Hey Ray,

This post on backyard gardening was absolutely awesome.  Thanks so much for 
sending it.  This is
definitely going into my folder of keepers!

See ya,
Scooter



Contact me at:
Donnie Parrett
1956 Asa Flat Road
Annville, KY  40402
Home #  606-364-3321
Cell #  606-438-2557
Church #  606-364-PRAY
Email  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ray Boyce
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 9:29 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: {SPAMFILTER} [BlindHandyMan] Backyard Gardening


Hi All
Backyard Gardening

Backyard gardening offers so many benefits it's hard to name them, but first
is probably exercise. Gardening can provide exercise from the "easy-does-it"
to a full workout, depending on how hard you want to work. The elderly can
benefit from time spent gardening. Another benefit is simply an excuse to be
out in the fresh air. Experts are quick to say both exercise and time spent
outdoors can reduce stress, a common problem today.

There's also the satisfaction of planting seeds and watching them grow.
There's something very satisfying about digging in the dirt and getting your
hands
dirty. Many youngsters enjoy gardening. Let them plant their own seeds and
take care of them, and it should be something fun like melons or pumpkins.
Gardening
is a great teaching tool about nature's cycle, as well as providing family
time together. Don't expect kids to do all the weeding in the family garden,
as was the norm years ago when families depended on their gardens for food.

Last, but not least, gardening can provide food; a handful of tomatoes from
a patio pot for a summertime treat, or food for the entire family. And, you
can determine how your food plants are grown, for instance grown
organically, without using chemicals. A backyard garden of flowers,
vegetables, fruits
and berries can add to the value of your home as well as the enjoyment of
your backyard. Another benefit is the wildlife it will bring. Even a
hard-worked,
weeded, picked and cared-for garden will be visited by numerous birds and
wildlife.

It's important to have a plan for your backyard garden. Shown is the
author's plan for 2006.

Garden Planning

Regardless of whether you wish to have a fully landscaped backyard with
formal flower gardens, or a simple vegetable patch, the most important step
is to
form a plan. Make a rough scale drawing of your backyard and sketch out what
you want. Do you want flower beds, shrubbery, fruit and nut trees, berries,
a vegetable garden? How close is the water source? How big do you want your
vegetable garden? Some of the answers may be in the topography and
geographical
location of your backyard. Plants have different requirements not only for
sunlight, but also moisture and soil types. You can amend most soils, and
you
can provide irrigation or water, although the latter may be restricted in
some locales. You can't, however, ignore the light needs of plants. Shady
plants
won't grow in the sun, nor sun-loving plants in the shade. For instance most
vegetables require a full day of sun. Partial shading during a portion of
the day can be tolerated, but full sun is best.

The soil must be properly fertilized and limed. Fertilizer is available in
several different forms, including granular, water-soluble and organic.

Fertilizing

Is your soil sandy, clay-based or extremely rocky? Most plants do best in a
loose, loamy or friable soil. But don't let this problem stop you. Our
garden
in located on a sloping, rocky Ozark hilltop with very little soil, and we
often get kidded about growing more rocks than vegetables. We do, however,
grow
lots of food from our garden because we've spent a lot of time building up
the soil with compost. A retaining wall on one side prevents the soil from
washing
down the hillside. The best soil amendment is horse manure added well before
planting time. Adding organic matter in the form of peat moss, compost or
decayed leaves will greatly help almost any soil.

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All plants require some sort of fertilization. It's a good idea to take a
soil test to determine what fertilizer requirements are needed. Merely dig a
sample
of soil and take it to your local County Extension Service office. There is
a fee for the test. The test information can provide a general guide for
fertilizing,
but it's also important to match the fertilizer requirements to the plant.
For instance a heavy feeding of nitrogen to potatoes makes them grow bushy
leaves,
but no potatoes. Most plants, however, do not require a lot of fertilizer.
Bagged fertilizer comes with three elementsÃ… itrogen, phosphorus and
potassiumÃ…and
is sold with different strengths of each nutrient. A balanced fertilizer
such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 is a good vegetable garden fertilizer, or you may
prefer
one with less nitrogen, such as 5-10-5 as a general purpose fertilizer.
About five pounds per 100 square feet is considered adequate. Incidentally,
a quart
jar holds about 2 pounds of granular fertilizer. Apply 2-1/2 pounds before
you till the soil, then till and add the other half, raking it into the
upper
inch or so of soil.

Some soils may also need additional organic matter, but regardless the
garden or bed must be deeply tilled.

