Hi
GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting Saw
Review

So you've made more than a hundred woodworking projects, spent endless
hours in the workshop, and now its time to renovate the bathroom,
kitchen or laundry
area and your significant other wants you to do it!

Tiling may not be your specialty, but if you need to cut tiles to fit an
edge or to work around an immovable object, a powered tile cutter will
make life
a little easier!

Today we are taking a look at the GMC Tile Cutter, which is another tool
from the GMC range fitted out with their "Redeye" laser feature. Let's
take a closer
look...

Out of the Box
The GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting saw ships mostly assembled. All you
really need to do is attach the laser mount arm to the saw, add the
fence, and install
the supplied batteries into the laser's battery compartment. Certainly
one of the more simpler and quicker out-of-the-box setups we have
encountered lately
I must say!

There is the normal high-quality, color-printed manual supplied with the
tile saw, as with most GMC products now, as well as standard warranty
card and
registration information. Everything was in tip-top condition once
assembled - no dints or dings to be seen.

Specifications
Below are the listed specifications as per the manual for this tool:

Power: 650W
Speed: 2950 RPM
Blade Size: 180mm Diamond Blade
Bore Size: 15.88mm (5/8")
Bevel Capacity: 0 to 45 degrees
Maximum Cutting Depth at 90 deg: 35mm
Maximum Cutting Depth at 45 deg: 21mm
Table Size: 420mm x 360mm
Laser Class: 2
Laser Output: <1mW
Batteries: 2 x AAA

Features & Function
The first feature you may notice once you have this tool out of the box
and are ready to move it to its place of use is the integrated tool
handle. Located
on the left side of the tool (when standing in front of it) the flip up
handle allows you to carry the tool around very easily and conveniently.
The weight
of the tool seems pretty well centered under the handle, so there is
little strain when lugging the tool around.

The motor offers 650W output. For tile cutting this is plenty. Most
tiles have a similar thickness and few ceramic tiles measure more than a
quarter or
third of an inch thick (except from some specialty tiles) so 650W of
power is more than enough to complete regular tile cutting tasks with
ease. I haven't
been able to bog the saw down yet during a regular tile cut. The motor
is also of the induction type. It is very quiet when switched on and no
ear protection
will be needed. Once you start cutting a tile however, the noise level
jumps up a little. This is not the saw itself becoming noisier, but
simply the noise
the tile makes as it is being sliced by the diamond blade.

The saw uses a standard, non-segmented 180mm diamond edged cutting
blade. The bore size is listed at 15.88mm, which is 5/8". Finding
replacement blades
shouldn't be terribly difficult if you search a big box hardware store,
or from tile retailers that also sell cutting gear (many do). A quality
tile cutting
blade will last for quite a long time if used only to cut common tile
materials. A plastic blade guard protects the user from accidentally
striking a spinning
blade causing injury. Personally, I found the blade guard was a little
flimsy, but when set properly, it performs the task it is designed to do
and doesn't
really move when the saw is turned on and cutting is in progress, so who
I am to criticize! Its light weight probably contributes to the saw's
easy portability,
so my back certainly is thankful for that.

The next main feature is the table itself. It can tilt to the right to
45 degrees if you have a need to make a beveled tile cut. As most tile
cuts will
likely be made at the square 90 degree setting, I didn't really find
much use for the tilting table function but at least the function is
there if and
when you do need it. A small knob on the front of the unit releases the
table allowing you to tilt it to 45 degrees. The small etched scale and
arrow marking
system approximates the bevel angle. It's crude but more than sufficient
for tiling cuts, where accuracy to less than a single degree is rarely
required,
if at all.

The scale on the table itself provides a method by which a distance from
the blade can be calculated to set the fence. It measures a little over
8 inches
left of the blade, and 4 inches right of the blade, with a central "0"
setting in line with the blade's projected kerf cut line. The scale is
found front
and back on the table as the fence is a dual clamp system and not self
aligning, so to get a square cut, you need to set the fence at the same
measurement
front and back.

