You've heard it said many times, having the right tools makes any job
easier. Before you start, there are some basic tools and equipment
you'll need. These
tools may change depending on the type of job, but generally, the
following tools are required when building a masonry wall:

Trowel

There are different kinds and sizes of trowels. The blade should be made
of forged steel to last longer. Handles are generally made of plastic or
wood.
Blades vary from 9 to 12 inches in length and 4 to 7 inches in width.
The larger trowels are used for spreading mortar. A variety of smaller
trowels are
used repairing old mortar joints and scraping off excess mortar. A
trowel that you
London and Philadelpia Trowelsfeel comfortable with can be used to do
all of the above, however, you will need a separate tool to finish the
mortar joints.

The two most popular trowels are called the Philadelphia trowel and the
London trowel.

Holding the Trowel

Learning to hold the trowel correctly is important and will make the job
easier. Gripping the handle with four fingers and putting the thumb on
top of the
metal band (ferrule) on the handle is how most masons hold a trowel.

Loading the Trowel

The next step is learning how to load a trowel with mortar. Some people
like to fill the trowel by cutting mortar from the top. Others will load
the trowel
with mortar by cutting from the front, and still others will load by
cutting mortar from the side. Your comfort level will dictate your
style. Once the
trowel is loaded, you must settle the mortar on the trowel by snapping
your wrist. This keeps the mortar from slipping off the trowel,
especially when
you are buttering head joints. The head joint is the joint that runs up
and down the block. The bed joint is the one that runs along the top of
the block.
The bed joint is horizontal, the head joint is vertical.

When laying the mortar on the block, line the mortar side of the trowel
on the side of the block where you want the mortar. In one quick motion,
slide the
trowel down, using the side of the block as a guide (the trowel should
lightly scrape along the side of the block during your downward motion).

Mason's Hammer

This tool is used for hammering nails and for splitting block or brick
with the other end. One end is square and flat and is used like a
hammer. The other
Masons Hammerend is sharp, like a small chisel. The sharp chisel-end is
used to make a cutting line around the masonry to be split. Light blows
with the
chisel-end all the way around the block or brick and then a sharp blow
with the hammer end will give a clean cut. You might need to practice on
a few pieces
before it all comes together.

The chisel-end is then used to take off any burrs or pieces which have
not broken off cleanly. The mason's hammer can become dangerous if not
properly used.
Chips can fly off the masonry being cut and injure the face and eyes.
ALWAYS USE GOGGLES WHEN SPLITTING MASONRY.

Blocking Chisel

If there are more than just a few blocks or bricks that need to be
split, and very clean cuts are required, then a blocking chisel should
be used. This
is a
Blocking Chiselheavier, wider chisel, up to 8 inches wide. It comes in a
variety of sizes and shapes. These chisels are made of steel and are
used by holding
the small end and striking the end with a heavy mashing hammer, mallet
or sledge hammer. This will give a clean cut with usually just one blow.

Mashing Hammer

Mashing HammerA mashing hammer is used to strike the chisel when cutting
block. It is not recommended to use a mason's hammer to strike the
chisel since
the tempered steel might split and a piece fly off. A mashing hammer has
two striking ends and will weigh from two to four pounds.

Masonry Power Saw

If you are cutting large quantities of block or brick, you may want to
use a masonry power saw. The two basic types of
Mason using Masonry  Power Sawsaws are either hand-held or table saws.
The hand-held saws usually have a silicon blade about 6 or 7" high and,
therefore,
will not give a clean cut all the way through an 8" block. But a
hand-held saw is much quicker and gives a cleaner cut rather than
working with a chisel
and hammer.

A table-mounted saw with an electric motor is always used when there is
a lot of cutting. Blades are normally 14 to 20" high and will cut
through any kind
of masonry block or brick, especially if the blade is made of industrial
diamonds.

All masonry saws can be very dangerous. Safety goggles are a must and
rings and jewelry should not be worn. The same is true for any
loose-fitting clothing.
If an industrial diamond blade is used, the blade must be cooled with
water during cutting to keep the blade from shattering.

