Hi Tom, your measuring device sounds very similar to one of my jigs but even 
simpler to build.  Every once in a while we have an inspiration, and get lucky 
and build a tool or jig which actually works well for us.  May be next time I 
need a measuring jig I'll build it your way.

 

Thanks for sharing your idea:

 

Paul Franklin  

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Tom Huhn 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 8:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs


  About ten years ago I made something like these measuring devices out of 
wood. I cut two pieces of alder 3/4 x 1 about 5' and 3' and I cut a dove tail 
slot down the hole lenght and cut a matching piece to the dove tail slot that 
slides in the slot. I put a 't' nut in the 3/4 x 1 with a thumb screw to lock 
the slide stick. I use these all the time for taking measurements for cuts and 
they work extremely well and very acusrate
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

  The recent interest in measuring devices on this list prompts me to describe 
a couple of types of measuring gages or jigs that I built about 25 years ago, 
and that I still use to day. The first was made with a 4 foot length of 3/16 
stainless steel rod and 2 pieces of ¾ square steel bar stock about 1 and ¼ 
long. The idea is to permanently affix one of the pieces of bar stock 
perpendicular to one end of the rod, either by gas welding or by threading the 
end of the rod and drilling and tapping the bar stock. The other piece of bar 
stock is drilled perpendicular to it's long axes, so it can slide smoothly 
along the rod. A second hole is drilled in this piece of bar stock parallel to 
it's long axes, which intersects the first whole. This second whole is tapped 
to accommodate a threaded bolt that acts as a set screw to lock the sliding 
square stock at any point along the rod. I used a bolt with a large knurled 
head that could be easily tightened or loosened by hand for the locking bolt. 
To use this device, I align the end of the rod with the fixed block at one end 
of the measurement to be taken, and slide and tighten the movable block at the 
other end of the piece or gap to be measured. I then can transfer this 
measurement to a board for cutting or use it to set stop blocks on a chop saw 
or set a fence on a table saw. I have found this device to be quick to use and 
accurate enough for cabinet work. Over the years I have built several shorter 
versions of this device for use in tight areas.

  My second home made device has turned out to be especially handy for 
installing base boards, door trim, interior studs or wall paneling. It is 
primarily made out of wood and it telescopes from 4 to 8 feet in length, and 
can be locked at any point between. It is made from a 4 Foot, clear ¾ pine 
board about 2 Inches wide. I cut a 3/8 Inch deep by ¾ Inch wide groove down the 
center of one of the 2 Inch faces of the board and ripped a 4 Foot strip of 
pine to slide smoothly in the groove. I next cut a 4 Foot long by 2 Inch piece 
of ¼ plywood and glued and nailed it over the groove in the pine board, to make 
a 4 Foot box or sleeve for the pine strip to slide in. I then cut a 2 by 2 Inch 
¾ Inch thick pine block and drilled a ¼ whole in its center. Next I temporarily 
aligned this block on the plywood side covering the groove at one end of the 
device and with the sliding strip removed, I extended the ¼ Inched Whole 
through the plywood, into the groove, but not into the pine board at the bottom 
of the groove. Next I tightly mortised a ¼ square nut into the face of the 2 by 
2 Inch block so it lines up with a threaded bolt inserted through the whole in 
the block and is flush with one face of the block. With a ¼ bolt threaded 
through the block and nut, and protruding about ½ inch below the nut I inserted 
the end of the locking bolt through the plywood side and into the groove below. 
I then glued and nailed the block and locking bolt assembly to the plywood side 
covering the groove. With the sliding pine strip inserted into the groove the 
threaded bolt on the block can be tightened to lock the strip in any position 
between 4 and 8 Feet. To use the device I align one of its ends with a wall or 
the floor and slide out the strip to make the needed measurement. With the 
locking bolt tightened this measurement can then be transferred to a board or 
panel for accurate cutting. I don't use this jig often, but it's nice to know 
that it is hanging on the shop wall when the need arises.

