Hi All
There are 3 main types of algae that are usually found in pool and spa
water:
1. GREEN ALGAE - This type of algae floats in the water or forms on the
sides of the pool or spa as Green Dust. The water can become so cloudy
or turbid
that it is unsafe because you can't see the bottom.
2. YELLOW ALGAE - Also called "Mustard Algae" because of the mustard
color, appears as yellow powder deposits usually on the shady sides of
the walls.
3. BLACK ALGAE - This type of algae also appears as a Blue-Green color
and forms very adhesive dime to quarter size spots on pool and spa
surfaces.
Algae does not form in the presence of adequate levels of free chlorine.
Algae is an indication of poor chlorine level maintenance. However, once
established,
algae may become chlorine resistance in concentrations up to 5 PPM Free
Chlorine.
The best algae prevention is prudent maintenance of free chlorine
levels.
Algaecides can also be used to control algae but they do not destroy the
organic waste nor do they sanitize the pool after an algae bloom.
However, they
can be used to make up for sloppy chlorine maintenance. (See Problem
Solver Topic: Algaecides)

TREATMENT:
Once algae is established you must treat the water with 30 PPM of Free
Chlorine. This kills the algae and destroys the organic waste left
behind.
* Add Sodium Hypochlorite Liquid Chlorine to 30 PPM
Make sure the pump, filter and Chlorinator are working properly. Run
pump continuously for 24 hours and then sweep thoroughly. Do not use the
Pool or Spa
until all chemical levels are back to normal and the water is crystal
clear.

PREVENTION:
Maintain proper levels of chlorine.  Follow Basic Routine Maintenance
Schedule.
Algae Problems

ALGAECIDES

Algae does not form in the presence of adequate levels of free chlorine.
Algae is an indication of poor chlorine level maintenance. However, once
established,
algae may become chlorine resistance in concentrations up to 5 PPM Free
Chlorine.
The best algae prevention is prudent maintenance of free chlorine
levels. Once algae is established you must treat the water with 30 PPM
of Free Chlorine
(Triple-Shock). This kills the algae AND destroys the organic waste left
behind.

Algaecides can be used to make up for sloppy chlorine level maintenance.

There are 3 main types of Algaecides:
Block quote start

1. Quats - Short for "Quaternary Ammonium Chloride Salts" or just "QAC"
contain between 5% and 10% active ingredients. These are the least
expensive algaecides
but they usually cause foaming of the water.  This can especially be a
big problem in a spa where the jets mix air and water.
2. PolyQuats - These usually contain between 30% and 60% active
ingredients (Poly[oxyethylene(dimethyliminio)
ethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene]dichloride).
PolyQuats are generally more effective and less foaming than Quats but
they are much more expensive.
3. Copper Salts - These are very effective algaecides for ponds but
SHOULD NOT be used in pools and spas because they stain surfaces.  READ
THE FINE PRINT
ON THESE PRODUCTS!
Chlorine Odor

Free Chlorine at levels up to about 15 PPM has no detectable taste or
odor and it causes no irritation. Free Chorine that reacts with ammonia,
bacteria
and other waste products is converted into Combined Chlorine or
Chloramines. Ammonia is a normal by product of the body from waste and
sweat.
Combined Chlorine has a strong offensive smell which is what most people
smell when they complain of a strong chlorine odor. Combined Chlorine
also causes
eye and skin irritation.
Combined Chlorine can be eliminated by adding enough chlorine product to
bring the free chlorine up to 10 times the combined chlorine level. This
is referred
to as "Breakpoint Chlorination" or "Superchlorination".

There should be NO Combined Chlorine in your water!  Total Chlorine
minus Free Chlorine equals Combined Chlorine.

TREATMENT:
Test both the Free and Total Chlorine levels. Add enough chlorine to
bring the Free Chlorine up to 10 times the Combined Chlorine.  Example:
If the Combined
Chlorine is 0.2 PPM, you will have to add 20 PPM Free Chlorine.
If you don't test for both Free and Total Chlorine, just do a normal
Shock treatment of 10 PPM but you take a chance if the Combined Chlorine
is over 0.1
PPM.
Chlorine Test Turns Orange

The chlorine is too high for the range of your test kit.
Discontinue adding chlorine and don't use the Pool or Spa until the
level returns to normal.
If you need to know the actual amount of chlorine, try diluting the test
sample with distilled water.
For example: Mix 1 part of test sample water with 4 parts of distilled
water. Test the sample again and multiply the results by 5.
Clogged Filter

PAPER OR CLOTH FILTER CARTRIDGE TYPE:
These will have to be removed and washed. If this doesn't help you can
try soaking the filter overnight is Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) available
from hardware
stores.
If all else fails you will have to buy a new filter cartridge.
SAND FILTER:
Try backwashing the filter first. If this doesn't help, you may have to
take the filter apart and inspect it for a clogged membrane. You will
have to replace
the sand and possibly the membrane. See a pool professional.
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (DE) FILTER:
Try backwashing the filter first. After you backwash, you'll have to add
DE powder in the amount recommended by the manufacturer. If this doesn't
help,
you have may have a problem with filter membrane. See a pool
professional.
Cloudy, Smoky or Hazy Water

This can be caused from a number of problems. Here are some
possibilities:
- Clogged Filter or Poor Circulation
- Algae
- Excessive Organic Waste
- Low Sanitizer
- Improper Water Balance

TREATMENT:
1.) Inspect pump and filter to verify it's working properly.