A dry cut can be made with a silicon-carbide blade, bonded with
reinforced mesh. However, dry cutting throws out a lot of dust and a
dust mask or respirator
must be worn.

Levels

Next to the trowel, the level is the second most important tool to have
when building a wall. A good level is lightweight and absolutely
straight. The better
levels are called spirit levels because they contain alcohol in the
vials instead of oil. Alcohol is more accurate.

Mason using LevelThe purpose of the level is to keep the work you are
doing plumb (even up and down, or vertically) and even straight across,
or horizontally.
A good level usually has 6 vials, two in the center, two at each end.
The bubble must line up between the two red or black lines in order to
be straight
or level. If you lay more than one block at a time, you might want to
get a level that is at least 36" long. Some levels are available up to
48", although
mostly used by professional masons. Since most block is 16" long, you'll
want a level between 18" and 24".

Maon's Line

In order to have an easier time laying a straight wall, a mason's line
is recommended. It is recommended that you use a nylon or dacron line,
stretched
between two corners (and anchored at the corners) of the wall you are
building. By laying the line, you won't
Mason Using Mason's Linehave to depend on your level as often, speeding
up the job. A mason's line will let you build walls without bulges or
hollows. A
mason's line is placed very close to the block you are laying, but with
enough room to still permit you to swipe off the excess mortar without
disturbing
the line.

Steel Square

When laying your wall, you'll want to make sure your corners are at a 90
degree angle, assuming you're building a square or rectangle wall. A
large steel
square, usually 24" long,
Mason Using Steel Squareshould be used for marking off corners when
laying out the job, and for checking corners as the wall is being built.
If you are
building a room, garage, etc., you'll also want to use a 12" square for
checking window and door openings. If these openings are not square, the
windows
and door may not fit.

Jointers

A jointer is used to finish a mortar joint after it becomes hard enough
so that a finger print will show in the mortar upon being pressed.
Jointers come
in many sizes and shapes, but typically, for blocks, you'll use a sled
jointer to create a 3/8th inch joint for long horizontal joints.
Vertical or head
joints, which are only 8" high, use a smaller jointer. Jointers are
shaped to give a variety of indentations, depending on your preference.
The most popular
are
Joinerthe V joint and the half-rounded joint (concave joint). These two
kinds of joints help shed water better than any other kind of joint.

If you are using clay brick, or other brick products, you will want to
use a jointer made
specifically for brick.

Chalk Line

A chalk line comes in a metal or plastic case, with a cotton line coming
out of one end. As the line is pulled out, it passes
Chalk Line through a fine chalk powder, usually blue or red. When this
line is stretched between two points and snapped, it will leave an
imprint on the
surface being snapped. A chalk line is used for laying out a block wall
on a concrete foundation to get the alignment correct.

Brushes

After a wall is built, there may be some mortar stains or powder residue
on the wall. Before cleaning solutions are used, these marks can often
be
Brush for Cleaning Light Residue Off of Block Wallsbrushed off the
surface. A variety of brushes are available. Powder residue can usually
be brushed off
with a medium soft bristle brush. A light accumulation of mortar could
be brushed with a stiff bristle brush. If not,
an abrasive stone or piece of same block or brick after testing in an
obscure area may do the job.

Stains that don't respond to brushing should be cleaned with a special
solution and brushing with a stiff bristle brush. Watering the wall down
before and
after the wash and brushing is necessary so that the solution isn't
absorbed into the wall before it can work.

Mixing Tools

On small jobs, it probably won't pay to used a powered mortar mixer.
Several tools are needed to mix mortar. A regular shovel with a square
edge will be
needed to proportion materials. A large hoe with two holes in the blade
is used to actually mix the mortar sand, masonry cement and water. The
holes in
the blade make it easier to pull the hoe through the mix and to break up
the lumps.

You will also need either a mortar box or wheel barrow to mix your
mortar in, and a water bucket to measure and add water to the mix.
Mortar boxes are usually
made of heavy gauge plastic or steel. Once the mortar is mixed, transfer
the mortar to a mortar board or hawk, from which you will work when
applying the
mortar.


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