A guy named Dan Greenfield developed the horn technology for the USnavy, 
that would later be seen by Dr. Bose and the man who started Klipshe 
speakers.
I had a pair of the Klipshe Cornwalls at 98db and yeah, *horns get loud!
The Bose 901's were the best they ever made, but were not more than upper 
mid-fi. However, I have to say you can't find a system for under $2K new 
that beats the Bose Wave Radio.

Now a days, there are 100 and slightly higher, speakers systems that are 
even a single driver in a huge cabinete, faced with a horn; that are used 
by 7 watt ultra high end tube guys. They get a good volume so I'm told.
Bud Fried made some of the best transmission line woofer cabinetes ever. 
Dan Greenfieled started the "Folded Horn" that could phase align the front 
and back wave of a speaker 180dG out of phase and get huge (though 
slightly tubby) bass out of a 4-6 inch woofer. What he did with 8's made 
the way for the Klipshorn..

Then there are ribbons, diapolito's , electrostatics, and planiers. Heehee


On Fri, 24 Aug 2007, Cy Selfridge wrote:

> Oh my, this does bring back some real memories indeed.
> In the late 60s and early/mid 70s there was a real push for the *ultimate*
> sounding system.
> There was the early efforts on 4 track and so on. There was a real push for
> very, very, very good sound from the speaker system. Altec Lansing and Bose
> were in a shoot out for absolutely outstanding sound.
> I had a set of Altec Voice of the Theatre speakers and they were truly
> unbeatable! At 15 watts of power you could not stay in the same room with
> them and they could handle 150 watts max.
> The old Bose 901 speaker system needed a minimum of 150 watts to just power
> up but it sure did have a lot of sound when it did finally get enough
> power...
> Anyway, my Voice of the Theatre speakers were just about 3 foot by 3 foot by
> about 4 foot high and they looked exactly like an old fashioned evaporative
> water cooler.
> I was so proud of those speakers - until - my wife came and saw them. She
> wanted to know why on earth I had the water coolers in the living room and
> why on earth did I pick that awful gray color. (LOL)
> I had also arranged the furniture so that the sound would not be compromised
> and that, I think, was my undoing! By the time dear little wife fixed the
> furniture you could not tell the difference between my wonderful Altec
> speakers and the standard Radio Shack jobbies except that I did have a lot
> more clear bass.
> I read an article which said that spending thousands of bucks on a stereo
> system made no sense unless you really did have a dedicated room for it;. If
> your system could reproduce a 30,000 hertz sound that sound would be
> completely muffled by the couch and easy chairs which were placed in front
> of the speakers by your True Love. (ROFL)
> Anyway, I have two large Radio Shack speakers which are no longer available
> but I use my little 5.1 computer speaker system because that is where all of
> my music is now stored...
> Oh well, those were the days indeed...
> Cy, the ancient Okie...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 7:21 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Home Speaker Frequently Asked Questions
>
> Very good article.
> The one thing they failed to mention; was that there is a trade off when
> going satelite/sub if done as mentioned.
> The reason the save space is that there is only one sub. So you are saving
> the space of the other box entirely. The trade of is that if the bass is
> recorded with any stereo separation, (concert DVD's, and true 7.1
> surround) the effect is deminished to having bass project from one space.
> Also, when using the HT for music, (when one doesn't have a dedicated room
> for HT or for music) the stereo effect utilized by producers as far back
> stereo itself, (especially in the 60's, 70's though *not exclusively) bass
> separation will be lost.
> Thanks for this good article.
>
> On Mon, 27 Aug 2007, Ray Boyce
> wrote:
>
>> Q: What's the difference between a subwoofer/satellite system and a
>> conventional speaker system?
>>
>> A: A subwoofer/satellite system is a room-friendly, space-efficient
>> alternative to the conventional stereo speaker system. Sub/sat systems
>> use small enclosures for the tweeters and midranges, and a separate,
>> specially designed box to house the subwoofer.
