators which are designed to further help prevent accident > or injury from accidental startup or other electrical hazards. > > The Live Tool Indicator > I'm not going to go into detail about the indicator, simply because their > is not a lot of detail to go into. Each of the tools reviewed below > features a > "Live Tool" Indicator. This is simply a blue LED light that illuminates > when the tool is connected to a live electrical circuit. It is a visual > indicator > to alert the user that the tool is plugged in and power is available to > begin work. While it won't totally prevent accidents from happening, it is > a very > welcome addition to the tools as it provides another level of safety via > the visual LED alert light so users know whether the tool is "live" or > not. This > is also handy when changing out cutting bits with the tools, such as > grinding discs, router bits or drill bits. The last thing you want is to > accidentally > hit the trigger while you have your hands clenched onto a grinding disc > fitting it to the tool, as an example. It may sound silly, but it DOES > happen! > The same goes with changing out router bits and drill bits (although drill > bits are the least damaging of the three). Regardless, being able to > quickly > identify whether the tool is plugged into a live circuit is helpful in > preventing accidents and injury, and any safety feature added to a tool is > a welcome > addition in my opinion. In some outdoor situations involving bright > sunlight, it can at times be difficult to see the "LiveTool" light without > having to > shield the light with your hands to provide a shadow. In shady areas > outdoors or under artificial light however, like in a workshop or indoors, > the LiveTool > indicator is much easier to see. > > So with that part taken care of, let's take a look at all the new tools in > the range featuring the new "Live Tool" Indicators: > > Ryobi EID550RE and EID750REN Impact Drills > I will review these two models together as, for the most part, the > operational features and design are very similar. Some of the > specifications are different, > and I will make note of these. > > Firstly, the EID550RE is not as powerful as the EID750REN drill. The > EID550RE features a 550W input. You probably do not want to go any lower > than this > in terms of power. 550 watts should be enough power for general drilling > operations around the home, and is suited to the home handyman, or > handywoman > of course. For woodworking, it provides enough power for most boring > needs. In use I found it handled drilling in wood with virtually no > problems. Having > sharp drill bits makes it slice through wood easily. When attempting to > drill metal, again, it handled the task reasonably well with sharp, > quality metal > drilling bits, but with blunter bits you could hear the motor struggling > at times. This is not unexpected as drilling metal requires sharp bits and > using > blunt bits on any drill would put some strain on the motor. And of course, > blunt bits and metal just don't really work together. In masonry drilling, > the > drill handled well for smaller diameter holes, but was put under a bit of > strain with wider holes. Ultimately, the drill did the job without any > noticeable > damage, and to be fair, it performed the tasks well using bits up to the > sizes specified in the manual, so it did perform as per specs. The > EID750REN drill > features a more powerful 750 watt input and that extra 200 watts does make > a difference. It is handy to have that little extra in the power > department > to make drilling quicker and easier with a little less strain on the > motor. I used both drills for a variety of home and project tasks, > including a large > re-roofing project of a patio, fixing down a small shed, and drilling > numerous pilot holes for a number of woodworking projects. > > Left: The EID550RE kit. > Middle: Variable speed dial, trigger and forward/reverse switch. > Right: EID550RE ready to go! > > Left: The "LiveTool" indicator on the EID750REN > Middle: Both drills have a similar shape and design. > Right: Onboard bit storage built into the handle... nice! > > In terms of features, these drills conform to your standard corded drill > design. You have a trigger on the handle with an adjustable speed wheel > (0 - 2,700 > rpm on the EID550RE and 0 - 2,800 rpm on the EID750REN) to adjust > rotational speed for the specified task - drilling wood usually requires > faster speeds, > metal lower speeds. There is also a trigger lock button that allows you to > lock the trigger on for extended drilling tasks (usually masonry or metal > drilling). > Each drill has a forward/reverse rotation switch conveniently located just > above the trigger for ease of operation. Up top, there is the sliding > switch > to change between standard drilling and impact drilling mode (for > masonry). Both drills can around deliver around 44,000 blows per minute > max. Both models > also feature a 360 degree rotate-able auxiliary handle with removable > depth of drive adjustment rod. Interestingly, on the 750 model, the > auxiliary handle > also doubles as a drill bit storage compartment. Unscrewing the bottom cap > of the handle reveals a small drill bit holder where 5 or so drill bits > can > be conveniently stored. This is very handy when using the drill to mount > common objects around the home requiring smaller drill bits. Both drills > feature > comfortable rubber overmolds on the handle and rear of the drills. > > The drill chucks are also slightly different between the two models. The > 550 uses what I call a two-piece chuck. I.e. you hold the