The fence itself is of aluminum box construction. It is fairly rigid
when locked down. You can flex it a little, but only with excessive
pressure you wouldn't
normally be applying pushing a tile against it, so it is really a moot
point. Under normal use, there is no visible flex and tile cuts remain
parallel
front to back. As mentioned above, the fence uses a basic front/back
clamping method, using a cam-type clamp up front with a pressure
adjustable turning
lever, pretty similar to the clamps you find on Leigh dovetail jigs,
although not as substantial, or as bulky either. In use the fence works
well. A little
fiddly to align and clamp down at times, but no different to any other
tile cutting saw of similar design and price tag. A miter gauge is
provided which
sits over the tube fence and rides along the top of it. The fit is snug,
but easy moving with little side to side play to ensure good accuracy.
The guide
can be rotated 45 degrees either way to make mitered tile cuts, and the
right angle in the gauge itself provides a relatively secure "caddy" to
hold the
tile against while making a cut. The gauge is marked, curiously, in 2.5
degree increments, with major marks at 15, 30 and 45 degree settings
each way.
The yellow knob atop the gauge secures and releases the gauge to its
runner to allow you to make changes to the gauge's angle.

When it comes to alignment and fence issues, GMC's addition of their
"Redeye" laser to the tile saw offers back some brownie points. Since
most tile cuts
are not measured by setting the fence itself, but rather scribed as a
line on the tile itself to fit a particular space taken right from the
jobsite, the
ability to bring the fence and tile together, then move them to line up
your pencil line on the tile with the laser line generated from the
laser arm "floating"
above makes quick and simple fence setting for distance possible. The
laser uses two AAA size batteries, and two are included in the kit to
get you started,
and even these are nicely branded with GMC logos! The laser can be
adjusted in several planes to line up with the blade's projected cutting
line forward
of the blade tip allowing fairly precise fence settings. Naturally,
precautions must always be followed when using any laser products.
Although the output
is low, personal injury is still very possible. Never look directly into
the laser beam itself, and read all other precautions in the provided
manual to
ensure safe use. The laser arm attaches to the side of the unit with the
provided hardware, but you do of course have the option to remove the
laser arm
from the saw if you wish. I find it very handy, so it's not going
anywhere!

The main power switch is a simple on/off switch with a yellow safety
key. The safety key can be removed to essentially disable the switch and
prevent the
saw from being used. These switches are great when you have small
children around with inquisitive minds! However, they are also a good
safety feature
to disable the switch when servicing the machine, changing blades, or
cleaning it down etc.

Looking down underneath the table you will find the water compartment.
This area under the saw feeds the blade with a constant supply of
cooling water,
which also helps reduce the amount of fine airborne dust thrown up by
the tile as it is cut. There is a plug feature which also acts as the
maximum water
fill level line. If you overfill the compartment, the excess water will
simply drain out from the bottom of the saw body. If you have ever cut
tile before,
you will know very well how much dust can be created in the process.
Adding a little water to the process greatly reduces this problem. Sure,
you often
do end up with a nice sludgy mix of dust and water building up in the
lower compartment and on the table itself after many cuts, but it is
easily removed
with a rag. It sure beats inhaling copious amounts of fine tile dust and
suffering serious lung damage as a result. Bring on the slime, I say! I
found
that almost no visible dust was created above the table top when cutting
a tile. The water really helps reduce airborne dust to almost zero.

Use and Conclusion
The GMC LSTSAW Tile Cutting Saw is quite simple to use providing you
have some basic knowledge of the tool and understand the way it cuts.
Those who own
a table saw will be very familiar with these principles, as they are
essentially the same with this tile saw. For new users, the included
full-color manual
will provide all the tips and safety information you need to use the
tool correctly and safely.

With proper set up, making dead straight cuts to a marked line should be
no problem at all with this saw. With the many tiles I cut, there was
really no
sign of chipout on either face of the tile, and cuts were very clean and
"sharp". Given its price tag of AUD $169 I feel you do get enough out of
this
saw to field the opinion that it does provide good value for money. It's
not a commercial machine, but it's not priced at a commercial level
either, and
for what some hire companies charge you to rent out a tile saw for a
couple days, you could buy your very own GMC LSTSAW tile saw to keep and
use for as
long as you want. Sure, the saw is not absolutely perfect, and I have
mentioned some minor issues in the text above, but in the end, I found
it achieved
the task it is designed to do; to cut tiles quickly and easily with good
accuracy. A handy little tool to have for your next tiling job.

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