Hi Lee,

Actually there are different additives, I think they use acrylic and other
things.

I just had a look on the Web, I found an interesting article where they
suggest you cut a groove into the existing cement with a circular saw and
masonry blade, tilted over about 5 degrees and go all around the area to be
recovered, about three inches in from the edge. They recommend and so would
I that you take a mallet and cold chisel and knock away anything that is
loose, if corners are failing or breaking up, cut back to good concrete and
make a bit of a ledge to support the patch.

In the case that the edges will be involved take care to form up the edges
well to retain the new concrete.

Clean it all up really well with a broom or even a vacuum cleaner.

Dampen the surface well but no standing water, the patch will hold better on
damp concrete.

They recommend using sand mix concrete for patches under around three inches
thick otherwise you want more stone in the mix. You mix it up to be stiff.
Too wet and cement isn't so strong.

Now here is where they recommend adding what they are calling acrylic
fortifier. It should take the place of about 50 to 80 percent of the water
apparently.

You then force the mix into your grooves which, being angled will help to
stick it down and you pour or apply your mix in more or less the usual way,
over filling slightly, then tamping and floating it all even, trawling it
and making sure it is all evenly covering.

Best cement is made between 50 and 80 degrees F. The warmer the quicker it
sets up but also the more likely it is to crack.

I like to trowel the surface and tamp it for quite a long time to bring up
more of the cream, I find this offers the opportunity of a smoother surface.
You can then treat it with a sponge float for a rougher textures surface or
a stiff bristle brush or broom to texture it with lines, particularly if
there are concerns about the surface being slippery.

When it is beginning to get pretty firm it is a good time to treat the edges
with a finishing trawl, the tool which puts a slightly beveled and rounded
corner on the top surface.

You should cover with plastic to keep the moisture in so it cures more
slowly.

I like to lightly spray it over from time-to-time, depending on the heat and
so on, probably after about four hours and then a couple of times a day for
the first couple of days. Just a light sprinkle until it is wet then cover
again. Generally the slower concrete cures, the stronger it will be.

Anyway, the agent is acrylic concrete fortifier. Be sure you buy more of it
and the sand mixed than you need, I ran short today and I will have a mess
next week when I can buy more cement. I think what happened is this is
different, comes in plastic bags and turns out to be smaller bags than the
stuff I had left over from last year. Your project isn't all that big and
the bags I bought today were 4 bucks each so a couple of extras won't kill
and if in good condition you can likely bring them back.

I hope this was helpful.



Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2006 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a concrete question


>
> Dale, you refer to a latex additive . what  should I ask for, just that?
> a latex additive. However maybe I'll be smart and wait until after you
> do your repair job. at the rate we are moving here it will be the middle
> of September. Oh I forgot. yes this slab is quite flat , however the new
> layer we put on we will pitch, say from 2 inches to 1  3/4 inches so
> making any water drain off quickly...thanks.Lee
>
>
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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