You're welcome. Good luck on your project, Ron.
--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hey man these are exactly the two answers I had in mind. Both John and
> Mickly
> replied and gave me their phone numbers and I called and chatted with them
> also
> to get a more clear understanding. I am attempting to conjur up some way of
> accomplishing this function without a lot of machine shop work. That may not
> be
> possible without losing a fair amount in accuracy. Thinking about a 7/16"
> end
> mill chucked in a drill press to mill down the threads every half inch.. And
> using all thread couplers instead of drillling and tapping the rod.. Perhaps
> using a three inch rule with a three inch, six inch, twelve and so forth may
> accomplish similiar function. I got lots of peices of short all thread.
> Well
> anyway thants for digging out the old posts. I thought I had copied or saved
> them myself, but guess that was only in my mind.
> Ron
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 9:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto rule description
>
>
> Here are copies of some of the answers:
>
> From John Schwery: Scott, the nut that looks like a regular nut, that is,
> the
> 6-sided
> nut, is the locking nut. If you will notice on the square nut, on
> one side of that nut is a little notch. That is the side you want to
> face up for measuring. Supposing you want to measure 2 and a quarter
> inches. The end with the threaded hole is where you start. From
> that end, spin the square nut until it lines up with the 4th mark,
> that is, 2 inches and have the notch side up. then, continuing to
> spin in the same direction, count 4 turns, again, with the notch side
> up. Turn the other nut until it locks the square nut in place. You
> should have 32 and a quarter inches. Now, if you want to make that 8
> and a quarter inches, screw in the 6 inch extension.
>
> From Mickey Fixsen: The threaded piece is the primary measuring device. The
> rectangular nut is the
> measuring nut and the hex nut is the locking nut. Here is how to use it.
>
> There is a small hole in one end of the threaded rod. This hole is where
> the
> extensions attach to the threaded rod. Rotate the rectangular nut down to
> the
> end of the threaded rod until it is flush with the end with the small hole
> and
> the notch on one side of the rectangular nut is oriented on the same side
> as
> the raised threads that are 1/2"apart. You have now zeroed the tool.
>
> If you rotate the rectangular nut 8 turns toward the opposite end of the
> threaded rod, you should end up with the edge of the rectangular nut that
> was
> flush with the end of the rod, now flush with the first raised 1/2" raised
> thread. The tool now measures 1/2" fron the end of the rod with the hole in
> it
> to the edge of the rectangular measuring nut. Hence, when this edge of the
> measuring nut is flush with a raised mark, you have a particular
> measurement
> in
> 1/2" increments.
>
> For every full turn of the rectangular measuring nut, you have changed the
> measurement 1/16". For every half turn of the measuring nut, you change the
> measurement by 1/132". For every quarter turn of the measuring nut, you
> change
> the measurement by 1/64".
>
> If for instance you need a measurement of 1 1/4", start by rotating the
> rectangular measuring nut so that the edge closest to the end of the rod
> with
> the hole is flush with the second raised thread fron the end of the rod
> with
> the hole, and the notch on the measuring nut is oriented on the same side
> of
> the tool as the raised threads. Now, rotate the measuring nut 4 full turns
> further away from the end of the rod with the hole and make sure the notch
> is
> on the same side of the tool as the raised threads. There is now 1 1/4"
> from
> the end of the threaded rod with the hole to the edge of the rectangular
> measuring nut.
>
> You can measure up to six inches with the threaded rod alone. This is from
> the
> end of the rod with the hole to the closest edge of the measuring nut. If
> you
> need to measure 6 inches to 12 inches, simply install the 6 inch extension.
> You
> can add extensions as needed to measure up to 42 inches with what you have
> there.
>
> So far, I have been talking about measurements from the end with the hole
> to
> the closest edge of the measuring nut. This is how you would use it for
> outside
> measurements, like across the outside of a box, or from one end of a boart
> to
> a
> given length. For inside measurements, like inside of a box, you measure
> from
> the end of the rod with the hole to the far side of the measuring nut. The
> measuring nut is 1/4" thick and you willl need to remember this with some
> operations.
>
> Just remember that the raised threads are 1/2" marks and that every full
> turn
> of the measuring nut is 1/16". When you get the measuring nut where you
> want
> it, you can tighten the hex shaped nut against it to hold the measurement
> nut
> from turning and changing the measurement.
>
> Like most things, there is a bit of a learning curve with it. Just use it a
> bit
> and get used to how it operates. You will find that it is very accurate. It
> is
> by far the best overall measuring tool for use by the blind.
>
> By the way, the Clickrule works on the same principle as the rotomatic, but
> uses a sliding device instead of a rotating nut, and it has a detent that
> lightly holds the tool every 1/16". The clickrule won't lie as flat on the
> workpiece as the Rotomatic and does not have it's 1/64" accuracy. They both
> have their plusses and minuses. I use them both, depending on the
> particular
> task at hand.
>
> If you have any other specific questions about how to use the Rotomatic,
> just
> ask.
>
> Good luck.
>
> From Dale Leavens:
>
> You have done pretty well at describing the rule.
>
> The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut
> is
> the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if
> you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even
> to
> use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.
>
> You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the
> rectangular nut, this is to help orient it.
>
> You are correct, the half inch marks are where a thread is continued all
> around the face of the milled side of the threaded rod. Each revolution of
> the nut represents one sixteenth of an inch so, half a turn is a 32nd of an
> inch and a quarter turn is a 64th. two complete turns is an eighth of an
> inch and so on.
>
> If you require more than 6 inches then you thread the 6 inch rod bringing
> your measure up as far as 12 and a half inches, add the 12 inch rod or the
> 18 inch rod or any combination there of and you have the lengths you
> require.
>
> What I really like about the measure is that I can set a size off of a plan
> or I can take a measure from a project, lock the nut into place then go to
> my miter saw and pressing the end of the rod against the blade, adjust the
> wood to be cut until it is flush with the nut and cut an exact size. I
> frequently end up with a bit of a bruise on my chin from holding the saw
> down against the board, I do have a bungee cord hanging on the cabinet I
> can
> use to hold the saw down to the wood while I set the distance precisely but
> this takes time and I often don't bother.
>
> I can as easily use it to very accurately set the distance from rip fence
> to
> blade on my table saw and so on.
>
> This is of course not adequate beyond 42 and a half inches although I
> suppose you could get more rod if you need or want it.
>
> I do try to keep a stick or two around here precisely 4 feet long but
> rarely
> do I need it. Even when I raised this addition it was mostly fine to use
> the
> dimensional lumber and/or relative measures with a locking tape measure. I
> used a block to space studs, locking tape measure to determine the actual
> length of span for building the roof trusses, I didn't actually even have
> the roto ruler back then but a folding meter stick ruler.
>
> A tactile ruler though just isn't accurate enough for cabinet work and
> hardly for structural framing. Things like carpenter squares known to be 24
> on the two inch leg and 16 on the inch and a half leg can also be helpful
> in
> frame construction.
>
> The foregoing messages should give you a pretty complete description of the
> Roto-rule.
>
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
> --joining the world of blind wood workers
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description
> of
> > the operation of the roto rule. I would like to talk with them via
> > telephone. If they would e-mail me off list with a phone number and best
> > time to call I would call them. as I have some ideas to discuss.
> > thanks
> > Ron Yearns
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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