Some plants, such as corn and beans require more nitrogen. Side-dressing
corn with nitrogen when the plants are 2 inches high and then again when
they begin
to tassel adds to productivity. We usually spread about a quart of
fertilizer per 100 foot row. Side-dress beans when they first bloom.

One of the easiest methods of adding fertilizer is with a water-soluble
fertilizer such as Miracle Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. With an
analysis
of 15-30-15, it doesn't burn plants and provides a good all purpose,
easy-does-it fertilizer. We've used it for years in a number of ways. For
tomatoes
and peppers we run a soaker hose down the row, under mulch. We remove the
sprinkler end of a Miracle Gro Garden Feeder and attach the feeder between
the
soaker hose and the feed hose. The canister is filled with a Miracle Gro
product designed specifically for tomatoes and watered once a week, starting
as
soon as the first blossoms appear. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and other
plants that grow individually are treated by simply adding Miracle Gro to a
watering can. This is also a great way to fertilize cucumbers, squash and
zucchini (if you really want that much zucchini). We used the product a long
time before the company came out with their Garden Feeder, but the feeder,
hooked to a garden hose, works great for both fertilizing and watering long
rows of vegetables, such as green beans, beets and peas. A number of other
water-soluble garden fertilizers are now available. If you prefer, you can
garden
organically by adding organic fertilizer in the way of farmyard animal or
poultry manures and compost.

Probably the most overlooked yet most important factor in a productive
garden is lime. Lime changes the pH or acidity of the soil. Adding lime
makes the
soil less acidic. Without the proper acid level, or pH, some plants can't
assimilate the nutrients provided in fertilizers. But again, it's important
to
know the requirements of specific plants. Most vegetables do well in a soil
that is lightly acidic, or with a pH of 6.4 to 6.8. A neutral acidic level
is a pH of 7. In many parts of the country, soils are quite acidic and some
plants, such as blueberries, azaleas and others, require acidic soils.

Space Issues

The next question: How much space do you have? If your garden is
postage-stamp size, you might wish to forego corn as it takes a lot of
space. You might
also consider container gardening. These days a wide range of plants have
been "designed" just for small or container gardens that can brighten a
patio
or deck and, with proper care, some of the vegetables can be very
productive. This translates mostly into regular watering and fertilizing,
but not over
fertilizing. Specialized containers are also available that make container
gardening easy. For instance the Gardener's Supply Tomato Success Kit comes
with a patented self-watering planter that eliminates the drowned and
drought problems of container growing. The kit, claimed to grow 30 pounds of
tomatoes
in 3-1/2 feet, includes the container, a support cage, self-watering
container mix and fertilizer.

One method of growing more in less space is with raised beds. Since the soil
in the beds is not compacted, it's also easier to planet and care for. The
author's beds are made of 2x6's and 2x4's.

Even with lots of acres for a garden, we've gone to raised beds for many
plants. Once established, raised beds make gardening much easier. With
raised beds
the soil isn't compacted by walking on it, and the plants are higher so
they're easier to tend. Most gardens have more wasted space than growing
space,
with walking paths between rows of vegetables, and to provide the "proper"
growing space for the vegetables. Raised beds allow growing more food in
less
space. You also don't add soil amendment to the entire garden, only the
beds. Mulch applied between and around the beds prevents weed problems. With
a
full-time woodworking shop, it's not hard to get enough sawdust for mulch
around the beds, and it's easy to kneel on while working the beds. Other
possibilities
include wood chips, even sand or pea gravel. Onions, lettuce, spinach,
radishes and carrots are the most common plants in our raised beds. Potatoes
also
do well in raised beds, because the soil is never walked on and the softer
soils are more conducive to raising spuds. Our beds consist of
pressure-treated
2-by-6's fastened together with screws to create 4-by-6-foot beds. Beds can
also be built of naturally resistant woods such as redwood, cedar or of
landscape
timbers or railroad ties.

Another consideration is how much time you realistically want to or can
afford to spend gardening. It's easy to plant more than you are able to care
for
properly. I'm the world's worst at that. In the past we've had as many as
three gardens, and then had to work like a slave to keep them up, even when
the
fish were biting like crazy. Some plants also take a great deal more time
than others. For instance, strawberries are great tasting, fun to grow, and
you
can grow better quality than you can buy, but they do require a great deal
of work. Tomatoes take some effort, but once established they're easy to
grow.
Peas require more effort than green beans, and beets more effort than beans
because they must be thinned for a good crop. If flowers are your main
interest,
roses take a lot of work, petunias very little, and a cut-flower garden is
the easiest. We plant a row of marigolds, zinnias, balsam, coreopsis and
other
flowers alongside our vegetable garden and they add color inside and out.
Once established, perennial flowers are the easiest because you don't have
to
plant them each spring.