  I think that it has taken me longer to describe this stuff than it took to 
build it. Sorry for being so long winded.

  Paul Franklin 

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:08 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler

  Dale,
  I liked your description of using the ruler to set up your miter saw. I 
  thought that I was the only one who used his chin or cheek to hold down the 
  saw to align the stock. I don't know how many times my wife made a comment 
  when she saw me doing that. Now I can tell her that it is the proper way to 
  set up the saw.
  Great description of the tool and use.
  Lenny
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: <[email protected]>
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] quesion on Rotomatic ruler

  You have done pretty well at describing the rule.

  The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut is
  the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if
  you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even to
  use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.

  You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the
  rectangular nut, this is to help orient it.

  You are correct, the half inch marks are where a thread is continued all
  around the face of the milled side of the threaded rod. Each revolution of
  the nut represents one sixteenth of an inch so, half a turn is a 32nd of an
  inch and a quarter turn is a 64th. two complete turns is an eighth of an
  inch and so on.

  If you require more than 6 inches then you thread the 6 inch rod bringing
  your measure up as far as 12 and a half inches, add the 12 inch rod or the
  18 inch rod or any combination there of and you have the lengths you
  require.

  What I really like about the measure is that I can set a size off of a plan
  or I can take a measure from a project, lock the nut into place then go to
  my miter saw and pressing the end of the rod against the blade, adjust the
  wood to be cut until it is flush with the nut and cut an exact size. I
  frequently end up with a bit of a bruise on my chin from holding the saw
  down against the board, I do have a bungee cord hanging on the cabinet I can
  use to hold the saw down to the wood while I set the distance precisely but
  this takes time and I often don't bother.

  I can as easily use it to very accurately set the distance from rip fence to
  blade on my table saw and so on.

  This is of course not adequate beyond 42 and a half inches although I
  suppose you could get more rod if you need or want it.

  I do try to keep a stick or two around here precisely 4 feet long but rarely
  do I need it. Even when I raised this addition it was mostly fine to use the
  dimensional lumber and/or relative measures with a locking tape measure. I
  used a block to space studs, locking tape measure to determine the actual
  length of span for building the roof trusses, I didn't actually even have
  the roto ruler back then but a folding meter stick ruler.

  A tactile ruler though just isn't accurate enough for cabinet work and
  hardly for structural framing. Things like carpenter squares known to be 24
  on the two inch leg and 16 on the inch and a half leg can also be helpful in
  frame construction.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Scott Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: <[email protected]>
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:00 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] quesion on Rotomatic ruler

  > Ok folks, I ordered my Rotomatic and received it today. Ain't quite
  > what I imagined and upon further thought, I haven't any clue how the
  > hell you use this thing. So, here goes my question .
  > First let me describe what I have to be sure we're all on the same page.
  >
  > I have a piece about six inches long, it is sort of oval shaped, in
  > other words, its flat on both sides and is rounded on the edges so
  > the nuts will turn. The top surface has marking at every half inch I
  > believe this is the correct measurement,b ut in any case, we'll move
  > along. There are two nuts, one that is completely square and the
  > other is a six or eight-sided deal. Included are three rods that are
  > different lengths, one six inch, one approx 12 inches, and one that
  > appears to be about 18 inches. Sorry, I haven't even had a chance to
  > measure the pieces, but for our purposes, this will explain things.
  > Now each rod which is round can be screwed together and the six-inch
  > piece I said had the nuts is also able to be attached to the rods.
  > Now I assume that the square nut might be the locking nut, but don't
  > hold me to this.
  > Now, with that description, how do you actually use this thing.
  > The folks at the NFB store where I found the item were not much help,
  > but I guess they sell the stuff, not use it. So, perhaps someone can
  > explain this thing to me before I decide to pack it up and send it on
  > back up the road. Might be a great tool, but based on what I thought,
  > I surely have no clue how you'd use it.
  > Thanks for any assistance.
  >
  > Scott
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
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  >
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  >
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  >

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links

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  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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