>>
>> Subwoofer/satellite systems are very popular because they save space,
>> blend into the room's decor, and offer full, rich sound. The bass
>> module can be placed almost anywhere because it produces only low,
>> non-directional bass frequencies.
>>
>> Q: Can I hook up a powered subwoofer if my receiver doesn't have a
>> subwoofer output?
>>
>> A: Absolutely. Most
>> powered subwoofers
>> have speaker-level connections for use with virtually any receiver.
>> Just run one set of speaker cables from your receiver's main left and
>> right speaker outputs to the subwoofer, then another from the
>> subwoofer to your main left and right speakers (you'll need an extra pair
> of speaker cables).
>>
>> Q: If I buy a set of large floor-standing speakers, will I
> still need a
>> powered subwoofer? What about speakers with their own built-in powered
> subs?
>>
>> A: The answer to the first question is going to depend on individual
> taste.
>> If your main interest is home theater, and you enjoy re-creating the
>> body-slamming bass that you experience in the movie theater, it's
>> difficult to achieve without a powered subwoofer. Also, a powered
>> subwoofer gives you many more placement options.
>>
>> A pair of floor-standing speakers with built-in powered subwoofers
>> will usually deliver plenty of deep, room-filling bass.
>>
>> Q: Can a pair of smaller speakers and a powered sub really sound as
>> good as a pair of larger speakers?
>>
>> A: Definitely. In fact, there are some folks who prefer a
>> bookshelf/sub system to tower speakers. You must be sure to choose
>> bookshelf speakers and a subwoofer that blend well together, and you
>> may need to tweak the crossover to get the ideal sound. But a
>> bookshelf/sub system can deliver impressive, full-range sound without
>> taking up too much space in your home.
>>
>> Q: What should I know about my speakers' impedance?
>>
>> A: A speaker's impedance rating refers to the amount of electrical
>> resistance it presents against current flowing from your amplifier or
>> receiver's powered outputs. Though impedance actually fluctuates as
>> the speaker reproduces different frequencies, manufacturers usually
>> publish a single, average figure, known as nominal impedance.
>>
>> Most home speakers have a nominal impedance rating of 8 ohms;
>> likewise, practically all home A/V receivers are designed to be stable
>> when pushing an 8-ohm load. There are a number of higher-end receivers
>> that are capable of handling a 4-ohm load (if you're not sure about
>> your receiver, check the specs in your owner's manual). Speakers with
>> significantly lower impedance (4 ohms or
>> less) may cause problems with 8-ohm receivers by asking them to
>> deliver more current than they are capable of producing.
>>
>> When you drop from an 8-ohm to a 4-ohm load, you cut the electrical
>> resistance in half, which usually causes your receiver to increase its
>> total power output.
>> Some people are tempted to mate their 8-ohm receivers with 4-ohm
>> speakers, in order to get more wattage. It's wise to avoid this
>> temptation, since it can lead to greater distortion, and cause the
>> receiver to run hot or activate its protection circuitry.
>>
>> Q: Can I use my receiver's "B" speaker connections for surround speakers?
>>
>> A: Definitely not. Your receiver's "B" speaker outputs provide the
>> exact same stereo signal as its "A" speaker outputs. (The "B" speaker
>> outputs are useful for connecting a second pair of stereo speakers for
>> some other area in or around the house.)
>>
>> Surround sound, on the other hand, consists of multiple audio channels
>> which carry different portions of a soundtrack. These channels must be
>> decoded by a multichannel surround sound processor. Fortunately,
>> you'll find a great selection of home theater receivers on
>> crutchfield.com which deliver exciting surround sound at modest prices.
>>
>> Q: What surround speakers should I get for my home theater system? Do
>> I need special speakers?
>>
>> A: Surround speakers are responsible for creating wide, diffuse
>> effects around you (rainfall, for example), while occasionally giving
>> directionality to distinct sounds (like jet fighters passing
>> overhead). You do not need special speakers for your surrounds, but
>> with Dolby® Digital systems, surround information is in full-bandwidth
>> stereo, so it's important to go with surrounds that have enough punch
>> to handle the job.