It's important to match the varieties to your garden needs, space and time.
Sweet corn is a favorite, but does take more space.

Seeds & Plants

With your garden planned, the next step is to acquire seeds or plants. These
days with mega stores and the big home-building stores, plus growing numbers
of greenhouses and garden centers selling plants and seeds, we have a
virtual multitude of plants, as well as seeds to choose from. And, there are
the
mail-order seed companies. When the first seed catalogs arrive in our
mailbox the first week of January, they're immediately perused for seeds.

Although many of the more common seeds and plants are available locally, we
have some old favorites that are not available other than from specific seed
companies.

Next, decide whether you want seeds, plants or a combination. Some seeds are
more difficult to start than others. You may be better off starting with
plants,
for instance some varieties of sweet peppers. Some flowers, such as
impatiens and begonias, are extremely small and require more skill in
starting. However,
tomatoes, cabbage, broccoli and others are easy even for a beginner. Onions
are best planted as sets or plants, rather than seeds. Some plants, planted
in volume, such as corn or beans, are purchased as seed.

Seed starting, however, can be fun and allow you to grow plants that might
not be available otherwise. In addition to the seeds, a number of
seed-starting
tools or "kits" are available from sources such as Burpee, Henry Field's,
Gurney's and other mail-order seed companies as well as from Gardener's
Supply
Company. Most of the kits feature separate cells for plants, a clear plastic
"greenhouse" cover, and utilize wicking or capillary watering that prevent
overwatering. Seed-starting mixes are also readily available. In addition to
the starting kits, a bottom-heat warming mat can jump-start your seeds. The
best method of starting is under a fluorescent or plant-growing light.

We start a large number of seeds planted in rows in hand-made wooden flats.
We place soft rope in the bottom of the flats and place the rope ends in
fruit
jars to provide a homemade wick water system. We fill the flats with
purchased seed-starting mix and water it well. We use a thin wooden slat to
press
indentations in row form in the flat. Once the seeds are dropped in, we
cover them as per the seed-packet information and place a piece of kitchen
plastic
over the top of the flat. A light and bottom heat warming pad provides quick
and easy seed starting. Regardless of the tools used, it's important to
follow
the seed-starting instructions from the seed packet before planting outside,
as well as to the depth the seeds should be planted. If you have planted
seeds
in rows in flats, they do better if they're thinned or even transplanted
into individual cells once two leaves have formed. If planting in cells,
remove
all but one plant from each cell.

Starting your own seeds can be fun, an economical method for large numbers
of plants and a way of obtaining varieties that are not available locally.

Planting

The next step is to determine the planting date for the varieties you've
selected, and for that you should know the last frost date for your area.
Some
varieties, such as peas and spinach, do best when planted in cold weather
and they can be planted about six weeks before the last frost. Potatoes,
onions,
radishes and lettuce should be planted about a month before the last frost.
Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower plants can be transplanted about a month
before the frost, but you may have to cover them in severe frosts. The
tender plants, such as tomatoes, peppers, corn, beans, squash and cucumbers,
should
not be planted until several weeks after the last frost.

Any plants started from seed, whether at home or purchased, should be well
hardened before setting out in the garden. Place outside in a shady spot,
and
out of the wind, for an hour the first day and then gradually increase the
time and sun allowance until the plant is well hardened. Water each plant
well
when transplanting.

The continuing biggest problem with gardening is weeds. They are inevitable
and constant. Early cultivation around plants can cut down on weed problems,
but mulching with old hay, straw, bark chips, sawdust and other organic
materials can help in the war against weeds. Use at least a 2-inch-thick
layer.
The mulch also keeps the soil cooler in hot weather and helps preserve
moisture.

When you bite into a home-grown juicy tomato, or a sweet, delicious ear of
corn, or place a bouquet of cut flowers from your garden on the table,
you'll
appreciate all your sweat and hard work. And, your body will probably thank
you as well.

Backyard gardening can not only be a great deal of fun, it's also healthful
exercise, stress reducing and you can produce your own great tasting food.

Flowers are a favorite with many gardeners, and beautiful flower beds can
add to the enjoyment of your backyard, as well as enhance the value of your
property.



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