inner "ring" of > the chuck > firm while you move the outer part of the chuck to loosen or tighten the > chuck jaws around the drill bit. The 750 model has a spindle lock button > on the > underside of the drill body to lock the spindle from rotating while you > loosen or tighten the chuck. It's personal preference really as to whether > you > like one or the other. I prefer the spindle lock version, but that's just > me. The only other noticeable difference is that the 750 model features a > bubble > level at the rear of the motor housing. This comes in handy when you want > or need to drill a level hole, or perhaps to drill an angled hole too. The > 550 > lacks this feature. > > Both tools ship in plastic molded cases, come with printed instruction > manuals and some starter bits to get you going. The 550 model provides 5 > twist drill > bits while the 750 model is supplied with 3 twist drill bits, 5 masonry > bits and 2 double-ended screwdriving bits. The supplied bits are in fact > quite > sharp, but they did seem to dull a bit faster than good quality high speed > steel bits. Still, they are ok to get you going. > > As mentioned, we tested both drills in a variety of situations and gave > each a fairly good workout. I'd recommend to grab the larger 750 watt > version of > the two if you had to make a choice between them. The extra power comes in > handy with masonry and metal drilling. If you only needed a drill for > woodworking, > the smaller 550w model would probably be ok, plus it's a little lighter > and a little smaller in physical size (good for overhead work). Note that > these > drills are primarily designed for home use. They probably won't outlast a > good industrial duty drill, but their price tags are far less also - just > AUD$49 > for the 500 watt model and AUD$69 for the 750 watt model. I've had several > Ryobi corded drills before and had good luck with them. I'd expect the > same > good service from these models too. As long as you look after them and > don't work them beyond their capacity, they should work for you. They are > backed > up by a 2-year warranty too, so you have that extra piece of mind, plus a > 30-day satisfaction guarantee if the drill doesn't live up to your > expectations. > In a nutshell, these drills seem fine for general purpose use around the > home and in the woodworking shop and are reasonably good, basic corded > drills, > with the new Live Tool Indicator feature to boot. > > Ryobi "LiveTool" Grinders > Ryobi offer several (six to date) grinders in the LiveTool range > encompassing various disc sizes and motor ratings. We tested four from the > range, the models > tested as follows: > List of 4 items > * EAG95100 - 100mm 900watt Angle Grinder (AUD$49) > * EAG75115C - 115mm 750watt Angle Grinder (AUD$69) > * EAG8012C - 125mm 800watt Angle Grinder (AUD$79) > * EAG1518GSP - 180mm 1500watt Angle Grinder/Sander/Polisher (AUD$109) > list end > > The two other models not tested include a 125mm 850watt Grinder/Sander kit > and a larger 230mm 2200watt angle grinder. > The range offers a tool to suit most regular grinding tasks, and user's > budgets. Each tool features the "LiveTool" indicator of course, as well as > a very > useful tool-free adjustable blade/disc guard... > > Left: The EAG95100 Grinder. > Middle: Disc change tool has a neat housing right inside the auxiliary > handle. > Right: Tool-less guard clamp allows rapid moving of guard to protect user. > > Adjustable Blade Guard > Most angle grinders are generally the same in terms of design and > function. Many grinders require a tool of some type to be able to adjust > the guard that > protects the user from sparks and debris. This new range of grinders from > Ryobi incorporate a handy tool-less guard movement system. By adding a > clamp > (like a cam-clamp) to the collar of the guard that fits around the shaft > body of the grinder, the user can quickly release the clamp, move the > guard to > the required position for best protection and the re-apply the clamp to > lock the guard in place in its new position. In use this works very well, > and surely > beats having to pull out a screwdriver to loosen a guard screw all the > time. One downside to the clamp system I noticed during use was that it > can sometimes > get in the way of making a full depth cut. It protrudes a little from the > end of the grinder and in situations where you might need to make a full > depth > cut (say when cutting thick metal or tube or when cutting masonry) you > lose a little bit of depth capacity because of the clamp. You can work > around it > however and use the side where the clamp isn't obstructing, or use the > grinder in a position where it will not be a problem. I really only found > it an > issue when I was trying to make full depth cuts into masonry with a > diamond blade fitted. It didn't really present a problem in any other > tasks personally. > I think it's a small sacrifice to make on those rare occasions to save the > time you save by being able to move the guard easily most times you use > the > tool. > > Tool Holder > Another neat feature of these grinders is the inbuilt tool storage. The > handles on these models will hold the blade changing tool so it's > difficult to lose > or leave behind. It's always right there ready to go when you need it. It > simply slides in and out of the body of the handle. As long as you > remember to > put it straight back in the handle after using it, it's almost impossible > to misplace. It's a simple and convenient way of storing the blade > changing tool. > Thumbs up here. > > Left: Each grinder comes in its own plastic molded case with a grinding > wheel to get you started. > Right: The EAG8012C 125mm model with standard fare power button. Note the > LiveTool indicator (not illuminated). > > Other common features to all grinders > As you would expect, all of the grinders feature multiple handle position > holes. The 100mm and 125mm grinders mentioned above allow you to screw the > handle > either to the left or the right of the forward metal casing. The 115mm and > 180mm grinders have a third handle position option on top of the front > casing > as well, adding more flexibility and comfort options to the user. > > Each grinder features a spindle lock button that is pressed to lock the > spindle to allow blade/disc changes to be made safely and easily. Pretty > much standard > fare on angle grinder designs. Nothing special here. > > Each grinder also comes with its own "Ryobi" branded grinding disc of a > size to suit each particular unit. Finding replacement discs shouldn't > pose to much > of a problem as each tool uses pretty standard sized bores for the discs > or diamond blades you can mount onto it. I have outlined the specs for > each tool > in the table below. > > All grinders come supplied with a molded plastic carry case, and black and > white printed user manuals. > > Grinder Specifications: > > Table with 5 columns and 7 rows > > EAG95100 > EAG75115C > EAG8012C > EAG1518GSP > Grinding Wheel > 100mm (4") > 115mm (4.5") > 125mm (5") > 180mm (7") > Input > 900w > 750w > 800w > 1500w > Spindle Thread > M10 x 1.5 > M14 x 2 > M14 x 2 > M14 x 2 > No Load Speed > 11,000 > 11,000 > 11,000 > 1500 - 6500 > Disc Bore Size > 16mm > 22.2mm > 22.2mm > 22.2mm > Net Weight > 2.34kg > 2.8kg > 2.4kg > 3.6kg > table end > > Significant Differences > You can easily spot the differences in specifications from the table > listed above, but there are other design features between the models that > the table > doesn't outline. Firstly, the 100mm and 125mm grinders are similarly > designed with regards to the body shape and power switch. They feature a > traditional > cylindrical grinder body with a basic push slide switch to turn them on, > and a rear release catch (at the back end of the switch) which is pushed > to release > the switch and turn the grinder off. On the other hand, the 115mm and > 180mm grinders feature a slimmer "handle style" grip at the back end of > the grinder. > I find this type of design much more ergonomic and easier to use, plus > they feature Ryobi's GripZone rubber overmolds for better grip and > control. > > Left: The EAG75115C 115mm Angle Grinder. > Right: This model features a useful rotating back handle to ensure comfort > at any grinding angle. > > What is perhaps most important on these two grinders is that the handle > portion of the grinders body can actually be rotated left or right 90 > degrees in > comparison to the forward body casing. This means you can twist the handle > grip (and the power switch) around to a more comfortable user position > depending > on the angle the grinder is being used. This allows a greater deal of > comfort and less user fatigue. This is not a new feature to grinders, > others in the > past have offered this handy feature, but it is good to see these two > particular grinders are loaded up with it. A release button is pushed to > allow you > to rotate the handle body either way, or back to "center again" and the > positions positively click into place. There are power triggers on these > two grinders, > coupled with a power-on lock button, as opposed to the standard slide > switches on the previous two models mentioned above. Which you prefer is > personal > preference really. > > EAG1518GSP > The largest, most powerful, and heaviest of the grinders tested was the > EAG1518GSP. It deserves a separate mention as it not only offers your > standard grinding/cutting > options, but also comes with a woolen bonnet for polishing applications in > the kit. Because of the numerous uses this tool offers, it also comes with > a > feature none of the other three tools offer - variable speed. The variable > speed control dial is located on the top of the handle. Six speed settings > are > offered, delivering from 1500 - 6500 RPM rotational speed. For polishing > applications, speeds 1 to 3 are used. For sanding, speeds 3 to 5 are most > suitable, > and for grinding or cutting, speed 6 is the ideal setting. This is a very > useful tool and has enough power to handle even more heavy duty grinding > tasks. > Because of the larger disc size, it allows much faster cutting of metal > materials too. The downside is that it is much larger physically than a > 100mm grinder, > and about 50% heavier too. > > Left: The EAG1518GSP 180mm model. > Middle: Note the extra handle position on top of the main body. > Right: Adjustable speeds for use as a polisher, sander, or grinder. > > Left: The 180mm grinder also features the rotating handle. > Right: A grinding disc and polishing pad/bonnet are included as standard. > > Grinder Performance > In terms of performance, which grinder is best suited to the task depends > on the task itself. Obviously, for heavy duty metal grinding of thicker > materials, > the 180mm grinder is best suited. For small scale cutting/grinding work, > or where tight space is encountered or for overhead work, the smaller > 100mm or > 115mm grinders may be more suitable. In terms of power, each offers more > than enough for your average grinding needs. I have an el-cheapo "no-name" > 500w > grinder I have owned for about two years now and even though you can bog > it down with deliberate pressure, such pressure on a workpiece is not even > needed > for efficient cutting and grinding. You let the blade or disc do the work > without forcing the tool into the cut. While 500w is manageable for most > tasks, > it's always good to have that little extra under the bonnet. 