>>
>> While most people use regular speakers as their surrounds, some use
>> special speakers designed specifically for surround sound known as
> "Dipole/Bipole"
>> or
>> "Solid/Diffuse." Each of these speakers has two sets of drivers, with
>> a switch that lets you select dipole mode (out of phase) or bipole
>> mode (in phase).
>> If you're mounting the speakers on the side walls in line with your
>> listening position, the dipole mode will create a diffuse, ambient
>> soundfield. If you're placing them behind your position, the bipole
>> mode fires the drivers in phase to flood your room with surround
>> sound.
>>
>> Dipole mode creates a diffuse, ambient soundfield when the speakers
>> are placed on the side walls.
>>
>> Bipole mode fills your room with surround sound when the speakers are
>> placed on the rear wall.
>>
>> And remember, it's vital that your speakers work well together in a
>> home theater setup. If all your speakers are voice-matched, you will
>> experience a seamless surround sound effect. Sounds will move smoothly
>> around your living room just like they do in a movie theater. If your
>> budget and cosmetic preferences allow, try to go with surround
>> speakers from the same "family" as your front speakers.
>>
>> Q: My receiver puts out 100 watts per channel - should I get a speaker
>> with the same power rating?
>>
>> A: Unless you plan to run your speakers at extremely high volume
>> levels, there is no need to worry if they're rated to handle less
>> power than your receiver delivers. The power rating most manufacturers
>> assign to a speaker is the amount of continuous (RMS) power the
>> speaker can absorb without damage.
>>
>> Receivers and amplifiers are also usually rated for continuous power,
>> so as long as the ratings are fairly close, you shouldn't encounter
>> any power-handling problems. Actually, an amp or receiver with a high
>> power rating is often safer for speakers than one with a low power
>> rating. A low-powered model may "clip"
>> and produce distortion at high volume levels, which is a common cause
>> of tweeter damage.
>>
>> Q: Can I use my TV's speakers for the center channel in my home theater?
>>
>> A: Well, yes, as long as your TV has separate audio/video inputs, and
>> your receiver has a preamp-level center channel output. However, we
>> don't recommend this approach.
>>
>> In Dolby® Pro Logic® and Dolby Digital soundtracks, nearly all the
>> dialogue and on-screen sound effects come through the center channel.
>> So you want an accurate speaker that's capable of reproducing a full-range
> of frequencies.
>>
>> You'll add to the realism of your system if you choose a speaker that
>> matches well with your left and right speakers. Otherwise, you may
>> hear a distractingly audible "hand off" as the sound moves between
>> your front three speakers.
>> Most speaker companies offer center speakers that are voice-matched to
>> blend in well with their other models.
>>
>> Q: What is the difference between a 2-way and a 3-way speaker?
>>
>> A: A 2-way speaker's crossover splits the frequency band into two ranges:
>> bass frequencies go to the woofer, and treble frequencies go to the
> tweeter.
>> In
>> a 3-way system, the frequency band is divided into three ranges. The
>> middle frequencies are sent to a third driver commonly referred to as the
> midrange.
>>
>> Q: What does a speaker's sensitivity rating tell me, and why is it
>> important?
>>
>> A: A speaker's sensitivity rating (sometimes called efficiency) tells
>> you how effectively the speaker converts power into sound. The higher
>> the number, the more efficient the speaker, and the louder the sound
>> it creates with a given input signal.
>>
>> An efficient speaker helps you maximize your available wattage.
>> Believe it or not, a 3 dB increase in speaker sensitivity produces the
>> same audible increase in volume as doubling your amplifier power. So
>> when you're shopping for speakers, it always pays to check the
>> sensitivity spec - especially if you have a lower-powered receiver or
>> amp.