2.) Test all water factors and balance water.

3.) Double-shock pool by bringing free chlorine up to 20 PPM
(Double-Shock).  Don't use the pool or spa until the chlorine level
returns to normal.

4.) Maintain proper levels of chlorine. Verify that the chlorinator is
working properly.

5.) If algae is a problem, see Algae Problems

6.) Follow Basic Routine Maintenance Schedule
Corrosion

Corrosive water causes etching of plaster pitting of concrete and
dissolving of grouting. Plastic liners wrinkle and crack. Pump and
filter equipment corrode,
rust and eventually freeze up or leak or both.
This is caused by improper water balance.

TREATMENT:
Test all water factors and balance water before it is too late.  See
Problem: Water Balance/Saturation Index.
Eye and Skin Irritation

This can be caused from a number of problems. Here are some
possibilities:
- PH Too Low or Too High
- Improper Water Balance
- Combined Chlorine
- Excessive Organic Waste
- High Total Dissolved Solids
- Algaecides
- Algae
- High Chlorine (above 10 PPM)
TREATMENT:
1.) Test all water factors.  Balance water.  See Water
Balance/Saturation Index.  If water tests Perfect and looks Perfect,
shock pool to 10 PPM free chlorine
to remove any traces of organic waste.
2.) Spas should be drained periodically due to build up of chemical
additions and organic matter.
High Chlorine Consumption

This can be caused by a number of things. Here are some factors which
contribute to high chlorine consumption:
- High bather load
- High water temperature
- Use of Un-Stabilized Chlorines or Stabilizer Level is Low
- Improper Water Balance
- High pH

TREATMENT:
1.) Test water for all factors (including stabilizer/conditioner) and
adjust to balance the water

2.) If the pool is exposed to sunlight, use a stabilized chlorine or add
stabilizer/conditioner (cyanuric acid).  Initially add enough to bring
the concentration
up to 30 PPM.

3.) Verify that the chlorinator is working properly.  The proper level
of chlorine is 1 to 3 PPM for pools, 3 to 5 PPM for spas.
High Chlorine Reading

This can be caused by a number of things. Here are some factors which
contribute to this:
- Pool recently Shocked (this will dissipate by itself)
- Automatic Chlorinator Needs Adjustment
- Reduced Bather Load (lower usage requires less sanitizer)
- Reduced Water Temperature (lower temperatures require less chlorine)

TREATMENT:
Adjust the automatic chlorinator. The chlorine level will reduce by
itself.  Don't use the Pool or Spa until the chlorine level is back to
normal.
pH Bounce

pH is a measure of the amount of acid or base in solution. Adding acid
lowers the pH. Adding base raises the pH. Adding too much acid one day
may require
adding base or pH Down the next day. This up and down cycle is referred
to as "pH Bounce"
Total Alkalinity buffers or absorbs both acid and base in pool water
preventing "pH Bounce". Therefore, increasing the amount of Total
Alkalinity can improve
this situation.  The exact amount of Total Alkalinity depends on the
Saturation Index, type of sanitizer, temperature, whether it's a spa or
pool, stabilizer
and other factors but normally it should be somewhere between 60 and 180
PPM

TREATMENT:
Test all water factors and balance water. See Water Balance/Saturation
Index.
Pink Slime

Pink Slime is a form of bacteria usually brought into the pool or spa by
another swimmer who picked it up around a lake or ocean.

TREATMENT:
Shock the water using double the normal shock rate of chlorine (20 PPM
free chlorine).
Salty Taste

This is normally caused by a high concentration of Total Dissolved
Solids (TDS). TDS is an accumulation over time of all of the chemicals
you've added to
the water. Generally, TDS should be kept below 2,000. You can have this
tested at a pool supply company.
Spas should be totally drained and refilled as recommended by the
Personalized Maintenance Schedule to prevent a build up of TDS.
TREATMENT:
Drain water and refill with fresh water of lower TDS. You can reduce the
TDS to half by draining 1/2 of the water and refilling with fresh water.
Sudsy or Foamy Water

This can be caused by a number of things. Here are some factors which
contribute to this:
- Algaecides
- High Total Dissolved Solids
- Soap Residue in Swimmers Clothing
- Improper Water Balance
TREATMENT:
1.) Test all water factors and balance water as necessary.
2.) If using algaecides, switch to a non-foaming type.
3.) Spas should be drained periodically based on bather load
Scale Formation

A minimal amount of scale formation that looks like a fine dust is OK.
Excess Scale forming on pool surfaces or equipment is an indication of
too high a
Saturation Index (greater than 0.5). This is caused from improper water
balance.  See Problem Water Balance/Saturation Index.

TREATMENT:
1.) Test water factors and balance water before it is too late.  See
Problem Water Balance/Saturation Index.
2.) If all factors test Perfect, see a pool professional about Scale
Inhibitors.
Stains

Water which causes stains on the pool, spa or metal surfaces is caused
by either improper water balance or heavy metals in solution.
Metals can come from the source water. Metals such as manganese and iron
are common is some water supplies. DO NOT USE COPPER ALGAECIDES as they
are also
a source of metal staining.
TREATMENT:
1.) Test water and input all results into the main screen Total
Alkalinity adjustments will be recommended if needed.
2.) See a pool professional about Stain Inhibitors or Sequestering
Agents.
3.) See a pool professional about draining the water and Acid Washing
the surfaces to remove stains.
.



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