Well Kevin,
I am hardly anytype of chimney expert. If the leaking is happening inside
the chimmney I would suspect the cap may have blown off and depending on the
size of the opening and construction.  Stainless steel versus galvanized
steel it might be as pricy as you were quoted.  I agree that seems too high
for caulking or whatever he was trying.  If the leak is outside the chimmney
but along it it sounds like a roof flashing problem which might be
temporarly solved with caulking but someway of inserting the flashing into
the brick joints is probably called for.  If it is a metal chimmney there
may be a missing storm collar that is a narrower piece of metal that goes
around the outside and covers the small gap between the flashing assemble
and the actual pipe.  A new storm collar shouldn't be much as new caulking
shouldn't be much.  New metal flashing into brick joints puts you back into
the $300 range again.  So a lot depends on what is wrong.  A good
description of the actual construction and finding out where it is really
leaking is needed.  Maybe my nebulus description have given you some idea of
how much it can vary.
Ron
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin Doucet" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to fix Crumbling Chimney Mortar


> Hi,
>
> My chimney leaks. I hear drops falling down from above. A year ago, I
> had a person to come and try to fix it. He told me he used a
> high-grade very expensive rubber sealant but I would not be able to
> use the gas logs any more. Oh, yes he also told me I owed $280. I was
> not willing to pay that much for some one sealing the top of my
> chimney in a manner I did not agree with or think should cost so
> much. Well, suffice it to say I had no more business with that person.
>
> Ok, now we are one year out and I am having the same problem. So, now
> I ask what is the correct way to repair my chimney and still use the
> gas logs? And what is the estimated cost?
>
>
> Thanks.
> At 08:03 AM 8/18/2006 +1000, you wrote:
>
>
> >         Hi
> >Avoid extensive, costly damage to a masonry chimney. Maintain the
> >mortar joints by tuck-pointing (repointing) them, and make sure the
> >chimney crown remains
> >sealed against water.
> >
> >Tuck-pointing masonry joints
> >
> >Steps:
> >1.
> >Work from the bottom up to remove loose mortar a few feet (a meter
> >or so) at a time. Set up ladders or scaffolding if necessary. Use a
> >mason's hammer and
> >chisel, a scraper and similar hand tools for difficult-to-reach
> >areas. For extensive tuck-pointing, rent an electric grinder with a
> >tuck-pointing attachment
> >and blades.
> >
> >2.
> >Mix water into a packaged mortar mix as directed on the label, using
> >a cement-mixing container and hoe.
> >
> >3.
> >Apply the mortar by first loading the bottom side of a square
> >mason's trowel (or a board) with mortar (see A). Then, holding the
> >trowel against the chimney
> >just below the joint you're filling, slice off a portion of the
> >mortar with a pointing trowel and pack it into the joint. (Image 1)
> >
> >4.
> >When the joints in an area are all full, strike off the excess by
> >slicing through the mortar with a brick trowel held flat against the
bricks.
> >
> >5.
> >Compress, shape and smooth the joint. Run a jointing tool across the
> >joints for concave and V joints (see B). Or use the tip of a
> >pointing trowel to create
> >a 30-degree bevel from the underside of the upper course to the edge
> >of the lower course. Knock off any excess and move up to the next
> >section. (Image
> >2)
> >
> >6.
> >When the joints have set up, clean the face of the brick with a soft
brush.
> >
> >Repairing a chimney crown
> >
> >Steps:
> >1.
> >If a traditional crown made of portland cement and sand is badly
> >eroded or cracked, replace it with a modern (crown-sealer) system.
> >These coatings, which
> >you can apply with a trowel (following the manufacturer's
> >instructions), remain flexible and provide a far superior water
> >seal. If the crown has some cracks
> >and is beginning to show wear, or even if a masonry crown is in good
> >condition, consider using this material as part of an overall chimney
repair.
> >
> >2.
> >Seal joints between the clay flue's liner and the crown with
> >high-temperature caulk.
> >
> >Overall Tips:
> >
> >For very minor tuck-pointing repairs, use mortar-patching material
> >in caulking-gun cartridges.
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Kevin Doucet
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> confuse as says
>
> Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!
>
>
>
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>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
>  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
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>
>
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>


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
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