800w or 900w > is certainly adequate for your average needs. Naturally, if you are using > a grinder > every day in heavy trade conditions, you might want something larger or > more powerful. In terms of durability, I cannot offer comment at this > stage, given > that I have only used the tools for about 10 weeks. Hopefully in 12 months > time I will re-visit and update this review with further comments on this > aspect. > However, I can say that there have been no problems or faults so far > within the test period to mention. In fact, I seem to have very few > problem with many > power tools I use and own. The bottom line is to keep them properly > maintained and to use them within their limits specification wise to > ensure a good > working life. Sure, you get the odd lemon here or there, but thankfully I > have been able to avoid this in most instances with power tools in the > past. > Treat them well, and they will treat you well! > > Overall > Overall, I'm quite happy with the design and performance of these > grinders. They certainly function to a level that is reasonable with > regard to their specifications. > While their design and feature elements have been seen before in other > grinders, the inclusion of some of them in this range is commendable given > the price > range and target market for these items. I used the tools to grind metal, > cut metal and cut masonry and in each application there was a successful > result. > The grinder is a relatively simple tool to use in principle, and not > overly complicated, but it's definitely a handy one to have around the > home or workshop. > Naturally, the big 180mm grinder was my favorite, mostly because it has > the largest range of features and the ability to perform other tasks > (sanding/polishing) > right out of the box with no need to buy any other attachments. > > Ryobi "LiveTool" Jigsaws > As of time of writing, there are a total of 3 jigsaws in the Ryobi range > featuring the "LiveTool" indicator. All three jigsaws feature a very > similar D-handle > type design, but they each have their own slight differences. > > Models: > List of 3 items > * EJS500LL 500watt > * EJS500QK 500watt > * EJS700QK 650watt > list end > > Table with 4 columns and 8 rows > > EJS500LL > EJS500QK > EJS700QK > Power > 500W > 500W > 650W > Stroke Per Min > 0 - 2,600 > 0 - 2,600 > 600 - 2,600 > Stroke Length > 16mm > 16mm > 20mm > Wood (cut capacity) > 75mm > 75mm > 75mm > Steel (cut capacity) > 6mm > 6mm > 8mm > Blade Change > Requires Hex Tool > Tool-less > Tool-less > Pendulum Settings > 3 > 3 > 4 > table end > > EJS500LL > To begin with, the EJS500LL is the most basic of the three tested. It > features a 500 watt motor and is the only one of the three not to come > supplied with > its own molded carry case. It comes in a box with a standard saw fence, > manual and wood cutting blade. As with most cutting accessory inclusions, > the blade > is of average quality. Sharp yes, but not premium quality you can buy off > the shelf at the local hardware store. It is adequate to get you going > making > wood cuts however. The jigsaw accepts Bosch-style shank blades. Pretty > common and easy to find replacements. If you are in Australia, or can buy > P&N brand > jigsaw blades locally, I suggest you grab some. They are excellent quality > blades and will fit all three jigsaws reviewed here. Blade changes on this > model > jigsaw requires a hex wrench, and one is included in the kit bag along > with the blade and manual. > > Left: The EJS500LL model. The lowest-priced saw in the range. > Middle: Standard power controls. Note the illuminated "LiveTool" indicator > on the handle. > Right: A tool is required for blade changes on this model. > > The EJS500LL provides a pendulum cutting action with three stage settings. > Depending on the type of material and how aggressive you wish to cut will > depend > on which setting you choose. There are many variables to consider which I > wont go into, but test cutting on a scrap piece of material first will > help choose > the best setting for the material and blade. The pendulum action setting > switch is located on the lateral edge of the tool. Down below is a fairly > standard > metal base, which can pivot left or right to make bevel cuts with > pre-notched settings at 15, 30 and 45 degrees either way. There is also a > handy anti-splintering > notch cut into the base to help prevent chipout common with jigsaw cuts. > In use it works ok, but controlling chipout when using a jigsaw is tough > at the > best of times without using a zero-clearance sub-base, or something to > similar effect. You will also notice the dust-extraction attachment in the > photos. > This locks into place between the saw base and the main tool housing and > the outlet actually extends right under close to the blade, however, it > tapers > down to quite a small opening. At the connection end, the attachment > measures 1.5 inches (outside diameter). I hooked my vac up to this port > and it managed > to remove most of the finer material expelled during a cut. My opinion is > that the opening near the blade is just a little too small to be really > effective. > There does seem to be clearance there to have made it a little wider for > more efficient extraction. On the flip-side, reading the manual gives the > impression > that this accessory might be used to blow air toward the blade (i.e. with > your vacuum in reverse cycle mode) to blow