Dear Ron:
Your problem sounds like the classic case of a water-logged tank. This
simply refers to the situation where the air in the top of the tank has been
dissipated and There is little left to act as the pressure regulator.
There are two fairly simple ways to test this theory.
One, turn off the electricity to the pump and then drain the tank
completely, and when all is out, close the drain plug and restart the pump.
Two, if you have a clean air source, and the tank is fitted with a valve
stem, as you would find on a automobile tire, then air up the tank to forty
pounds of pressure, while letting the water flow out of the tank. Once all of
the water is out or nearly out, then start using the water. It is not entirely
necessary to turn of the pump for the later procedure, but it would probably be
best.
Some tanks are fitted with a device which is designed to regulate the
amount of air in the tank, and if your tank has one of these devices, it
probably needs to be replaced.
I have found that the bladder tanks offer good service and in general, take
up much less space, as a smaller tank with a bladder will perform as well as a
much larger tank will, with no bladder.
Replacing a tank is a fairly straight forward job for a handy-man, provided
you have the tools and supplies to accomplish the task.
Check out the available styles of tanks at your local plumbing supply store.
Yours Truly,
Clifford Wilson
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron or Susan Denis
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:00 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] maintaining pressure of water from fresh water well
I get my water from a well about 100 feet deep. There is a tank in the
garage into which the water is pumped. It is distributed from that tank
throughout the house. The pressure in that tank had been about 30 pounds
and would decline slowly until a level was reached which triggered a switch
that then signaled the pump in the well to pump more water. The pressure
then rose, the pump turned off, and the pressure then went down slowly until
it reached the point where the pump was again triggered. In the past, the
pump would run for a few seconds and it would take a fair time before it
would go on again. I think it took between 30 seconds and a minute but am
not really sure how long. Now, the pump runs for a second, the pressure
drops very quickly, and the pump engages for another second. With water
running at a reasonable level, the time between the pump turning on is very
brief, maybe 10 seconds at most. The tank is described as an "osmosis" tank
rather than a bladder tank. (I am writing what I've been told as I know
nothing about this at all.) The pressures on the tank now vary from about
40 to 45 pounds for the second the pump is running and drops to about 10
pounds or less when the pump is triggered. All this is happening much
faster than it used to. I was not happy with the last person I had work on
the well--a pump head had to be replaced--because he left the electrical
connections with solder connectors taped and did not replace the plastic box
which had housed these previous to his work. I am not sure whether my
problem lies with the switching at the pump, or the switch at the tank. I'm
not even sure a switch is the problem, but something is preventing the slow
even drawdown and build-up of pressure in the tank. The tank seems to
maintain a good pressure when no water is in use.
I'm looking for suggestions as to where I might learn more about the set-up
from well to faucet that sets and maintains pressure and suggestions as to
where in the system the current problem might reside.
Ron Denis
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