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Plaster Work - Methods, Materials & Techniques

This process and the provision of additives during manufacture, determine the 
type and grade of building plaster, which have different setting and hardening
times.  Different types and grades are usually sold under brand names.  To 
ensure that the correct building plaster is supplied, tell the dealer what 
repair
work is being done.  Because the proportions of the constituent parts in mixing 
are important, it is advisable to buy pre-mixed building plasters.  These
are available from any building merchant store.

Plastering is usually beyond the scope of the amateur building enthusiast and 
it is not advisable to attempt to re-plaster a large area of a building wall
or ceiling.  Small repairs can be undertaken without difficulty.  In most 
cases, the reason for damaged plasterwork is dampness.  Always trace the source
and repair the fault before trying to put on new plaster.

Two coats of plaster are required for any building wall.  The first, called the 
undercoat rendering, must form a good bond or key with the wall.  On brickwork,
dig out the existing plaster between the bricks to a depth of ¾ in. (20mm).  On 
other building walls, roughen the surface by hacking or hammering with
a sharp piece of metal, such as a cold chisel.  To give a good bond between the 
undercoat and the final coat, which is called the skim coat, use a 'scratcher'
on the surface to make score marks about 1/16 in.  (2mm) deep.  On 
timber-framed surfaces in old houses, the bonding is provided by thin strips of 
wood
called lathing.  If the lathing is inadequate for a bond, fit plasterboard.  If 
a white deposit appears on the building plaster when it has dried, brush
it off.  If the deposit continues to appear over a period of more than 18 
months, the probable cause is dampness.

When mixing building plaster, a clean bucket, basin or bowl must be used this 
will prevent pieces of dirt being applied to the plastered wall.  Many 
plastering
tools such as hawks, 'scratchers' and bats can be made to save money but many 
must be bought.  It is advisable to purchase good quality building tools
to obtain professional results.  The better the blade of a float, for example, 
the better the finish.  Buy the lightest float available for easy handling.
 To hold the building plaster within easy reach for high work, lay a piece of 
marine plywood or hardboard on your scaffolding, commonly known as a spot
board.  A hawk or "dog" is used to carry plaster to the area being covered.  
Buy a small trowel for mixing the building plaster and repairing small areas
of damage; can also be used for brickwork pointing.  Two floats should be used; 
a metal one for applying large areas of building plaster and to polish
skim coats and a wooden float, which is used to give undercoats a rough finish. 
 A homemade 'scratcher' can be made by, driving nails into a hand held
size piece of wood.  This is used to scratch the undercoat to provide a bond 
for the final coat of building plaster.  To dampen the surface before 
plastering,
use either an old distemper brush or a two-knot stock-brush.

To commence plastering one should remove all loose plaster with a hammer and 
chisel and clean the building surface with a wire brush.  Once the surface
is clean, it should be wet just before applying the plaster.  If sand is needed 
for mixing the undercoat, make sure that it is clean.  Never use beach
sand as it contains salt that can spoil the surface.  Mix the plaster powder 
and sand together before adding clean water to give a dough-like consistency.
 Use the mixture immediately.  At all times the metal float should be kept wet 
during plastering.  Hold it at right angles to the mortar, sweep the plaster
on to the hawk and shake it gently so that the building plaster settles.  When 
taking the building plaster off the hawk to start work, lift it with the
underside of the float blade.  Push the building plaster firmly onto the wall 
and hold the blade at 30 degrees when spreading it.  If the float is held
too flat, it sticks to the plaster.  As the plaster spreads, gradually release 
pressure on the blade so that it flattens towards adjacent surfaces.

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