chips and debris away from the > cutting > blade allowing a better line of sight? So, I tried it, and it works very > well. However, I would only recommend this when being used outdoors as the > blowing > action sends lots of dust airborne and, in a closed area, that can present > an unnecessary exposure issue. Regardless, this design seems much better > in > principle than other dust extraction methods employed on other jigsaws > where the dust is supposed to route through the jigsaw body and out the > back, but > hardly any dust ever seems to take that path! > > Up top you have "GripZone" rubber overmold grips for comfort and control, > plus a standard trigger-type switch with a lock-on button for continuous > power. > On the trigger itself is a speed control dial to allow you to adjust speed > depending on material being cut. For softer material or softwoods, a > faster > setting is usually preferred, whereas harder material or metal might > require a slower speed. For all intensive purposes, this model is an > entry-level jigsaw, > designed for the odd jigsawing tasks you may have around the home or in > the workshop, and it is priced accordingly at just AUD$49. > > EJS500QK > The 500QK model is pretty much exactly the same as the 500LL model bar one > difference. The 500QK offers a tool-less blade change mechanism. The hex > key > screw on the 500LL model is replaced with a tool-less lever mechanism, > which when lifted up, allows the user to insert or remove a blade. When > inserting > a blade the blade is held in place after the Quick Release Lever is > lowered (it springs back down). Both the 500LL and 500QK models are > otherwise identical > in shape, design and specification as far as I can tell. The 500QK model > is priced at AUD$69. So the tool-less blade change function will cost you > an extra > $20 for the privilege. Is it worth that much? Well, if you plan to use > this tool a fair bit, then I would say yes. It's so much quicker to change > a blade > with this mechanism rather than undoing and re-tightening a hex screw with > each blade change. The 500QK model is, in my opinion, fairly priced as an > entry > level jigsaw with a handy tool-less blade change feature. > > Left: The EJS500QK. Basically identical to the 500LL except for the > tool-less blade change. > Right: Look mum, no tools needed! > > EJS700QK > Spend a further $20 and for the total sum of AUD$89, the EJS700QK jigsaw > can be yours. Unlike the previous two models reviewed, this model offers > several > different features, and better specifications. To start with, it offers a > more powerful 650W motor. This is enough grunt for woodworking tasks, and > mild > steel cutting tasks as well (up to 8mm thickness in steel/metal). The > extra power will come in handy in the harder woods or if you plan on > cutting thicker > materials of 2 inches or more, otherwise 500W seems to complete the task > well enough with good quality blades. However. it is always handy to have > that > little extra if and when you need it! A larger 20mm stroke length, as > opposed to 16mm on the other two models improves the spec list. Another > interesting > feature on this model that is not often found on other jigsaws are the > twin LED worklights installed at the front of the machine just above the > blade cutting > area. In shady areas or dim working conditions, these LEDs cast a handy > light beam onto the cutting area to provide better visibility during the > cut. The > EJS700QK features the same tool-less blade change mechanism as found on > the EJS500QK. The same standard metal fence is included. > > Left: The EJS700QK offers the best value for money. > Middle: Tool-less blade change, two LED lights and 4 pendulum settings to > boot! > Right: Main controls with variable speed dial moved to the lateral edge. > > Also down below, you will notice a bevel lock lever. This is unique to > this Ryobi model, and is not a common feature found on many lower priced > jigsaws. > This bevel lock lever offers a tool-less base tilt function. Simply > release the lever and you can tilt the base through 45 degrees both ways, > and lock > it at any position within that range simply by engaging the level lock > (pushing it) back into its lock position. Very nifty and extremely quick > and easy > to use. A similar dust extraction port is provided and seats itself under > the saw body close to the cutting blade. The dust connector on the 700QK > has > a slightly larger opening near the blade than the previous two models, > plus, it has the added feature of an onboard blade storage area built into > the bottom > of the dust connector itself. This area can store about 3 blades, 4 if you > squeeze them in and it has a flip close door to keep them held securely - > a > handy addition, as long as you don't forget where you hid those blades > away! > > Up top the controls are slightly different on this model. The variable > speed control has been moved off the trigger and onto the lateral edge of > the tool. > It offers a speed range of 600 - 2,600 RPM via the dial. The top handle > and around the speed dial is covered with the "GripZone" rubber overmolds > for added > user comfort and slip protection. The 700QK also offers an extra pendulum > action setting. There are settings 0, 1, 2 and 3, as opposed to just 0, 1, > and > 2 on the lower-priced models. > > Left: The EJS700QK with the bevel lock lever shown. > Middle: Handy storage for up to four blades onboard the 700QK. > Right: A nice collection of wood and metal cutting blades to get you going > with the 700QK. > > In use I found the 700QK to be as good performance-wise as the previous > models mentioned. Of course, the performance of all three models may not > rate up > against a high-end Makita or Festool jigsaw, but the end result was just > about the same when it comes to the cut. There was a little vibration in > all three > models, as with most jigsaws, but nothing I could label as excessive. > Performance on the whole was very acceptable given the price tag of each > jigsaw. > Of the three, the 700QK was the most appealing to me. Not because it has > the most features, but simply because at just AUD$89, it offers many > useful features > you simply don't find on some of the competitors offerings for the same > cash investment. And if the saw itself was not a good deal, Ryobi throw in > a selection > of 15 blades to get you started! These are of above average quality in > regard to default blade inclusions with tools, but as mentioned above, > they won't > match or outperform a high-end blade from P&N or Bosch, or similar. But > they are very well suited as a beginner set and will get you through many > cuts > before you need to go out buying replacements. As a complete package, the > 700QK with all its features, and of course the LiveTool indicator too, in > my > opinion, offers excellent value for money. It is well worth the extra > dollars over the base models, plus it just looks better too (if that > counts for you). > If you don't own a jigsaw yet, this would be the one to kick-start your > collection. > > Ryobi "LiveTool" Router > Model ERT1250VN > > The only router so far to emerge with the "LiveTool" functionality from > Ryobi is the ERT1250VN model. The router packs a 1250W motor onboard, > which is powerful > to handle all handheld routing tasks and most table-mounted ones too, > except for say, full depth raised panel cutting. Power controls are found > on the > right handle (if viewed from the "front" of the tool) and comprise a > standard push switch on the front of the handle, with a switch lock on top > of the > same handle. The switch lock allows power to be constantly applied once > switched on without the need to hold the trigger in continuously. The > router offers > electronic variable speed from 14,000 RPM up to 31,500 RPM via the speed > control dial on the front of the tool. Simply dial in the speed you need > depending > on depth of cut and the diameter of the router bit you are using. I.e. > larger diameter router bits require a slower speed. > > Left: The ERT1250VN Router. > Middle: Electronic Variable Speed dial and depth adjustment setting. > Right: Main controls and depth locking lever. > > You can load both 12.7mm (1/2") or 6.35mm (1/4") router bits into this > router. To use the smaller 6.35mm bits, you will need to use the supplied > collet > adaptor/reducer provided with the package. Being able to use both sized > shank router bits offers flexibility and maximum use of your router bit > collection > in a single tool (if you happen to have a collection of both 6.35mm and > 12.7mm bits already). A large yellow spindle lock button will hold the > spindle > steady while you loosen the collet to remove a bit, or to tighten it after > installing a router bit. It seems a little easier to use than some spindle > lock > buttons which you need to depress below the surrounding surface of the > body. > > The ERT1250VN has a plunge depth capacity of 55mm, which is about average > for many routers, give or take 10%. Plunge action is relatively smooth. > Not the > best I have ever come across, but certainly not the worst either. It gets > smoother the more you use the tool and learn how to handle and plunge it > for > best effect. The columns are protected by flexible rubber, > compressible/expandable covers designed to prevent dirt and debris getting > onto the posts and > affecting plunge travel later on. They seem to work fine so far. Regular > maintenance of your tools is the key to keeping them all in good working > order > of course. A standard fare plunge lock lever is located near the power > controls in easy reach of the user, unless you have very small hands. In > addition > to the standard plunge function and locking lever, the model is also > capable of fine height adjustment. By using the fine height adjustment rod > and inserting > it into the router via the quick release button and locking anchor (an all > tool-less process) you can turn the knob on the fine adjustment rod to > raise > or lower router depth in smaller, more controlled amounts. Nothing > revolutionary about this feature, many routers offer this feature in a > similarly implemented > way, but few routers under $100 offer it, and the ERT1250VN retailing for > AUD$99 is one such router. Again, the value for money options seems to be > flowing > nicely in the "LiveTool" range of tools. In addition to the range of depth > adjustment options, the router has a stock standard depth stop bar/ > multi-depth > turret and scale system. This allows you, in free plunge mode, to plunge > to a pre-determined depth set up by the user each time to router is > plunged downward. > This is great for plunge routing tasks where multiple cuts need to be made > at the same depth, say for mortice routing. Or, you can implement the > multi-depth > turret to make deep trenches in multiple passes, which is safe to cut and > places less load on your tool and router bits, keeping them sharper. > > Left: The fine adjustment rod installed. > Middle: Depth stop turret and rubber sleeves protecting plunge columns. > Right: The accessories included in the kit. > > The ERT1250VN weighs in at 4.5kg. It's a solid router, fairly large in > physical dimension, but not unwieldy at the same