Ray, A couple of tips, some of the new generation compressors use sealed Barings and don't require routine oil checking. I just recently purchased a 180-gal 12-HP Snap-on unit and it has the new generation compressor head. Secondly on my old machine I took the oil plug out, drilled a hole through the center, inserted a 10-24 piece of threaded rod through the hole and double nutted it with a bit of Lock Tight. Then with sighted assistance, I cut off the long end of the rod where it lined up with the low oil level on the sight glass and from there was able to check the oil level myself.
The other cool feature of my new unit is that it is what is know as an upright compressor. This means that the tank stands on end and the motor and compressor head are on top. Now it stands up in a corner rather than taking up valuable floor space. I did have to shoot some 1/2 inch inserts into the floor to bolt its base to but other than that it was a plug and play change out. Regards Larry Stansifer -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 3:14 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Setting Compressed Air Pressures Hi Larry They have a DVD at work which I have not heard yet, on compressed air getting into cuts in your hands and being deadly causing air bubbles in your blood causing death. So fellow handy people be extremely careful with compressed air especially if you have cuts or open wounds on any part of your body. I think an air compressor used correctly is a great advantage in any backyard workshop. For it is the add on tools that you can run using compressed air that makes life so much easier. Yes a good water trap is a must and draining out your vessel on a regular basis is part of regular maintenance. Remember compressors have a filter which should be checked also, and the sight glass which indicates oil level should be checked by a sighted person. Look after your compressor and you will have many years of trouble free usage. Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Stansifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 5:26 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Setting Compressed Air Pressures Ray, The very best water-trap money can buy is an absolute necessity particularly if you are using high speed or impact type air tools. When I was fixing cars professionally, I used to have a water-trap bolted to the side of my roll-away. this did several things for me. I was always assured clean air regardless of how the dealership maintained their compressor. I always had a nice clean air-hose if I had to work inside the vehicle and finally when I moved from one service department to another I only had to change one Amflow connector rather than changing them on each individual tool. Regards Larry Stansifer -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Boyce, Ray Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 6:48 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Setting Compressed Air Pressures Hi Everyone Get some sighted help to set the exact pressure required. Problems setting compressed air pressure via regulator and keeping it there? If you are having a problem trying to set the regulator on your air compressor which is resulting in the pressure in your air lines bouncing back up to maximum, even after you have set the regulator down to working pressure, or "pulsing" when you first allow air through until the air drops to the pressure you have set via your regulator... try this: To set your desired pressure, allow your compressor to fill its tank to maximum pressure, connect your air tool and let air run through it continuously etc. While the air is running through, adjust regulator down to 0 pressure, so basically no air is coming through. Then start adjusting up to your working pressure until it is showing correctly on your second gauge (closest to air tool) and then lock the regulator down at that point. Doing it this way stops the air line filling back up to max pressure and "pulsing" the air flow again when you first allow air to run through again. You can't start at max pressure and then try regulate down, at least it didn't work with the regulator I have on my compressor. I had to go to 0 pressure, then adjust up to desired pressure. This way it keeps the air in the line at the pressure you have selected after you have let go of the trigger. May be obvious to many, but it's something the manuals never tell you. This is also a very useful tip for spray painting and finishing. You can adjust your pressure up from 0 until you see a good flow of air and paint/finish coming from the spray gun. Then just lock the regulator at that pressure. It helps avoid having pressure set too high and giving a poor result and orange peel effect as well! Also, if you bought a budget compressor, the stock regulator on the compressor may be poor quality. Adding a better regulator will give more accurate results and the better quality regulators are generally easier to adjust as well. Other tips - Some regulators have an arrow marked on them to show direction of flow through the regulator. When adding a new regulator, make sure you attach it so that the direction of flow of air from compressor to air tool flows in the same way as the markings on the regulator. - If you are spray painting or spray finishing, add an inline water trap to reduce moisture in the air lines and give you a better finishing result. Excessive moisture in the air line can ruin a finish, especially if you live in warm, humid areas. - If you are setting pressure for a nail gun, you must first use a different air tool (such as an air duster or high pressure spray gun) to set your regulated air pressure first. Obviously, you cannot, and do not want to try and get air running continuously through a loaded nail gun! ************************************************************ ********** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. 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