>>
>> It's a common myth that larger speakers require tons of power and
>> smaller speakers can get by with minimal wattage. In fact, the reverse
>> may be true - some of the smallest speakers we sell are actually
>> pretty power hungry, while larger speakers can be quite efficient.
>>
>> Q: Does "bass reflex" mean a speaker puts out a lot of bass?
>>
>> A: Not exactly. Unlike an acoustic suspension speaker that uses a
>> completely sealed, airtight enclosure, a bass reflex speaker includes
>> a tuned port hole in the cabinet to produce more bass output in a specific
> frequency range.
>>
>> Bass reflex speakers are highly efficient, and will usually play
>> louder than acoustic suspension speakers when driven with the same
>> amount of amplifier power. However, they may sacrifice some bass
>> accuracy in exchange for the added bass output.
>>
>> Q: How do I know if I should use speaker stands? If so, which size?
>> And what exactly will spikes do for me?
>>
>> A: Because midrange and treble frequencies are very directional, your
>> speakers will sound their best when your ears are at the same height
>> as the tweeter.
>> Floor-standing speakers are designed to be used without speaker
>> stands, but
>> small- to medium-sized speakers will most likely need stands to raise
>> the tweeters to ear level.
>>
>> You'll experience better directional accuracy and hear more treble
>> when your speakers' tweeters are at ear-level. Small- or medium-sized
>> speakers may require stands to raise the tweeters to the optimum
>> height.
>>
>> It's worth taking the time to measure to determine what size stand
>> will work best with your speakers. Or you can simply call one of our
>> Product Advisors at 1-888-955-6000 for an appropriate recommendation.
>>
>> If you have a carpeted floor, and your speakers or speaker stands
>> accept spikes on the bottom, installing them may improve your sound.
>> Spikes often "tighten up" bass response by reducing sound-muddying
>> vibrations. Spikes also provide greater stability on carpeted floors.
>>
>> Q: I've never heard these speakers before - what happens if I don't
>> like them?
>>
>> A: If you're not fully satisfied with your new speakers, you can
>> return them within 30 days and try a different pair, or get a refund.
>> That's the beauty of our return policy.
>>
>> You can choose to audition the speakers in a local store before you
>> order them, but keep in mind that you still won't know how they're
>> going to sound in your home. The size and shape of your listening
>> room, the placement of furniture, rugs, and draperies, and your other
>> A/V components all play a major role in determining how your speakers
>> will ultimately sound.
>>
>> Q: Where in the room should I put my subwoofer?
>>
>> A: The best answer is to experiment. You can start by placing your
>> subwoofer in a corner reasonably close to either your
>> listening/viewing position or the front speakers - the surrounding
>> walls will automatically boost low-frequency output. Many audio/video
>> enthusiasts are very satisfied with this solution.
>>
>> Another technique is to temporarily place the subwoofer in your
>> listening spot, play some music, walk around the room, and listen. The
>> spot that sounds best is where you should put the subwoofer.
>>
>> Q: I've heard that to get the best sound from my speakers, they need
>> to be "in phase" when I hook them up. What does that mean?
>>
>> A: When your stereo speakers are connected in phase, the drivers of
>> the left and right speaker move in and out at the same time. When
>> they're out of phase, the drivers of the left speaker move in, while
>> those of the right move out.
>> If your speakers have removable grilles, you can pop them off and
>> actually see this.
>>
>> Stereo speakers should always be connected in phase. Out-of-phase
>> speakers sound "not quite right" - imaging is vague and there isn't as
> much bass.
>>
>> To hook up your speakers in phase, just make sure that your positive
>> receiver (or amplifier) terminals are connected to the positive
>> speaker terminals, and your negative receiver terminals are connected
>> to your negative speaker terminals.
>>
>> It helps to pay attention to the markings on the wire - look for
>> print, a stripe, or a rib that may be molded into the wire's jacket.
>> If you find that your speakers are out of phase, don't worry, it's
>> easy to fix. Just switch the positive and negative leads at one of
>> your speakers (not both).
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
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>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
>
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 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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