time. It is certainly > much easier > to use for handheld tasks than my Triton 3HP router, which is a big beast > of a thing, and now permanently resides under my router table. > > Included accessories range from a parallel routing fence, for making cuts > parallel to a workpiece edge, to a router template guide insert (one size > only) > to a set of 8 common 6.35mm shank router bits including two straight > cutting bits, a wider straight bit for rabbeting or dadoes, a small cove > cutting bit, > a dovetail bit, two sizes of roundover bits, and a small roman ogee bit. > Quality wise, they rate amongst your average inexpensive set bits from the > hardware > store, but again, they will handle quite a few cuts before going dull, but > they are best used on softwoods as opposed to harder timbers. > > In use, I was quite happy with the performance of the router, especially > given its price tag. It has many nice features and runs smoothly for a > tool of > its retail value. The fence is basic in design but fairly solid, and > attaches easily to the router via two twist knobs on the base. Again, it's > not the > best router in the world, but you cannot expect it to be for the money you > pay. Apart from the undersized dust collection port, which had trouble > keeping > the cutting area free of chips on occasion, all other features seem to gel > well together to give an overall ease of use for the operator. The router > is > quite comfortable to grip and hold and fairly easy to maneuver around. I > would have liked to have seen a few extra template guide inserts thrown > in, but > again, the low price tag probably discourages this. It is difficult to > find aftermarket template guide kits to fit Ryobi routers too, so this > might be > a consideration if this is going to be your one and only router in the > workshop, but if not, the ERT1250VN offers an inexpensive alternative as a > second > router, or a primary router for basic routing tasks. As always, if you can > get your hands on one from a retail outlet and look it over before you > purchase, > I always recommend to do this where possible. The ERT1250VN will get > ongoing use in my workshop. > > Ryobi "LiveTool" Heavy Impact Drills > Models EID1000RE and EID1150RE > > I call these drills "heavy" impact drills only to differentiate them from > the two impact drills reviewed above. These models reviewed here are > simply more > powerful, larger in physical size and designed slightly differently. > Again, I will review them together as they are quite similar to each > other, bar a > couple small physical differences and spec ratings. Let's take a look. > > Table with 3 columns and 7 rows > > EID1000RE > EID1150RE > Motor > 900W > 1150W > Chuck Capacity > 13mm > 13mm > No Load Speed > 0 - 1,000 RPM (low setting) > 0 - 3,000 RPM (high setting) > 0 - 1,300 RPM (low setting) > 0 - 2.880 RPM (high setting) > Blows Per Minute > 0 - 16,000 (low setting) > 0 - 48,000 (high setting) > 0 - 20,800 (low setting) > 0 - 46,080 (high setting) > Drilling Capacity > 30mm (wood) > 13mm (steel) > 16mm (masonry) > 40mm (wood) > 13mm (steel) > 16mm (masonry) > Net Weight > 3.0kg > 3.2kg > table end > > Both drills are roughly of the same physical size and shape, a noticeable > difference being the forward metal casing at the front of the EID1150RE as > opposed > to the plastic forward body casing on the EID1000RE. This metal casing > probably contributes to the EID1150RE being slightly heavier in net > weight. Both > drills feature the "LiveTool" indicator of course, located at the lower > end of the operating handle (see included photos for the illuminated > indicator). > > Motor capacity on both models is more than adequate for most types of bits > that will fit into the chuck. 900+ watts should be plenty for all your > basic > drilling needs. If you are bogging down a 900W+ drill during a drilling > operation, either you are forcing your drill too hard, using bits that are > way > too big for this sized/rated drill, or your bits aren't as sharp as they > should be. Check all those factors first before you go blaming the drill > itself! > Speed settings on these models are in the average ranges for a corded hand > drill (0 - 3,000 RPM seems to be the normal range). Both drills feature a > 2-speed > gear box and have the option to set up for low speed or high speed > drilling via the turn knob on the side of the drill body. Position "1" > will deliver > speeds in the low speed range (as shown in table above) whereas setting to > position "2" enables the higher speed range (again, as shown in above > table). > For smaller diameter bits, drilling speed generally needs to be faster. > For metal drilling or very dense hardwood drilling, speeds are usually set > slower, > while higher speeds can be used for softer woods. As a side note, the > marketing blurb claims that the EID1150RE model features a "heavy duty" 2 > speed gearbox, > whereas this is not mentioned on the EID1000RE. > > Left: The EID1000RE. > Middle: Bubble level, black gear box setting and yellow impact switch. > Right: 13mm metal chuck! > > Regular drilling mode or impact drilling mode can be selected via the > switch on top of each unit. In impact mode, the drill chuck "hammers" > rapidly as it > rotates. This is often why these drills are referred to as "hammer > drills". This rapid impact mode is designed for drilling into masonry > materials, and > its effectiveness cannot be denied. Whenever you are drilling masonry, > switch to this mode and chuck up a masonry drilling bit. Masonry drilling > is generally > a bit louder than regular drilling because of the hammer action, but it > shouldn't be overly difficult, as long as you regularly clear out your > drill hole > of dust as you go. Both drills performed well in my masonry drilling > tasks, which involved a lot of picture hanging to a brick wall, and > concrete drilling > to fix Dynabolts to hold down a small garden shed I recently added to the > house. > > Each drill features a 13mm heavy duty keyless metal chuck. A spindle lock > button located on the underside of the body will lock the spindle to allow > you > to tighten or release the chuck jaws to hold/release a drilling bit. The > chuck itself seems to be of good quality, and no drill bit slippage was > evident. > This should be the case with a new/near new chuck of course. I visually > observed for any drill runout on the chuck with each drill. There is > little noticeable > runout visually, both drills running quite true (which means more accurate > sized and cleaner drill holes). > > There is a standard plastic auxiliary handle on both tools, coupled with a > depth rod adjustment feature which is fairly standard in design. Twisting > the > handle releases it and allows you to rotate it to a position that is > comfortable for each particular drilling job and tighten it back down > again. And, > as with the EID750REN model reviewed above, both drills here feature > onboard drill bit storage incorporated into the auxiliary handle, however, > only smaller > sized drill bits can fit in the holder (up to 6mm diameter). > > Left: The EID1150RE with metal forward casing. > Middle: Regular and impact mode switch and gear speed selector. > Right: Rubber overmold grips, trigger and LiveTool indicator shown. > > Power controls are relatively straight forward. You will find a > forward/reverse switch just above the trigger. The trigger itself offers > variable speed > function depending on how much you squeeze it. And onboard the trigger > itself is a speed dial wheel. However, on these dial wheels, there are > five regulated > speed settings, labeled A through to E. The combination of dial speed > selection, trigger squeeze and gearbox speed setting options makes it > relatively > easy to set a speed required for each different drilling task. It's all > very straight forward, as it should be. > > The standard rubber "Gripzone" overmolds cover most of the handle and rear > of the tool, encasing a dual directional bubble level to allow accurate > horizontal > and vertical drilling to be achieved. The rear of the drill body is also > ergonomically designed to allow a comfortable grip when applying force to > the > drill (don't apply too much of course). It is handy when hammer drilling, > as the drill tends to vibrate and jump around a little more than with > regular > drilling. > > No need to go hunting for drill bits... > > Price-wise, the EID1000RE lists at AUD$99 while the EID1150RE kit retails > for AUD$129. Both kits come shipped in a plastic molded case with an > assortment > of drill bits. Their are 13 bits in the EID1000RE kit and 15 in the > EID1150RE kit - a mix of brad-point drill bits, masonry drill bits and > regular twist > drill bits. The brad point bits are not too bad in fact, quite sharp and > very useful. The masonry bits also are useable. The twist bits however are > a little > dull for my liking, and they didn't retain their edge too well. Grab some > Sutton or P&N bits and you will notice the difference. Nonetheless, the > twist > bits can be sharpened if you have a good sharpening jig for a grinder or > small diamond files, and after being touched up, they can cut quite well > indeed. > > Overall, both drills again performed adequately for their given price > tags. The EID1150RE feels a little more solid in the hand though and is > probably a > little better built internally as well given its higher price tag. It > would get my recommendation between the two. I think a corded drill is one > area where > you can get lucky and find a good tool at a budget price. I mean, I have > had a $12 corded drill for years and it has given me great service. > Another "cheap" > drill blew up a few months after purchase. You can get lucky sometimes. > Regardless, the Ryobi tools come with a 2-year replacement warranty and > 30-day > money back satisfaction guarantee, so you are afforded good protection > with your purchase. > > ********************************************************************** > This message and its attachments may contain legally > privileged or confidential information. If you are not the > intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the > information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail > in error, please notify the sender immediately by return > e-mail and delete the e-mail. > > Any content of this message and its attachments which > does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy > must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by > Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or > attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. > ********************************************************************** > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml > > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various List Members At The Following Address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > Visit the new archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml > > Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various List Members At The Following Address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > Visit the new archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! 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